carnutdallas

This makes no sense. Check with a Credit Union. they may not have that limitation. Why spend any cash in the deal? You will seriously eliminate much equity if you trade it in. Sorry, i am just trying to figure out why you love the truck but at getting rid of it at a potential loss, to keep making payments? I have no idea on your financial picture and I am sure you have your reasons. You posed a question and that is my take on it; the math and money do not make sense. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You put a 5 gallon can in the back and drive it till it sputters. Not a diesel, so it fires right back up. Just plan accordingly. You really need to know, so you can trust your gauge. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You drive a gas truck right? You put gas in it and drive it. The vessel the fuel is in could careless what goes in it. Fill it up! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Replace the buttons [emoji16] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thank you, I was completely wrong. I thought they changed the frame? So it is only the abysmal interior. I had a complete misunderstand of the changes. I have been misinformed for the past 10 plus years!! My sincere apologies. GM did no favors on pile of crap dash, buttons, regulators, door handles, door panels and trim. Complete junk. I never knew they just updated the powertrain only. I mainly do not like computers and coding of the 2015 and up. I guess I have a lot to learn. I will add if you had replied with the above quote first, I would have shut up earlier, LOL. Merry Christmas! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Might be some confusion on your quote of me. The GMT800 and the GMT900 do not share the exact same chassis, especially in the 2500 and above. Not the frame specifically, but all the associated parts - brakes, trans, shocks, etc - the entire “chassis.” I was referencing my 2007 GMT800 Classic 2500HD the last and best of the GMT800. It shares almost nothing with the GMT900. 2007.5-2014 is the GMT900 HD vehicle with some nice upgrades in 2011 (2006+ is GMT900 1500 class) As a life long Chevy guy (and Dodge) I despise the GMT900 interiors as a whole, the exterior door handles, the engine issues, etc, etc. My truck was built in the USA, not a huge deal, but something I considered as the south of the boarder Dodges and Chevy’s seem to have quality issues. Now granted all manufacturers have quality issues and the GMT800 has its known weaknesses, but they are minor in my opinion and mainly are the result of service and Maintenance neglect. Chevy/GM screwed up and the best thing that can be said of the GMT900 was the the Transmissions and Diesels up until the 2009 plus range. The Brakes are great on a 900 as well. 4 wheel disc and less ABS issues. But alas, I made my choice for an 800 based on parts cost, easy DIY on almost every aspect. Simple computers and a host of other reason. Not trying to crap on this thread and my apologies if I am completely wrong, but my shared opinion was only relating to the last year GMT800 HD trucks. Now the 2015’s GMT K2xx are sweet, huge improvements, especially the 6.2. Great interiors. Love them, just not the price and a lot of “nanny parts/computers.” I cannot DIY as well. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I sold my 2014 Mega Cab Lariat 6.7 C and went to a 2007 Classic LT3 GMT800 6.0 4L80e. Loved my Ram. Was a great looking truck. Wanted to go to 6.4 Hemi POWER WAGON and could not justify a $40k plus truck. I hated the diesel around town. Hated the city drive. Towed like beast, but I used it as a 2-3 time a week commuter. Sucked in stop and go traffic. That is Damn 6.7 throttle and torque management, suuuucked!! So I bought the simplest, most reliable best built truck by Chevy and went the 6.0. Tow’s great. Gets 10mpg and at $1.85 a gallon right now, it is cheeeeeaaaaap to operate. My truck has 24k miles on it and looks brand new! Miss my Ram interior and modern stereo and heated and cooled seats, but oh well. Less to break. I wish my 6.0 was an LT3 with heated leather seats, could not find that with ultra low miles and I wanted low, low miles. So old school cloth..... All that above is to say, did not sell your truck for $100 a month. I sold my truck for $50k and bought the 6.0 for $26k, added new tires, brake controller and a hitch. It will last me for years at 3-5k miles per year. If you want a huge cash savings, less maintenance and simple, then look for a GMT 800 6.0. The 900 trucks have crappy dash, crappy door handles, crappy switch gear and valve train issues. You do get stronger frame and better brakes, even over 800’s. So think wisely before spending good money or a slight payment savings on a 100k plus mile truck that will have issues sooner than later and not be a 6.7 Diesel. Not a good trade. But going gas on a Classic 6.0 would be a wise move to save on fuel and maintenance, with mostly easy DIY repairs and all documented on this site if you can get low miles [emoji16] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

12 month Warranty per the listing [emoji23][emoji23][emoji23][emoji23][emoji23] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Some cars have to have an AGM. Our trucks do not, but the benefit is less susceptible to vibration damage. More efficient in the ability to charge and discharge. Charge faster too. https://www.intercel.eu/questions-and-answers/advantages-agm-batteries/ Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That is true that few manufacturers provide many brand names. But I think they do change parameters or ingredients depending on the brand name. The USA has very little battery manufacturing in our footprint. China and Mexico rule the battery world for cheap batteries. A quick Google search provides lots of different answers and older data. Johnson Control’s and Exide are the main source. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

As evidence above, everyone has opinions. That is all you are going to get here or anywhere unless you talk to an electrical engineer in the battery manufacture process. But a half price Walmart battery is the last thing I would personally buy. Glad it works for you, but I see no redeeming quality other than price and that does not make me feel good about a battery. Disclosure for me: I own a shop and sometimes sell batteries. I generally try not to, as most people want to be cheap and cry over a $200plus battery. My profit for said service is minimal and under appreciated. But with25 years under my belt, I have learned you get what you pay for and in the old days when we made batteries in the USA, Exide and Interstate where the best and then old Optima was the bomb. There are some good high dollar battery options, not sure of brand names, but science goes into it. I am really Intrigued by the new 24/48volt systems on some new cars - that should make a huge difference. But again, not buying a Walmart battery. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

3 words: Glutton for Punishment. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I buy from Oreilly and the house brand AGM. Not the cheapest, but I found great value for the money. Excellent warranty and good quality. I am out on Autozone batteries and warranty service. Advanced auto parts sells AC Delco and not terrible. Interstate has lost their quality. Most of my European cars I run a Bosch in. I have access to a wholesale only for those. Something to chew on. Good luck. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Have to act fast [emoji854] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

At less than 10k miles a year, how heavy a towing? I have a 24,000 mile 2007 Mint! 2500 HD 4x4 6.0 4L80e I can sell you. Cheaper parts, rock solid LS engine. 4:11 gears, but went up a tire size and now about 3.85 range which will help with MPG slightly if that matters. 8100 will be worse on mpg no matter what. I have had them all and went back and stuck with 6.0 trucks after diesel maint cost, 8100 parts cost and long term ownership cost. Wish 6.0 could have Allison tranny though, but 4L80e is great and solid. I looked at tons of trucks over 100k and said, nope. Only 50k or less for me. Mine is a museum piece but would sell for right price [emoji41] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk