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Found 3 results

  1. 2006 GMC Savana was not starting - no response to key, and after replacing ignition switch, it fires right up...but dies immediately, will not run. It acts like there is some other switch or security system, or ?
  2. Hi new to the site, read a forum where wrencher answered a question and I was impressed. I an a highly trained technician but not on automobiles, I do enjoy the hobbie of trying to fix my own junk. Here is my issue I purchased a Tahoe with a known problem, I was told it needed a new engine, I have owned several 5.3 engines in trucks and found it hard to believe that this engine was bad. These engines seem to be bullet proof to me. I can start the engine and it almost like it has such bad misfires it wont run, the idle is so rough it shakes impossible to drive even though I drove it on the trailer to haul it home. list of what I have done. Cleaned fuel injectors appear to be fine, checked fuel pressure its great, checked all coils and wires and plugs all is well. One thing I found was someone had replaced the passenger side catalytic converter. I wanted to check to see if possible I had an exhaust issue so when I went under I was surprised to find Im guessing when the new converter was installed the cross member bolts were removed and when they were replaced the 2nd O/2 Sensor on the drivers side wires had been caught between the nut and frame and all 4 wire were grounded to the frame. I thought I had found the problem or at least in the right location after undoing and fixing the wires back ( havent put the sensor on yet I need to get one) so I just fixed the wire back just to try and it still has the same problem. one question is maybe due to the short could it have ruined the PCM?? Any ideas please help.
  3. My '99 Chevy K1500 5.7 L Vortec has problem starting when it sits overnight in very damp, foggy type weather. It tries to start after cranking for longer than usual but will only partially turn over & mostly just sputter & chug a little. I suspected ignition problem like moisture under distributor cap Or coil but found that if I spray starting fluid or dump gas in throttle body it starts but dies as soon as it burns what was added. As long as I keep slowly pouring fuel in the TB it will keep running. The moisture is a definite factor because the only way I can get it to stay running is to dry it out with a small electric heater or heat gun. It only does this when the weather is just the right sort of condition, damp & foggy where when you lift the hood everything on the motor is damp with condensation. Once it is dried out it runs perfectly smooth with no missing. I can drive 100 miles down the interstate in the pouring rain & it will perform perfect with great acceleration/ throttle response Etc. Once I get it dried out & it starts on its' own, I can turn it off & on & it starts right up just like normal, no problem. Is there some electrical component on the fuel system that could be shorting out when damp weather conditions are present? It seems like it has to be something electrical in the fuel system that would be affected by moisture. I would appreciate anyones help with this.
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