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About RestorationRides

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  • Birthday 08/30/1963
  1. So sorry! I've been away for awhile. Let me try to address this question now with the idea that maybe you have not figured out how to check it through other means... The best way to check for a loose baffle in the muffler without taking it off the vehicle is to smack it from underneath with something that won't dent it. Soft toed shoes such as tennis shoes can be helpful because they have enough Mass with your foot and your leg behind it but it's soft enough at the toe so as not to damage the muffler. By thumping the muffler in a rhythmic pattern you can really get that muffler bouncing up and down against its elastic mounting straps. If a baffle is completely loose you should be able to hear it bouncing off the bottom of the muffler can or wherever in the muffler it has fallen to. For smaller baffles that you might not be able to hear, or baffles that are starting to come loose but are still attached in some way, you can try a dead soft mallet rapping it against the edges of the muffler and work your way around that muffler listening for loose metallic sounds. Best regards, Restoration Rides Sent from my Z981 using Tapatalk
  2. I just did a rebuild on my 8100 Vortec engine. The bolts snapped off on the worn-out heat shields, so we wrapped the manifolds in high temp material with stainless bands and it's working well that way. I would definitely say that you need the shields as there are delicate electronics bits and harnesses and connectors under the hood that could be damaged, and the spark plug boots would probably get damaged, and you could also start a fire under - that would not be fun... :-( Regards, Restoration Rides :-) Sent from my Z981 using Tapatalk
  3. Not familiar with that gauge or that cluster, but if it's an older style analog gauge, I have reset them by simply smacking flat handed on the gauge face - not too hard of course so as to break anything but hard enough to jar it off the peg... Regards, Restoration Rides ;-) Sent from my Z981 using Tapatalk
  4. I just did a reman long block on my 2005 GMC C5500 Topkick 33' box truck with the 8.1 liter and the Allison 5 spd. transmission. It will easily cost you twice as much to rebuild that motor as a conventional big block 454 for example, and there are virtually no speed parts or aftermarket parts to improve performance and /or fuel efficiency if you or your son are motorheads and want to modify it further. The only things available are extremely expensive and pretty much from one supplier. Other than that, it's a beast of a motor with 450 foot pounds of torque. I'm getting about 11 to 12 miles per gallon on a 12000 lb empty truck. I'm getting about 8 to 9 when it's loaded up to about thirty thousand pounds. Not a big difference no matter how you load it... Regards, Restoration Rides ;-) Sent from my Z981 using Tapatalk
  5. The rattling could be coming from a baffle that has come loose inside of the muffler. If a baffle were to restrict the exhaust, then you would have a decrease in performance and fuel efficiency. The observations of substantial rust under the vehicle and known past operation in wet and cold environment (read Canada) would correlate well. Especially if this vehicle was used for short trips in such cold wet conditions, where moisture in the muffler would tend to accumulate and combine with combustion gases to form strong acids that attack the metal in the exhaust system... Regards, Restoration Rides Sent from my Z981 using Tapatalk
  6. Wow! That is a lot of play! You're not mentioning whether or not there are noise-related symptoms...? I'm doing some quick math in my head. If your rims are 17 inches then your tires are about 31 inches OD. That would put the circumference of the tire at about eight feet. If your axle ratio is about 4 to 1, then 1 complete rotation of the driveshaft should rotate the tires about 1/4 of a complete rotation while moving the truck forward (or back) about 2 feet (assuming there is no slack in the differential) So if the truck is can be moved almost a foot in total before the driveshaft takes up the slack and starts rotating, (in either direction) there's clearly something very wrong! Also, "shuddering" is not a common symptom of excessive differential clearance. Shuddering usually comes from problems in the clutch assembly or flywheel pilot bushing or loose motor / transmission mounts or a middle drive shaft bearing on a two piece driveshaft where it or the rubber donut has failed. In my estimation, the problem is not in the clearancing of the differential gears themselves. If there was that much clearance in the ring and pinion set, it wouldn't propel the vehicle anymore and would likely be making horrible noises. I've got a couple ideas here. I'm thinking maybe the yoke on the differential that you bolt the driveshaft up to has somehow started slipping on its (failed key) pinion shaft...? Or one of the axles has sheared and only the limited-slip is preventing all of the rotation from flowing to the failed axle...? Regards, Restoration Rides Sent from my Z981 using Tapatalk
  7. To Vernon... The Vortech 8100 (496) engine assembly typically integrates a cast aluminum oil pan. It's a nice OEM piece and incorporates a windage tray into the pan below the crankshaft and above the oil in the pan. The purpose of the windage tray is to prevent the reciprocating activity of the crankshaft throws and their associated con rods from whipping up the crankcase oil and causing detrimental aeration (foaming). So, in the case of this engine, I would say not to worry about a specific oil level and do what most people herein have recommended - keep it somewhere in the zone between full and one quart low ("hash marks") at all times. And, if you have this engine in a performance application with high G loads in any direction, I would keep it closer to the full line then the one quart low at all times. And of course, I, too, strongly recommend the use of a quality synthetic oil and a quality filter. There really is no place for conventional oils any more in these modern engines especially considering how much is demanded of them. And if your engine is in good mechanical shape, stick to the manufacturer's recommended viscosity index. Old-school thick oil is a horsepower and fuel efficiency burner.. Regards, Restoration Rides Sent from my Z981 using Tapatalk
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