Then it's still considered not possible. No brake controller is worth 5k end of story. If someone can go the route of the pigtail and a 100.00 aftermarket controller, 5k is the stupidest waste of 4900.00 ever. If you spend that money even as someone who has the expendable cash your an idiot. Better to take the hit on going upside down for 5k on a new truck. If you dump the serviceability, that's a minimum of 5k more loss to the majority of owners, and that's if you got a truck that's not problematic - we all know about 8-10 nagging things these trucks tend to go back for service on and we won't repair ourselves.
It's all about the environment the vehicle lives in..
I'll never do another wireless accessory to any vehicle. Every single one of them is subpar components. This flickering thing is super common. Hard wiring is where it's at. I've posted these before, but will bring em to this thread for view:
There's extended items that come with push button in oem applications. Several manufactures have the fob sensor preload the car for the fob in range. ie move the seat to position 1 or 2 or even easy access full back position, open powerfold mirrors, interior light and courtesy/puddle lamps come on etc just by walking up to vehicle. In addition, several load the door handle with a discrete button that allows unlock without the fob (just has to be in range still). Those features are something I would definitely like in this truck. It's not the push button alone, it's the fob sensing features that come with that technology these days that drive my desire.
I have not seen anyone do that, but that's a great idea. I have not seen a thread, nor do I know of an attempt to make it work. I think most folks just get into a aftermarket controller and call it a day.
Best path to this end result is a dual solenoid layout - one at each front. Very simple install as it's just an inline pass thru, a hot and a ground. You may as well go to braided lines vs oem rubbers while you are there. I use Jegs solenoids - just a personal preference thing honestly as they have been good to me in several vehicles. When messing with brakes in these trucks, always always always do your manipulation after all of the oem electronics. You do not want to back wash or over pressurize the abs controller, stabilitrak, or any of the other components upstream from the caliper. In other words let the solenoid work the caliper only. I mounted the solenoids right on top of the frame rails caught my ground with the mounting bolt right there and then brought passenger side hot lead to the driver side then in to the cabin at the main harness grommet. I've noticed with these oem calipers that I get a better bite by giving the brake pedal 2 or 3 pumps then hold and engage lock. Otherwise just pressing down and engaging sometimes allows a little bit of roll.
Shaft is the first thing I normally toss in the trash almost every truck bought. Driveshaft specialists always gives the hookup: http://www.driveshaftspecialist.com/Truckhtml/Chevy-GMC.html
Knew 5 minutes after I threw the enclosed out back with a car on board that the brakes do not cut it. That's my reasoning. The reasoning really depends on the needs of the guy behind the wheel. If I was running a dropped truck and driving spirited I'd do the same. Can a person that just uses the truck as a daily, no spirited driving, no heavy hauling just leave as is - absolutely and they would be perfectly happy. If you have never driven a truck that runs a BBK you may want to give it a go. Significant difference and a very desirable upgrade.
I don't have any trouble seeing in there. Although I don't stick a lot in there. I keep most everything in under the lid and I have the organizer tray to keep me organized with the small stuff..
$600 cash is about the max around here. I had my stockers up for 4 months thinking I could pull decent money and then just liquidated them before winter so I didn't need to store them.
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