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Found 5 results

  1. I am receiving a "Service Front Camera" on the DIC upon starting my truck. I also can not activate the lane keep assist switch. I assume this could be from a dirty camera lens; it has been misting/raining today. Any ideas of how to clean the lens?
  2. Not sure where to put this, but thought it was a valid topic for anyone having a windshield replaced and has ADAS on their vehicle (Advanced Driver Assistance Systems); HUD, Lane Keep Assist, Lane Departure Warning, Forward Collision Warning, etc. While searching for more info, as well as justification to spend the extra $$ for the infamous Windshield Calibration that many reference, I found these videos that offer a good incite. What is ADAS? Tech Talk: ADAS (2016) Video showing the tools needed for the various ADAS Calibrations Example video of calibration for Lane Keep Assist (2018 accord) ADAS Camera Calibration - Toyota
  3. You've been asking and we've been listening, I'm proud to announce that we have native in unit support now for not only rear camera in motion but also the ability to now add a switchable front camera in motion as well; all utilizing factory hardware! This was the plan from the beginning however we had originally intended to make an interface box to make all of this happen but were able to work around that to the point it was no longer necessary. Front camera will obviously still require the addition of a camera and wiring etc but it is now possible without any sort of aftermarket interface to worry about. Those of you with fifth wheels may choose to make this a bed camera as well, the options really are endless here. We also added a new set of guidelines as well, so now you have three options: 1. No Guidelines 2. Traditional Moving Boxed Guidelines 3. Minimalist single moving guideline Switching between the two modes can be done on the camera screen using the icons at the bottom. This feature will be included on all future 2016 unlock orders as well as any CarPlay upgrades that opt for the unlock. So not only do you get our famous unlock that removes the in motion locks from the HMI vehicle side controls for video in motion from USB/SD, additional movie formats as well as video in motion from DVD/BluRay and nav entry etc etc but you also get factory camera control as an additional bonus! Those of you who have already purchased the unlock for your 2016 or have purchased a CarPlay with the unlock will need to work out the best way to upgrade your system with Anthony as this is a completely different setup software wise. For more information please TEXT Anthony at 919-995-9523
  4. I recently purchased a 2016 Yukon Denali XL and experienced a malfunction of the front camera that is used for lane departure warnings. My dealer states that there are no repair parts available for this and that it may be a lengthy period of time before any become available. Has anyone experienced this or have any knowledge on this topic?
  5. If you have an aftermarket navigation like an Advent OGM1, Alpine or Kenwood, etc. and have tied your factory camera into the aftermarket head unit, unless you disconnected it or sold the factory display mirror, you are now left with the factory camera showing in the mirror as well as the display on the radio. Although this is a perfectly acceptable situation and in some cases may be preferable if you tend to look at the mirror while backing up, you have a couple more options available: Sell your mirror monitor on Ebay for ~$250-$300 and replace it with the cheaper standard mirror Use the mirror monitor for displaying another camera like a front, side or camper/trailer camera A front camera is a lifesaver when pulling into a tight parking stall or garage space, and for the cost (in this case less than $125, but can be done for much less), it's cheaper than fixing ANY damage you could do to the front of your truck by running into another vehicle or other immoveable object. Also, if you ever hook any accessories to the front of your truck (snowplow, front hitch, etc.), a front camera is indispensable. To use the factory mirror with another camera is really pretty easy and can be done simply by adding a switch to turn on the display and hard-wiring your camera to the mirror. This mod covers adding a front camera (Advent CAM500) to my own Tahoe, and the process is identical in the Suburban and Yukon, but slightly different in the Silverado/Sierra, where the camera wires are actually easier to get to. An overview of the process: Determine what type of switch you want to use (momentary or toggle) and where you want to mount it Choose your camera and where you want to mount it, then run your camera power/ground and video output cables to the mirror Identify the wires for your mirror display trigger and the mirror monitor camera input Wire switch to ignition and mirror trigger wires Wire camera power/ground Wire camera video output to mirror input Enjoy another camera in your truck! In my own Tahoe, I added an Advent CAM500 to the front grille - this is a small camera with an all-metal body that can be used as a front or rear camera and has switchable parking lines: In the case of the Tahoe (or Silverado) with the factory "crosshatch" style grille, it was EXTREMELY easy to mount because the threads of the camera body were within a few thousandths of a "friction fit" into any one of the holes, so I added about 4 wraps of electrical tape to the metal threads to tighten the fit: As I mentioned, the camera is able to be used as a front camera because you can cut a loop to reverse the image, and another loop to remove the parking lines: Once the camera is mounted, it's very unobtrusive and almost hard to pick out as an aftermarket accessory: Next came finding a switch to use and a place to mount it. I sourced a nice rubber covered momentary switch, which when activated turns on the mirror display that stays on for 3-5 seconds after releasing the button. I mounted it on the steering column cover to the rear of the opening for the steering column tilt release lever: The switch is what's needed to turn on the mirror display while the truck is running, so it has to have an ignition power feed on one terminal (input) and a connection to the mirror display trigger wire (output) on the other terminal. A handy place to grab both ignition and the mirror trigger is at the left I/P junction block - this is under the large black cover to the left of the footbrake. Once you pull the cover off, this what you'll see (or some minor variation of this layout): In this case, the wire labeled "REVERSE" above is in fact the trigger wire for the factory mirror, and IGNITION and GROUND for the camera and switch are readily accessible here as well. What we need to do is hook one terminal of our switch (input) to the IGNITION terminal here, then remove the light gray plug at the top right of the junction block and peel back the tape on the harness a little bit, then cut the blue "REVERSE" wire: Connect the side that goes into the taped harness and up to the mirror to the output terminal of your switch: At this stage, you can test the operation of your switch - if your factory camera is still hooked up, put the truck in reverse to turn on the factory camera, then you should be able to turn the mirror display on and off with the switch. Now we can identify the wires from the factory camera. In the Silverado and Sierra, these wires can be found at the left kick panel (and if you have already wired your rear camera to your radio, you've already identified these wires and hooked your radio's backup camera RCA lead to them), or at the mirror harness like the Tahoe/Suburban/Yukon/Avalanche: If you have a Tahoe/Suburban/Yukon/Avalanche, this camera plug is not at the kick panel - the only place I've ever been able to locate it is at the mirror harness itself - the factory camera wires are the white and blue wires in Pins 6 and 7 at the plug at the mirror (third and second pins in from the right, respectively in this photo): Here's the actual pin assignments at the mirror: The easiest way to get access to these wires in order to make your connections is to remove the mirror (loosen the Torx T-20 screw at the base and slide it off upward), then remove the domelight lens to gain access and remove the two Torx T-15 screws under the lens, then pull out the upper console and unplug the harnesses attached, then set the console aside. You can then pull the mirror harness up and out of the hole in the headliner where the console was. Peel off the tape around the upper portion of this harness to expose the wires inside. You will need to route your camera's video output up to the mirror in order to make these connections, and if you did not hook power to your camera at the left I/P junction block as mentioned above, you can run power and ground for the camera here as well. It is far easier to run these cables by removing the left side "A" pillar trim by pulling the trim plug at the top of the "A" pillar cover and removing the 7mm screw underneath, then pull out at the top of the trim panel, then up. Unplug the tweeter if you want, or just lay the panel on top of the dashboard. Run your camera wires up the pillar and ziptie to the existing harness that's already there, then route across the forward edge of the headliner to the upper console location. Camera power connections: IGNITION is the pink wire in Pin 13 and GROUND is the black wire in Pin 8: The factory camera wires are the same white and blue wires you see in Pins 6 & 7 at the mirror, but they are wrapped inside the blue foil seen here: When you peel back the foil, the factory camera wires are inside - you will cut these wires as shown below in order to hook up your new camera input to the mirror: Almost all cameras have a standard RCA male for video output, so it makes sense to source a female RCA cable and hardwire that to the mirror harness instead of hacking off the male end of your camera harness - in the photo below, my female RCA cable has had the outer insulation stripped off and the center conductor (RED) connected to the white wire leading to the mirror and outer shield (COPPER) has been connected to the blue wire leading to the mirror: If you are doing this in a Silverado/Sierra, the same connections apply, but you will be doing them at the driver's kick panel, with the front camera video feeding the white and blue wires leading UP THE PILLAR TOWARDS THE MIRROR. Once your connections are made, you should then be able to display the rear camera on the radio when the truck is in reverse and the front camera any time the key is on by flipping your switch. If everything checks out, you can reassemble the truck and start using your camera! To lend some perspective to the difference this camera makes, I backed up in my driveway, then pulled in as close as I dared to the front of my garage without using the camera, judging distance solely by looking over the hood - (close enough that I was scared of running into the house) - then switched on the camera: On getting out and checking my clearance, I was embarrassed at how badly I had judged the distance: Next time, I backed up and tried pulling in with the camera on, and I was able to reduce this distance to about 6-8 inches with no problem at all. It truly made all the difference in the world being able to actually see where the front bumper was instead of having to guess (badly) where it was! If you (or your significant other) are regularly sticking the nose of your truck into tight spaces like a garage or even pulling into a parking stall, the added perspective will give a boost of confidence that I don't believe you can get any other way, and potentially save some pretty major repair bills... In conclusion, this mod is one of the most cost-effective, useful (and fun) mods I've done in awhile, and it makes great use out of your factory mirror that you probably don't even look at any more (for the camera portion anyway).
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