Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'GMT400'.
Found 7 results
-
WARNING: This is going to be an odd one, and a long shot / shot in the dark to boot. I hope it's not too far off topic, but there just aren't really many forums for this. First things first. I currently am in possession of a pair of Pace Arrow motorhomes, one a 1982 on what I believe is a P20 chassis (6.2 diesel / 16-inch wheels), the other a 1983 on what I believe is a P30 chassis (7.4 gas, 19.5-inch wheels), though I have read this one is likely a P32, not a P30, which I believe only has minor suspension and brake differences. I am not sure which one I will use, or if I can even do what I have in mind. Both have severe roof problems and are too much work to repair properly to be worth it, but run great, and both are extremely low mileage (14k and 65k, respectively). I have seen several 3500s (same cab as 1500 / 2500) with the same 19.5-inch wheel and 7.4L, with an added valance of sorts between the main grille and bumper, suggesting that the cab sits higher and is on a different frame. I have also noticed similarities in rail-to-rail measurements between the P and C/K on chassis diagrams I have downloaded. Auto Zone shows the same body mount kit for the P and C/K for 1983. I have to wonder as well if the late-model U-Haul 26-footers are on a P30/P32 chassis. Even late-model GM cutaway cabs and cab/chassis for U-Haul, small buses and even the Kodiak MDT appear to be the same Express van cab (the G-van's replacement, which was the basis for some box trucks of its vintage). I have also noticed that some of those box trucks had a longer, more raked nose, even though it was a G-van cab. A few pics are attached -- a motorhome similiar to the larger one I have, a "high-boy" 3500 box truck with the extended valance and the same 19.5-inch wheel, and the "Lil' Kenny" kit built for the late-model C/K frame. All of this leads me to believe that a square-body or GMT400 C /K cab would mount on a P chassis with little fuss and muss. Which leads to my main question -- does anyone know if this can be done? Seems like it would work, but I'm hoping someone here has done this before or knows someone who has. I have run across a few similar projects, but could not confirm any of them were finished to the point of a running, driving (and safe) vehicle. The reason I ask such an outlandish question -- I've had a couple ideas here. One was to simply swap a cab / nose from a 73-03 C/K onto the frame. The other idea was a "Lil' Big Rig" kit (scaled down Peterbilt / Kenworth cab built for popular full-size pickup frames). In the event anyone is inspired, the Kenworth version is built specifically for GM, and can be adapted to Dodge, while the Peterbilt version is fitted for use with Ford F-series, though either can be adapted for the other. I'm thinking some modification would be necessary, as the P's steering column sits directly beside the engine. The steering box shows a different part number between the P and C/K, so I wonder if this would be the thing that makes it impossible. However, I wonder if the cab sitting lower might correct this position, or if I would need to change the column / intermediate shaft, or even the steering box itself? Any help would be greatly appreciated. I want to iron out the if's on this idea before I start tearing things apart and find out some technical snag, especially as the Lil Big RIg kits are quite pricey. Would rather have some answers before I start. Kinda thought about yanking the 7.4 and trans from the '83, starting fresh with a used U-Haul, and saving the 7.4 for when the U-Haul's 8.1 gives up. Might be easier, but I like the idea of using what I have if I can. Thanks in advance for any help or advice.
-
Hello everyone. I'm new to the forum. But I came here because I know I can get good info from this site. So let's get to it. I have a 1990 Chevy C1500. It didn't come with A/C. It's getting hot out. I know it's possible to add A/C. I just don't know where to start. I also know that there are under dash units that will not fit my truck. I also know that auto A/C shops can get kits for specific vehicles, however I can't find one for my exact year, make, and model anywhere. Would anyone be able to put me in the right direction for one of these kits or help me with my problem? Thanks so much, everyone.
-
I have a 1993 k3500 454 NV4500... The engine is a semi fresh rebuild(50K miles) with a small cam. I have replaced the following some parts multiple times... The truck has a stumbling rough idle. Seems to lack power to me but im not sure. If i take the truck for a short drive when i come back and go to instantly restart it has no fire from injectors....hit it with a little ether and shes up and running again. Im fairly positive i have that narrowed down to a weak oil pressure sensor.(changing it tomorrow). The truck runs pig rich and never seems to go into Open loop.(i think heated 02 will change that). I AM OPEN TO ALL SUGGESTIONS.. out of ideas myself. I have a ALDL cable with WinALDL & Tuner pro rt but quite frankly do not know what i am looking for I have attached a copy of my logs at a idle. https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1ZuvfldSA_rejBc0FAmCb38zTbHMIlfNR4CoTWgblQSU/edit#gid=361545408 Parts replaced less than 300 miles ago.( All new with AC Delco parts) Completely Rebuilt TBI unit with 2 inch spacer New TPS & IAC i did my best to calibrate them New map sensor Pickup Coil ( Timed at 4 degrees BTDC with connector unplugged) Cap rotor & Plugs & Wires ICM Ignition coil o2 sensor ( Re wired from ecu wire was broke assuming when they reinstalled the engine) *** I plan on switching to a heated o2 due to my long tubes. CTS Knock sensor (Wire was also broken) Newer fuel pump & Filter 15k ago with all new lines Im sure there is plenty others im forgetting. The EGR is deleted as are all other vac lines except MAP,PCV. I am at my wits edge with this truck but i love it very dearly. Hopefully the geniuses on here can help me figure it out. At this point any direction is better than none. Thank you very much you can email me at [email protected] Or text me at 724-570-8672 if that is easier. Lucas Picture of said truck causing me all this heartache
-
I have 96 with the 5.7 and it's been running lean for a while bank 1 and 2 and can not figure out what is causing it. I have changed maf sensor tps sensor new spark plugs there was a code for malfunction o2 sensor i replaced that and I also put some injector cleaner in the tank also changed fuel filter. The truk idles fine but when I put it in reverse and drive and im crawling/creeping along like backing out of the drive way its stuttering and running rough like its about to die/shut off and usually ill get on the gas a little and it will start running fine. It runs fine once I get going 10-20mph on up from there its just when I fire it up and get to rolling and foot is barely on the pedal. Also not even a week ago truck gauges would go to 0 and would get stuck in 3rd ended up being a ground on back of the engine. I do hear a small leak under the driver side could be exhaust manifold or where the flange is right under it where the pipe connects but I don't think it would cause it to run lean. Tomorrow i'm going to check fuel pressure, all I can think of is bad fuel pump, regulator, maybe intake manifold gasket even though I don't see any signs or even a bad ecm. Any help would be appreciated. Also should there be a little bit of oil in the air intake tube? its also in that vent that just pops in the side that comes from the top of the valve cover. its oily around the bottom too where it goes into the cover. -
So, I'm lost. My truck will want to turn right all the time, you have to hold it on the road. Highway, low speed, doesn't matter. I've replaced the upper ball joints, upper control arm bushings, Pitman arm, idler arm, steering box, calipers, pads, rotors, steering stabilizer and front shocks. Checked the lower ball joints and wheel bearings but they are free and have no play. Had it aligned twice by Merchants. The guy was cool, he brought me in and showed me the machine and worked with me. He let me drive it after everything was done and we tried again but he was even lost and apologized. On the machine it was perfect. On the road not so much. I bought new Cooper Discover A/T's and some Dick Cepeks recently but nothing changed after the upgrade. Went with a bigger tire but the issue persisted after the change. So the only things I haven't changed are the lower ball joints, inner / outer tie rods, wheel bearings, and ????. I even went as far as to park my truck on flat ground and measured the height of the front fenders and re-adjusted the torsion bars to match everything up hoping for some improvement. Its very squirrelly at highway speed. The larger tires seemed to have amplified the issue. Wanders fairly badly now.any help will be much appreciated -
Well, awhile back I picked up what I was hoping would be a good deal. Craigslist ad for a 1997 GMC Sierra 1500 4x4, regular cab long box, has 180,000 miles and the listing said body and interior in great shape, would trust driving the truck to Texas and back, yada yada. So I made the 200 mile trip to pick it up, they were asking 1800$ and when I got there, rockers were rusted out, cab corners gone, windshield wiper motor fried, blower resistor bad so only 1 setting works, door hinges shot, trucks misfiring, low coolant, oil blacker then sin, starter cranks slow, broken mirrors on both sides, list goes on. Talked her down to 1400$, and somehow managed to make it back, of course I had to drive through a blizzard on the way back. Overdrive started shuddering extremely bad in lockup so had to throw it in 3rd gear the rest of the way. Now so far, I've replaced the injectors with the MPFI spider, new intake gaskets, new plugs (she had the wrong ones in it), new distributor, new cap & rotor, cleaned a shit ton of sludge out of the intake valley, new pulleys and new serpentine. Engine has a tick that is sometimes loud, sometimes quiet, on the driver side bank. Usually goes away once truck warms up. Its there at all RPMs, doesn't get louder or quieter getting on the gas, so guessing its a valve? Dumped a quart of ATF in, drove it some and changed the oil. Fresh oil now with a quart of Marvel in there, definitely an improvement. Oil pressure is 30-40 at idle. I still have a random misfire, not throwing any codes. And when I say random, its only once every 3-5 seconds that I will feel the misfire, not in any given pattern. Thinking plug wires? Haven't changed those yet, but figured I would see what others recommend. I was hoping the shuddering at 45-60 during converter lock up, was a misfire or something. Feels like damn rumble strips. Hoping I don't have to get the whole tranny rebuilt. Paid 1400$ for the truck, and put about 1400$ into it so far. Still needs a lot of things.
-
Located in Northern Arizona. http://flagstaff.craigslist.org/pts/5259811598.html A complete set of factory GM 5015 Wheels. Includes center caps. These wheels look good for their age. There is some clear coat fade on a few of the wheels and some scuffs. Wheels spin true and are in good woking condition. Selling because got different wheels for my truck. Chevrolet Pick-up, Truck, GMC, Suburban, Blazer, Yukon, Tahoe, Yukon XL, Z-71, K1500, C1500 1988, 1989, 1990, 1991, 1992, 1993, 1994, 1995, 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999
