Thanks for all the input, and sorry for the late response. Seems like I used to get e-mail notifications when someone answers, but not anymore. Will probably have to move the vehicle about 30 feet to have some laundry room appliances delivered to the basement. Front differential & cv shafts are off the vehicle. Front shaft is resting comfortably on the sway bar. Was just trying to make sure front shaft doesn't try to turn when rolling vehicle while transmission is in neutral. I suspect that it does not, but wasn't completely sure. Sorry for being so cryptic.
I pulled the front differential on the '08 Avalanche recently to make a couple of repairs easier. Will be awhile before the jobs are completed. Doing all the work in the driveway. It occurred to me I may have to re-position the vehicle at some point; but, can't remember if the front driveshaft turns with transmission in neutral, and engine off. Realize it's relatively easy to pull the shaft, but would like to avoid it if it's not necessary. Any thoughts? Thanks.
In my opinion, you're looking for something like the Brian Tooley Torque Cam, designed specifically for trucks. Probably a better choice than any Stage 1,2,3 for your application. As long as your replacement cam doesn't have too much lift, the stock springs will probably perform well, beyond the life of the vehicle. Beehives usually can't make the same claim. Welcome to the world of $400 cams. Look on the bright side. You don't really have to change your factory springs.
So, just trying to make sense of all this. Can understand pulling the motor if a member is unsure of an engine's integrity. Not exactly sure why someone would remove this one, though. Not enough information has been shared. Surely, a buggered hole on one head would not be enough reason to resort to this extreme measure. Hard to believe that anyone who can pull an engine like that would need anyone else's help.
In 4th grade, our cool principal announced the death of JFK. Less than one year later, she allowed for the '64 series to be played in the hallways. To this day, I have appreciated this small gesture that, I believe, helped shape us. She seemed to recognize that our young minds weren't actually healed, yet. Not sure why I'm sharing all this; but, have never been a letter-of-the-law type of individual since. 1000 apologies to the OP. From JFK, to the '64 series, to Bob? Thank's for being patient with me, catching up with myself.
Thanks for pointing this out. Assuming the L33 would be the best choice if I wanted my LC9 to remain as close to stock as possible after the DOD delete. Another idea would be to upgrade to the Brian Tooley torque cam.
Seems like there's been an issue with lifter quality control & supply, for some time. Am willing to pay a couple of dollars more for something that won't fail prematurely, if necessary. Have had my 5.3 open twice to service a bad AFM lifter. Same thing. The roller goes, but the cam remains pristine. Wonder why? Well, maybe I finally figured it out. In my opinion, the weak point in this whole system is the lifter trays; and, I believe the AFM lifters are harder on the trays than their neighbors in the adjacent cylinders. Amazing how tight the standard roller lifters still fit into the tray, and how loose the AFM lifters seem to be. Not enough to spin, necessarily. Just loose enough to cause damage, perhaps. Anyways, first time in, I neglected to replace the trays. This time, a full DOD delete + new trays. Hoping for better results. Thanks for helping me think it through.
Hello Everyone, Noticed that Melling offers items such as LS7 lifters & timing chains for a fraction of what GM charges. Any opinions on the quality of any of these items? Have always had respect for Melling, but not sure what to think about this. Thanks for your help.
Hello Everyone, Was in a hurry over the weekend, and forgot to mark the position of my crankshaft pulley, before removal. I'm usually not this careless, but stuff happens. Am I screwed, or is the pulley zero balanced? Thanks for your help.
CamGTP pointed you to the perfect cam for your swap (12689035.) Also, buy the genuine GM lifter trays (12595365.) Probably wouldn't trust anything aftermarket, here. One more thing.......while it's apart, would lose the timing chain tensioner, and go with the the older-style dampener (12588670.) The tensioner will probably come apart, eventually.
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