Bandit22re

Never mind It plugs into the vlom. Which is just a plate now. So it's just there. Hanging out. Sorry, I'm an idiot sometimes

I cant find a home for it. Wtf it's on the drivers side. Next to all the injector wires. Looks kinda the same but its 5 wires.

I believe you can floor the gas pedal and turn the key; the starter will spin but wont let it start. Then the oil gets pumped by the starter. Then once u have some built up, take your foot off the skinny pedal and fire it up

So clean

I'm starting to think this truck had an oil consumption problem from the first owner. I was planning on putting the oil deflector thing on in the oil pan but it already has one. I thought 2009 didn't come with it. I pulled the oil pan off and there was a lot of sludge on the very bottom by the drain hole. I drilled out the rivets on the gasket.

I couldn't get the timing chain to line up right with the peg in the camshaft. And the oil pump was in the way. How do you get the oil pump off? It's easier this way .

At first I thought I could do it without taking out the engine. You pretty much have to remove the engine. What a pain in the ass.

I've never heard of a new designed valve cover. I will try the original first. The cam lope is a degree or two off. Do I just tell the computer tuner this. Does it make a difference in the way it drives? The broken manifold bolt stuck in the head did not go like planned. The extractor chuck thing snapped it off flush. So I started drilling. Now I've drilled it out almost to size but it's off center. Only thing I can think of would be a dremel to grind. Turns out this is common and they make a clamp. So I'm just gonna put one of those on there. I got a gasket kit and bolts from toms auto on ebay. It took a while. I'll be putting it all together soon. Cleaning everything is a pain.

Hope this plastic wont melt

I ordered the lifters and trays. It was 80 bucks. Online. When I removed the head bolts they were hard to get out. Is that the lock tite? Because once I break torque or crack them loose, it doesnt really get easy till the last few turns. I usually run a bolt down the block till I can thread it by hand (to get rid or the crud) on other engines I've worked on. I dont want to chase the threads with tap, it is an aluminum block. Should I fill the holes with mineral spirits and try to clean them out? I dont like this degree torque thing. But it sounds fool proof. And I've heard other people reusing the gaskets and bolts. But I have new ones. So hopefully all goes well.

It's like a wheel on a car, it doesnt matter. Are you reusing the bolt? I heard it stretches. But it's really a compression fit. So once the pulleys on. The bolt just makes sure it can't come off

I've been slacking on the engine fix, but I pulled the head and the lifter was collapsed and the cam look ok from the top thru the lifter hole. The valley plate arrived in the mail and the casting on the alumnium looked horrible. There were surface cracks all over. It's hard to tell how deep they go. I dont think this is a structural piece. It's only to block the oil I think.( I've heard of others plugging it with a bolt.) All the parts should be here by next week. And it should be together in 2 weeks. Hope it works. Does any one have a recommendation on reprogramming the ecu. To bad I can't just hook up a USB cable and reflash it. Sounds so easy. If I had the software

Ok I ordered this cam. I noticed it has a groove in one of the bearing rides. That's in the picture of it. Another one I saw was solid. I dont think it matters. It did say it fit 5.3 express/Savannah. So I guess 4.8 ,5.3 it's all the same cam

Hi everyone, I just bought a 2009 silverado lt crew cab 4wd. 5.3 liter. Its got 160k miles on it. I purchased it from a good friend who owned it for 4 years. He sold it cheap because the lifter was collapsed. This is the flex fuel AFM engine. I've been doing alot of research. This particular motor is a LC9. And heads are marked 243. The engine was using alot of oil he said. But I never saw blue smoke out the tailpipe. My plan is to do the afm delete. And just get it running again, but try to keep the cost down as well. I'm to point now where I'm ready to remove the cylinder head. I plan on ordering the non afm lifters, the non afm camshaft. And a vlom block off plate. New head bolts. Head gaskets. I'll have to get the computer reprogrammed too. Where can I find part compatibility page? Another guy on youtube said ls7 lifters are the same and lowest priced. And an lm7 cam from a early 5.3 would work. do the lifter trays go bad? Any tips or tricks would be appreciated.