schindles

The lower end quotes that you guys got I think are just for a fluid flush. They don’t touch the pan or filter with that. I want to change out my filter and not do that flush. I’ve looked online and on you tube and haven’t found a good video yet of how to do it. Gangly- do you have a good reference or process that I could look up on how to do it?

I just got quoted $1000 from my dealership and just around $1000 from a local mechanic to do above job. I am relatively handy and do most maintenance myself, tranny’s just scare me. How hard is the 8-speed to do with dropping the exhaust etc? Any way around not having to drop it or other information such as torque specs, reuse bolts, etc would also be appreciated by guys that have done it themselves.

So what did you ever end up finding out about the camshaft? I emailed Michigan Motorsports and they replied saying that a new oil pump is not needed and a new camshaft is not needed either as long as it's not damaged from failure (mine isn't). I just wanted to confirm that this is correct info for when I decide to do my delete. It just seems odd that you wouldn't need a new one.

Awesome! I’m glad I could help someone out. I also asked about my heated steering wheel retrofit when I was there, the service manager said end of 2nd quarter. Well see if that happens.

Just like the title says. I finally got my heated seats today! I read somewhere online that if you go to GM’s website and put your VIN in under the recall section it’ll tell you if your truck qualifies yet or not. It also says even if you haven’t received your letter in the mail yet, you can still bring your truck in if it qualifies. Called the dealer. Service guy asked if I had received my letter. When I said no, he told me I had to continue waiting. I explained the above scenario and that website said I qualified as of Sept 16th. There was a long pause on other end. Then he said he had to order my parts. Two weeks later I was about to follow up when they called to set up my appt. Moral of story: all of you waiting on seats, go to GM website to see if you can go in!

Damage or corrosion due to environmental, chemical treatments or aftermarket products. Damage caused by…..salt or other materials used to control road conditions…is not covered. From page 11 of my limited warranty and owner assistance information booklet.

I’m not sure about the bedliner, I was specifically referring to any underside rust proofing spray when I posted earlier in this thread. Sorry for the misunderstanding. If I remember, I’ll try to take at a look at my warranty papers tomorrow and see what exact verbiage they use specifically in terms of a frame rust perspective. That’s all I was wanting to find out here was my best option to try to make my truck last for as long as I possibly can. And to see if I could do that without a wheel well liner or if I was dumb for not running with one.

Thanks to everyone that chimed in with their two cents on here. I think for this winter I’m gonna just wash out the wheel well and spray CRC or FF down. I’ll wait to see if the GM liners ever come in. If not, I can rinse the wells out in the spring and then see where I’m at in terms of still wanting to wait or try something else. I can always put something on at a later date. I think the main thing is to just keep it clean as best I can and just drive it.

Just a FYI. The GM rust warranty is a joke. When I told the sales guy that I was going to have someone spray the underside with cosmoline for me, he said that it would void the warranty. He then followed by saying that even if I didn’t do that, GM voids the warranty as soon as you leave the lot if you live in any state that uses chemicals to de-ice the road so I wouldn’t have a warranty either way. I couldn’t believe it, but sure enough, look at your warranty papers. Only in a handful of states will they stand by it. Arizona stands out in my mind but there were like 10 or so. The rest of us are screwed either way. Crazy

I bought online from Amazon and read mostly good but some (not so great) reviews but went with those anyways as they were $50 cheaper than buying directly from Husky. They were labeled as Husky brand, but then had four "extra" holes down by the end flaps that were unaccounted for in the directions. There was also supposed to be 14 plastic christmas trees and I only received 12 to attach them (if you add in the extra holes, I was then shorted 10). The liners were too big and I couldn't fit in wheel well without some likely major cutting and/or modifications. All of which lead me to believe that they were some cheap knock offs or I was sent the incorrect part. Thus why I didn't want them on my truck. Worst part is, there's no free shipping to return and the post office wants $120 to ship (more than I paid). So I'm stuck with some plastic if anyone wants to make me an offer lol

I read in multiple places where guys say that the rubberized stuff is actually worse than nothing at all. Thought is that over time it develops "micro" cracks and then moisture, salt, etc eat away underneath the coating while on the outside it looks ok. Then when it finally does show itself, the damage is usually so severe that the rust has eaten most of the metal. I (think) I'm just gonna maybe try to go without liners. I don't go off-roading and noise isn't too bad the way it is. Maybe if I stay on top of keeping that area clean from dirt, salt, etc I'll be ok for awhile?

Purchased new truck in March. Got tired of waiting for OEM felt liners so I bought Husky ones from Amazon. Multiple irritations with those, needless to say I won't be keeping them. My local dealer called this morning and left VM. He said that GM is either slowing or stopping production altogether of the OEM felt liners. He also said that they won't get any in stock until mid-winter at earliest or possibly next spring (if ever). He offered a "hard plastic alternative" which I can only assume is the Husky. So, my question is this, if I spray CRC corrosion inhibitor (cosmoline) in there and then am diligent of washing out the wheel wells in the spring and touching up areas w/CRC again, can I get away with running my truck with no liners at all for 10+ years in Minnesota and be (relatively) rust free??

Yikes! Well thanks for your reply. I'm glad to know that it can still be disabled by L7. However, if that has been your driving experience thus far, then I would highly recommend putting a Pulsar on your truck. That's crazy that the transmission would still act that way in L7. My Pulsar has really helped with the shifting of my truck then in that regard. It's (almost) enjoyable now with only the occasional "weirdness". My only concern is when I have to bring it back to the dealer for some warranty work and for installing the heated seat chips. I'm not looking forward to taking it off and having to re-install it afterwards.

Yes, I'm sure. It's on my window sticker with the engine. I'm not entirely sure on my build date. I went to some website that was posted here were you could email GM directly and give them your VIN and they would tell you the exact build date. I received a response the next day saying that GM won't give out that information anymore (likely due to all of the DFM issues people have had in that affected date range).

Purchased ‘22 LTD with 5.3L 8-speed w/DFM on 3/28. When driving in “D”experienced weird up/down shifting in gears 1-3 along with some shuttering that people have reported here. Read a ton on DFM horror stories so I’ve been driving in L7 for the last 4K miles. Shifting improved, but it was still “clunky”. Installed a Pulsar LT over the weekend and man what a difference. Tranny shifts feel buttery smooth now and I’ve lost 1-2 mpg since then. This leads me to believe that driving in L7 does nothing in terms of disabling DFM. Has anyone else experienced this? Or can anyone confirm definitively if L7 does disable DFM?