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  1. This is an older thread...but man, it was so helpful when running a couple of new feeder circuits for a new switch box I installed that I had to post and say THANKS!
  2. Good information on the liners Slow...that helps explain the fairly rapid drying. Also good tip on the debris catchers...seems like all trucks tend to have those somewhere or the other. Fortunately for my Silverado, my wife volunteered to give up her garage space for her 2003 Expedition so I could put my truck in there instead. (God lover her!) So hopefully that'll help with the debris collection, although it still sounds like a worthwhile endeavor to engineer a way to mitigate the collection of debris and moisture in those areas. On the Silverado, I do see some evidence of GM addressing those types of issues (like the weather strip on the rear of the hood to prevent debris from entering between the hood and the cowling below the windshield). Still makes me wonder why the engineers can't come up with a preventive measure on those problem areas you mentioned. Surely there's a GM engineer somewhere that has owned one of these trucks in the past two decades or so that knows first-hand where the problem areas are! My 2005 Avalanche is showing early signs of a little decay in that ever-so-infamous junction of the rocker panels near the "C pillar" just forward of the rear fender well. Addressing that issue is on my radar now that Spring appears to be on our doorstep.
  3. That's encouraging, thanks for the response!
  4. Quick question for those of you who've had your K2XX Silverado for a bit: I've only had my 2017 LT Z71 for a couple of months, but it only had 788 miles when I purchased in December 2018. The truck is still clean as a whistle, so I'm just posting this question as a pro-active measure. I noticed the inner fender well lining appears to be a black material, almost reminiscent of indoor/outdoor carpet. I like the look of the material, and I assume Chevy used that texture to help mitigate road noise in the cab. However, it does cause me to wonder if the material has a tendency to hold moisture more so than, say a spray-on rubber based coating. I've noticed after washing my truck, the material does seem to dry pretty effectively, but hard to tell what moisture may be trapped behind it or around the edges. Has anybody seen any indication of rusting behind or around the fender well lining material? Thanks in advance for sending any information my way!
  5. I haven't seen this behavior on my Silverado (she only has a bit over 1K miles on her ), but I do experience this every now and then on my 2005 Avalanche. It may be apples and oranges, but my Avy also has dual zone temp controls similar to the Silverado. It is probably the blend actuator, as when it does occasionally happen, the air comes out in the correct place (defrost, upper vents, floor) depending on the setting, just not the correct temperature.Seems to only happen to me in warm weather, and the A/C continues to blow cold on the passenger side, but blows warm on driver side. With dual-zone temp controls, there's two blend doors. The only "fix" for my Avy (if you want to call it that) is to shut off the engine and restart, and (knock on wood) that will clear the symptoms. Intermittent issues can be a real PITA to nail down, you almost have to wait for a complete failure to diagnose. Next time you experience it, try shutting engine off and immediately restarting to see if it clears itself...I'd be curious if the behavior is the same I've seen out of my Avy. Good luck!
  6. It's all good! That's the great things about these kinds of forums...for the most part, the folks that put forth the effort to document and post their experiences for the benefit of others can come up with some great ideas and tips!
  7. Hey SK...I did see many of the other posts (before I even registered on the site), some great information around here. I didn't see any fixes similar to what I had engineered (although some were quite creative), and I wasn't sure which of those other threads to choose to reply to with my "new" fix, thus the fresh topic. Hopefully the mods don't mind too much if this counts as a "duplicate" topic. Just wanted to pass on what I hope to be useful information onto the masses in the most effective way.
  8. Hey everybody...I just now joined the forum just to pass along a decent, easy fix for the "flexing" gas pedal in the 2014-2018 Sierras and Silverados. I stumbled across this board researching this issue that I discovered on my new (to me) 2017 Silverado Z71 5.3 that I just bought about 4 weeks ago with 788 miles (yeah, seven hundred eighty-eight!) on her. Upon starting from a stopped position (such as coming off a stop bar at a traffic signal), I was a bit bothered by what I can only describe as a "hesitation" of movement of the truck, where pressure on my right foot on the accelerator that wasn't immediately (and proportionally) resulting in matching acceleration of the vehicle. This is the same issue described in other posts on this board that has been remedied with (among other things) by placing cut pieces of paint stirring sticks behind the plastic "anchor plate" that is affixed to the firewall, and where the accelerator sensor is bolted on to. I had plenty of flex in mine, on the order of probably 1/2" to 5/8" at least where the mounting plate would flex and finally "bottom out" against the firewall before the accelerator would begin to respond to input. The fix I came up with was a pretty simple one, and I wanted to pass it along: On the black plastic mounting plate (Those of you who have researched this issue probably already are familiar with this piece I'm referring to), near the bottom where the gas pedal mounting bracket is affixed, there is an unused hole to the lower left of the pedal bracket. I used a 1/4" x 20 bolt (about 1.75" in length) with a nut and washer pre-threaded onto the bolt, and slipped another 1/4" nut on the backside of the black plastic mounting bracket (using 90 degree needle nose pliers to hold nut in place while finger-tightening bolt...this was the most tricky part). This required trimming just a little bit of the floorboard insulation (see photo below) to make it easier inserting the nut behind the plastic piece. Then I simply tightened the bolt into the nut on the back side, which results in approximately 1/2" or so of the bolt protruding through the backside of the black plastic plate and bottoming out on the firewall. The result is MUCH less flex in the lower portion of that plastic mounting plate when pushing on the accelerator. I really was skeptical of how much difference this would make, but WOW...after driving it, the difference is NIGHT and DAY! That "dead zone" where I was having to push unnaturally hard on the accelerator pedal before seeing any response from the engine is GONE! Now I can lightly push on the pedal and the response is IMMEDIATE and smooth! Attached is a picture showing the finished product (sort of helps what I've tried to describe above). I should have taken a few more pics during the procedure, but I was sort of on a roll and didn't think about taking any until I was finished. Hopefully this fix comes in handy for others of you having this same issue related to the "spongy" accelerator mounting plate. Kind of disheartening to have to fix my ~$36K truck with a $0.50 nut and bolt, but at least it fixed my issue!
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