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Found 5 results

  1. I have a 2016 Sierra 1500 with the 5.3L engine, 111k miles. About 6 months ago I changed the spark plugs & wires and one of the wires accidently got pulled out by the stupid long bolt in the steering shaft that run way to close to one of the spark plug wires. The truck misfired but I was only a few miles from home. I limped it back, realized the problem, plugged the wire in and all seemed good. Unfortunately, 10 miles later the check engine light came on again, this time just showing P0420 code (catalyst efficiency below threshold, Bank 1). I changed all (4) of the O2 sensors, but the code came back after 10 miles. I then bit the bullet and changed the drivers side cat with a aftermarket weld-on from rockauto, nope. I then paid a muffler shop to replace the passengers side cat (generic) and fix my sad welding on the drivers side. The light stayed off for about 50 miles this time but as always came back on. I then tried to put a spacer between the 2 rear O2 sensors to pull them out of the exhaust stream, light on after 10 miles. I even tried plugging the old 2 rear o2 sensors in the wiring harness and just zip tying them to the frame so they were breathing fresh oxygen, but still the light! My mechanic is out of ideas and suggesting taking it to the stealership and having them replace both cats again with the OEM setup for @$2000. I have almost zero faith that will solve the problem and that it will just be more money that I don't have going into the trash, and the dealer will just shrug their shoulders. Any other suggestions of things to look at/try before jumping off that cliff? I am a backyard mechanic with just a basic OBD2 reader. I do know that all (4) O2 sensors are putting out voltage, but really don't know how to interpret that data.
  2. Hello, I went to go crank my truck and it started but sounded horrible. The whole truck started shaking and the rpm's were dropping and the fuel gauge was twitching. I drove a mile down the road to the GM dealership and on the way the check engine light was flashing. The tech read the code and it came back as P0137 which I believe is an O2 sensor. Would a sensor cause my truck to die? 2015 Silverado 1500 LTZ 77k miles.
  3. Every once in a while (4-5 times over the past 9 years), I've gotten a P0161 (O2 heater performance Bank 2, downstream, after cat) code, but there's never been anything noticeable as far as runability. I got the P0161 in December and again this week. But, now I'm seeing 2 new codes I haven't ever seen before: P0155 (O2 sensor heater performance Bank 2, upstream) and P1153 (O2 sensor insufficient switching Bank 2, upstream). I figure the P0161's may have just been anomalies in the past, but now that I'm seeing BOTH the P0155 and the P1153 for the upstream sensor that it might be a sign the sensor is malfunctioning. Or, should I just wait and see if it's just another anomaly? If you've gotten P0155 and P1153 codes, did replacing the sensor fix the problem? Description
  4. I've been having some weird problems with my truck lately. Recently I started getting the P1870 code indicating a slipping transmission component. I had noticed some issues with the transmission, but mostly in reverse. Not the hard shifts between 1st and 2nd that most people experience. At any rate, I've purchased the Transgo 4L60E Shift Kit. It's on its way. While I'm waiting for the kit to arrive, I have started experiencing other strange issues. I'm getting many different codes, but not all at the same time. I've seen P1345 (Camshaft to Crankshaft Position Correlation), P0420 (Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold), P1351 (ICM Circuit High Input Condition), P0118 (Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit High Input), P0131 (O2 Sensor Circuit Low Voltage, Bank 1 Sensor 1). A little background... Back in the summer, I had to replace the timing chain because a new starter caused the old one (which was very loose) to skip a tooth or two. During the diagnostic process to determine that the timing chain was the reason it wouldn't start, the distributor was removed. When my son put it back in, he must've put it in a tooth off. Since then I've been driving around with a P1345. I recently had that fixed at a local shop (after I had tried several times to correct it myself -- I was happy to see that he was having the same issues that I did. $50 well spent). Just before I took the truck into the shop, the P1870 started showing up. I would clear it and it would come right back within a few minutes of driving. Fortunately I was able to get the truck to pass inspection anyway. Even though the timing was fixed (I saw it on the screen myself. It was dialed in to 0 degrees.) I haven't noticed any kind of performance (or gas mileage increase). During the whole time that the timing was off, I was getting about 5 mpg less and it would struggle to get up to speed. I would eventually get up to highway speed (65mph) and it would cruise along just fine. Starts from a stop seemed to be an issue. After the timing was fixed, I still have the same problem. Maybe the catalytic converter is a bit clogged (I had been driving for almost a year with a rich condition because the fuel injection spider was leaking -- I eventually fixed it, but shortly afterwards, I would occasionally get the P0420 code.) Another issue was the coolant temperature sensor. I had replaced it, but when I crimped on the new pigtail, I think I may have squeezed too hard and messed up one of the splice connections. Every once in a while, when I'm driving, the truck would suddenly act like it was about to stall and then it would return to normal. Then it would do it again. I cranked up my Torque app on my Android phone and saw that the coolant temperature was -40F! I wiggled the pigtail wire and everything would go back to normal until it decided to do it again. The other night, while I was driving home from a late night job, the truck started doing something strange. I was driving down the highway at 65mph when, all of a sudden, there was a lack of power. The engine was running at 1000rpm but the speedometer kept going down. When I would press the gas pedal I would hear some popping sounds (kinda like a backfire). I was able to coast into the parking lot of the nearby mall. What I noticed was that IF I didn't press the gas pedal, the engine would idle at 1000rpm in drive and would actually move the truck through the parking lot at 20mph. Once I stopped it and put it in park, and then barely applied the gas pedal, the engine would threaten to stall. I was getting all of the codes listed above. In the Torque app, I was seeing that the O2 sensors were zeroed out. They weren't showing anything. Eventually, the O2 sensors would start reporting voltages again and when I pressed the gas pedal, the engine would usually rev up as expected. Sometimes it would struggle, but eventually it would do it. I turned the engine off (so I could do some online researching). After about half an hour, I tried to start it again, but it wouldn't start. It would turn over just fine, and I could tell that it was occasionally sparking, but it just wouldn't start. I couldn't hear if the fuel pump was pressurizing because of the nearby highway traffic noise. Eventually I got it to start by standing on the gas pedal. Once it started, it did the same thing as before -- it would threaten to stall when the gas pedal was pressed. Just so you know... The O2 sensor just before the cat was replaced a couple years. I've replaced the coolant temperature sensor recently (I replaced the sensor, but not the pigtail). About a month ago, I replace the Ignition Control Module because the truck absolutely not start. It would turn over and barely spark. After quite a bit of troubleshooting with a multi-meter, I determined that the problem was the ICM. I replaced it and the truck started right up. Sooooo... Why is the truck all of a sudden throwing codes, at the same time, for components that I've replaced within the past couple of years? It doesn't make any sense. The mechanic has mentioned that he *thought* that *maybe* the passenger side O2 sensor might be going out because of what he saw on his scanner. But still, why would all the other codes be showing up? I've got an idea, I would just like somebody to confirm it for me. The truck is in the mall parking lot about 25 miles from me. Tomorrow I'm going to have it towed to a shop for them to diagnose and repair the situation. I need to get this thing running soon because it's my only mode of transportation. Any ideas? Thanks in advance for your input. lrbarrios
  5. I have a 2003 silverado and am having issues. When i first start truck it will miss and sputter and idle will fluctuate for 10 to 15 seconds then will smooth out. when on road at WOT it loses power, feels very restricted, rough runs, misses and the check engine light comes on. Pull code and it is p0151 and p1031. the o2 sensors have been replaced. Any clues as to what i could look for? Could a leak in the intake cause that or a bad fuel pressure regulator? HELP!!!
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