tbhuge

Did you ever figure out how to tighten up the upper bearing? I am currently dealing with and beginning my research on a solution. Thanks.

Mine has done that before. For me I will hit the load button several times and each time I hit it, it recognizes that there is already a cd in each slot one at a time. Its frustrating, buts its worked each time so far.

Same thing happened to me a few months back. It was the wires coming out of the shifter. If you take the covers off your steering column, it is plain as day which wires we are talking about. Mine was a very obvious break. The wires for this area should have a lot more protection around this area. GM flaw..... If you follow the wires on down it as its own connector. Take the connector apart and one bolt and you can put the entire assembly on your workbench to resolder or fix it. If I were to rate the difficulty of this, I would put it in the beginner category. I had more of a challenge trying to figure out how the covers unsnapped from each other than anything else.

Sounds like a lot of fun is in my future.......I tried pulling the circuit breaker again and leaving it out for a little bit and then reinstalling, and that didnt help it this time. Am I correct in assuming that the heated seats and power function are on 2 seperate circuits since they are in 2 seperate locations on the fuse block?? If so, any ideas why they would both quit working at the same time, or is it just a fluke and I really have 2 seperate issues that just happened to occur at the same time??

Got in my truck this morning and there is no heat in the seats, and the power on the driver has stopped working. If it is a relay setup, where is the relay for the seats, and where is the fuse that controls the other side of the relay??

I rarely ever move the seat or adjust it. I have been using the heated seats daily...I live in Alaska. But they appear to be 2 complete different circuits because the power to the seat is the 30A circuit breaker that controls both seats and then the heated seats are included in the ignition with a 10A fuse. So I just think it is odd that they both go out at the same time and that it was only the driver side and not the passenger. I do have one motor that has stopped worrking, it is the front tilt motor on the bottom cushion. It stopped working a while back.

So I went ahead and pulled the circuit breaker for several minutes, and put another new 10A fuse in for the power seat and now everything seems to be working......weird. The other fuse that was in there was a good fuse, and it is weird that pulling the circuit breaker for several minutes would fix it, because there are only 2 prongs on the breaker and it controls both seats. I never had any trouble with the passenger seat. Do I have an electrical Gremlin??!!!

bump.

I have a 2006 silverado 1500HD LT. As of last night, my driver seat is dead. None of the power seat buttons works. I can't move the seat as well as the heated seat is not working either. All of these features are working on the passenger side. I checked all of the connections on the bottom of the seat and nothing seems loose. I also looked in the manual to see which fuses may be the problem. It looks like there is a fuse that controls the heated seats/Ignition and then a circuit breaker that controls both of the power seats. I have yet to find a fuse that controls JUST the driver seat. So does anyone have any ideas on what else to check or any clues as to why just the driver seat is not working??

The sensor in the plug is a simple bi-metallic piece of metal that makes contact at about 0F. You can cut the rubber on the 'blister' back and stick a metal washer in there so that there is always contact and it will come on whenever you plug it in. But.... if you have it plugged in when it's 'warm' out (say 30F or warmer) you run the risk of tripping the instrument panel MIL on cold starts giving you a message that the coolant temp sensor is out of spec. You can also just go to NAPA and buy a regular block heater replacement cord without the built in thermostat. I've done both and either works fine. I've been plugging mine is on really cold days since 2004 and haven't had a code thrown yet. DEWFPO I'm not familiar at all with the bi metallic piece of metal, so if it is just a simple piece, is there a way to make or buy just one of these that engages at different temperatures than 0 degrees and then add it to a new plug. I would like to shoot for 20-25 degrees. Any electrical engineers out there??

That Espar set up is interesting, however not very cost effective. There has got to be a low buck option. If the entire sensor and circuitry for when the block heater kicks in is in the plug, what circuitry is in there?? There is only so much room in that plug. I'm not an electronics expert, but there has to be a way to duplicate it but change it slightly so that it turns on at a different temperature.

I've got the diehard platinum battery that's made by Odyssey. I normally just park in the garage, however I have been redoing the bathroom in my house and have the garage being used with tools and new stuff to go into the bathroom. So I have been parking the truck outside for the last month or so. I just noticed that I can't really even tell that the block heater is even plug in, because it still starts like it is really cold and has to warm up for a while. Oh and I am up in Alaska. Thankfully I am Anchorage though and not Fairbanks!!! They saw -40 and -50 in the last week!!!

So is there anyway to adjust the temperature sensor as to when the blcok heater kicks on. I noticed on the cord the other night that it says it is suppose to kick on at 0 degrees F. However it has been colder than that a few mornings and I can tell that the block heater had not been on. If I could adjust the temperature to 20 or 25 degrees that would be awesome. I do not want to cut the end off and have it running all the time as well as start throwing codes either. There has to be a way to have my cake and eat it too!!!

There is only one color up here in Alaska......Its called DIRTY!!!