Jason Mitchell

I did physically remove the battery and take it to be tested. I charged it before taking it there because I wanted them to do the load test while full. After the surface charge wore off, it held 12.6 volts and the test resulted at 1100 cranking amps. That being said, it is the factory 2017 battery.

I Have a Silverado 3500HD with the 6.0L Gas engine. I have a low voltage situation that I don't believe to be "normal". The dash gauge shows normal 13.8V upon startup, then a few minutes it drops to about 10V. The needle settles just above the lower limit for "normal". I know that the user manual and manufacturer specifications describe this as a normal condition, and the charging system will lower the voltage to extend the battery voltage. Here's the rub. A couple weeks ago, I took the truck on a 5 hour road trip. I noticed the needle drop during this trip. I left the vehicle and did what I had needed to do. When I returned, the truck started normally and operated well for the trip home. I stopped for gas just before parking the truck for the night. After filling, the battery didn't have sufficient charge to start the vehicle. I had the battery and alternator tested separate by removing each component and taking to a test facility. Both were fine on the bench. Why did I lose charge on the trip? Why do I never see the voltage gauge return closer to 14 volts? Anyone have experience with a similar condition?

I'm looking to add factory garage door opener. It appears that GM has moved the module from the overhead compartment area to the rear view mirror. It also contains a self contained/removable remote that stores inside the bottom of the mirror. GM part 84350232 according to gmpartsnow.com Does anyone have experience with this part? Do you have it installed from factory? Has anyone here ordered this part and installed?