OK, So I have a 2012 2500hd with 23K on it. I purchased it used with 7000 miles, and for over a year I have had intermittant time when I go out to start the truck and the battery is dead. I charge/jump it and it will be fine. Last year (12/15/2014) I replace the OEM battery, thinking maybe the original one was toast. The prior owner had a plow on it which was removed prior to me getting the truck, and I was thinking maybe that large current load toasted the battery (truck does have the plow prep-package). Well last week battery dies, I jump start it, drive it for the day, park it. Next morning bam dead again. So I bring the battery back and get a replacement under warranty. So out of curiosity, I place a meter in the accessory outlet, and the two times I have driven it, I have measured 14.7 - 15.5V while running it has never gone below that. I understand these charging systems are computer controlled, and it is supposed to adjust the alternator output based on what the computer determines the battery charge state. I am wondering could my alternator be bad? That just seems way to high from all my reading on how lead-acid battery are supposed to be charged. Thanks
My 2012 truck has the 3.73 axle ratio. I want to step it up to the 4.10 to make my towing experience better, basically I want it to actually hit 6th gear towing my 6500lbs travel trailer. Anyone have an idea of what this would cost, and how this will effect my warranty? ( Got the truck certified used, so I have a bit less than 1 year remaining on the factory and another two for the certified used). Also would I be better off having a dealer do this or try to find a shop. I know the truck will need to be reprogrammed so that will have to be done at the dealer.
OK so I got the mirrors out and took some photos. Couple of things... the 2012s do not have the signal in the glass. Some how I thought they did, but I only seen them on my truck when I test drove it and had them swap on the towing mirrors. The mirror from the 2004 also does not have the signal in the glass. Also there is some glue on it from a stick on convex mirror that was on it at one time. Photos are here: http://s768.photobucket.com/user/k2lrv/library/Mirrors%20For%20Sale Would like these to go soon, so I will entertain reasonable offers.
I have the following GM mirrors forsale: Passenger Side non-towing mirror from a 2006 Silverado 2500HD. This a power fold mirror with signa and heat. $40 plus shipping cost Passenger Side non-towing mirror from a 2004 Sierra 2500HD. This is a basic power tilt olny, I forgot if it has the signal in it or not. Will post for sure when I post photos later today. $25 Plus shipping cost. Also have Passenger and Drivers Power/Signal/Heated non-towing mirrors from a 2012 Silverado 2500HD. $60 plus shipping each or $100 + shipping for both. All are OEM take offs. Photos posted later today.
Anyone know if the rectangular steps from the 2014+ trucks will work on a 2012 HD? I am going to replace the 3" tubes with something larger, and I like the square steps, if not I guess I will go with the 6" ovals. Although looking at the MRPS of the rectangular ones is a bit steep.
Obviously I did a search, and none of them were were either a) for the NNBS , b) a 2500 or c) had the GM part numbers. Any way I think I have it figured out now. Thanks. Looks like for all GM parts it is just under $300 on-line. A bit steep but it will function like I want it to and look stock.
The rust is not an "issue" yet, it is starting though (fuel door) and a spot around the drivers door handle. Yea the diesel miles are low, hate to dump it with that low of miles. I have thought of getting the rust fixed, but it seems I will be in a constant battle if I start down that road.
Why would anyone want the max tow package if there were not towing something. I only tow it for vacations/weekend trips which typically are less than 500 miles round trip. Every two/three years we do a longer trip, last one was probably 3000 total. Having a second truck just is not something I want to do, I do not want another vehicle to maintain, fuel, and insure and two car seats in a reg cab just will not work. I use to tow with a 6.0L 2500HD and that was fine, rarely did it hunt. I live in the "salt belt" so an 8 year old truck is getting old.
Thanks for the information guys. The 6.2/5.3 I could go either way. A co-worker has a Denali with the 6.2 and he gets decent mileage. I love my duramax, but it is getting old age wise but mileage is pretty low at 75K, so she still has a decent value. Milage I am getting 14-15 now that the winter mix is gone, and with the max tow-package in a 1500 I should be fine. My TT is about 7K dry, and I want the extra room just incase the wife decides she wants something bigger down the road, and I would rather not by on the edge. The tongue weight is high since the wheels are rear of center on the TT so that is another factor for the max tow. I have not gone to the dealer, only have been working via e-mail at this point. I may try another dealer and see what they say.
Hello, I am considering "downsizing" from my 2006 2500HD LLY duramax crew cab 6.5' bed to a 1500 crew cab 6.5' bed with the Max tow package. In the 4+ years that I ahve had the 2500 I have maybe used the 4 wheel drive 5 times so I am strongle considering 2WD. Trouble is the 1500 crews with the max two package are like needles in a hay stack. Local dealer search pulled up one with the 6.2, leather etc, all stuff I really do not want. So I am thinking of maybe ordering one. Has anyone gone this route? Can I still get a "deal" this way? Or is it basically MSRP less any promo's and that is the price. My ideal truck would be a GMC Sierra SLE, 5.3L CC standard bed...and either 2 or 4 wheel drive. The GMC web site shows that this combination is available, and the price with rebates may be doable depending on what I would get for trade in. Just looking for input from guys who have actually ordered a truck and their experience over all.
OK So I guess this is the rip on GM thread now. If you hate the truck that bad sell it and move on. That is what I did with my POS F250. Back on topic please!! Judging by the lack of response I guess most people on here are OK paying over 40K for a half ton truck.
I can say the same about the '08 Ford 250SD I had. Total lemon, will not even think about buying a ford again. And of course nobody pays sticker, but even if there is a rebate for a truck with "typical" options you may be in the upper 30K range for a 1/2 ton truck. My first GMC I owned I paid under 15K for an new SLE 1500 reg cab in 2001. Is a shorter bed and cab big enough for 2 extra door worth 30K 12 years later??
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