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Found 7 results

  1. Both of the park lights/DRLs on my 2015 Suburban (138k miles) are only half light. As shown in the picture, specifically the outer 4 LEDs on each side. I grabbed this screenshot from a video posted on Youtube with minimal comments as to a fix other then replace by dealer and adding a ground... does anyone else have this problem or found a fix? I have checked the Fuses and relay and all seem to be okay. I also think it is a little bit strange that both sides are out at the same time... YouTube Video (not mine): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jDAHWteRDeE
  2. I've read quite a few posts about putting in resistors or removing sensors and trying to make this subject way more complicated than it needs to be. I wanted to share the success I had with my truck that took less time to disable the automatic features than writing this post will take. Simply remove the light switch panel/housing from your dash and disconnect the plugs going into the back of each switch. Take the assembly inside into some good light and take apart the headlight switch from the housing. Next take apart the switch itself being careful not to pry too deep and pop the releases (the circuit board is just under this cover). Once open you'll see a small coiled spring in one of the corners. Lift it up and it pops right out. Reassemble everything and you're done. Less than 5 minutes and your lights operate the way lights used to work....turn the switch if you want them to come on. You can still move the switch to auto if you want as well but now they will stay in the off position if that's where you want them.
  3. 99 Silverado, right side DRL is not working. I replaced both bulbs with new LED ones, and STILL the right side doesn't work. Is this a relay or some sort of DRL module issue then?
  4. I have a 2015 silverado from Canada I bought headlight covers and tail light covers for the truck not realizing that the lights stay on all the time while in drive is there a way to disable the drls while in gear.. doesn't look very good with lights on under the covers.. no drl relay that I could find
  5. This requires the use of a relay harness (which I recommend anyway) and a 4700uF capacitor Ok, When DRL's are active, you car is supplying the following signal to your driving lights: _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ +12v _________________ Ground That's Correct, it 'Pulses' the current to lower the intensity of the light. This works perfectly for Filament bulbs, as you are simply heating a filament which produces the light. But when sent to the relay, it will cause the relay to latch and unlatch repeatedly which will cause flicker. HID's however, need a constant current flow to them, such as the following: _________________ +12v _________________ Ground Now, most people are over complicating things, by making the Fog's DRLs and such, but I don't want to fiddle around with the lights everytime I get in the car, so this is what needs to be done to be able to keep the Auto function of the headlights. We will, by the use of capacitors, turn the DRL's Pulsing current -_-_-_ into a smooth, constant flow -------- So, we aren't relocating the DRL's, we are simply going to use HID's as DRL's AND Driving lights. Perfect! This is exactly how most Audi's and BMW's function anyways. So, here is the miracle solution: Using a 4700uF (That's microfarad) capacitor (A pair should run you 4-5 bucks at most) we are smoothing out the Pulses and sending a constant supply to the Relay. This is called a smoothing or reservoir capacitor. What it does, is on a Positive pulse, it charges, and in between pulses it slowly discharges. The bigger the capacitor, the slower the discharge: Without Capacitor: With Capacitor: We can see after the capacitor, we have an almost linear voltage. How do we make this as linear as possible? By using a capacitor as big as the 4700uF. This keeps the relay latched so that it doesn't interrupt the current flow to the ballast.I do NOT recommended using this without a relay, you shouldn't put this in parallel with the ballast itself. And for when the driving lights go on, the constant +12v will simply keep the capacitor charged and this won't affect system performance as it basically will stay there fully charged until it can discharge. And when you cut power to the light, the capacitor will discharge quickly enough as to not allow the relay to flicker. The ballast see's it as the current beeing shutoff and not a pulsing current. So, all you need to do, it simply splice a capacitor between the +12V and GROUND wire leading to the Latching relay, such as my diagram below shows: Enjoy! Credit to mtlsportgt on mazda3forums.com
  6. Hey everyone! I'm new to this site and just got my 2017 Silverado LT 1500 last week. I did a search on this topic but came up empty. I love the headlights with the LED switchback strip on the LTZ, Z71, and High Country. I was wondering if anyone has tried or considered putting those on an LT package. Are the harnesses the same so it would be a simple plug-and-play or am I just having wishful thinking to think its that simple. If not plug-and-play, what kind of modifications would have to be done (or potential harness replaced) to make these lights work? Let me know your thought, concerns, or problems this upgrade may have. And if anyone has a picture of the wiring harness of the switchback LED strip headlight and could post it so we can compare the 2 to see if they are the same or even similar and what differences there are between the two headlights. Thanks in advance!
  7. Hello there and thanks for having me aboard. I'm a retired guy and live in the Chattanooga, TN area who loves his (too nice for me) "truck" but still has a few funny furrin' cars too for tearing around our mountain roads (not dead yet). The 2004 Rainier is a 5.3L just over 100K miles, has the automatic headlight system (no headlight washers), security system, rear air suspension and drinks a quart of synthetic every thousand miles. Thanks again and glad to have found a good forum.
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