Forklift Tech

Thanks for the response Davester. I did fail to mention that I had good battery voltage and the engine cranked normally. I did get back at it today. I decided to crank the engine long enough to see if a DTC would set. And it did. P0335 & P0336 both signal errors for the crank sensor. I ripped the starter back off and found that I hadn't fully seated the sensor. I lubed the ****** out of it and it went in really hard. Aftermarket crap... I decided to remove it and inspect the stator. The damn sensor pulled apart on me so I had to dig the rest out of the damn hole... I went and bought an OEM sensor and installed. Threw the starter back in and all the truck did was crank. So again, I checked for codes. Nothing... I allowed the engine to crank again for some time to try to set a code and it wouldn't. I got out my spark tester and had no spark. I pulled up AllData and checked the PCM to ignition coil setup. I found I had lost chassis ground to the ignition coils. Tomorrow I will find the ground location and check it out. I find it odd that it was starting then shutting down, although I suppose maybe the ground was in the process of breaking. I will find out tomorrow. SO, at the end of the day, my idiotic jump-to-conclusions self shouldn't have guessed at the crank sensor. I should have gotten my meter out in the first place... I know better, I guess I was being lazy ?

2003 Chevy WT 2500HD 6.0... No issues with this truck until now. 205,000 miles... I was driving and the "BATTERY NOT CHARGING" message popped up. Voltage gauge began dropping. I stopped at a local parts store and swapped in a new alternator. Started the truck and no problems. Battery was charging, I was happy. I got about 10 minutes up the road and the engine stalled. I threw it in neutral and cranked and nothing so I coasted to the side of the road. Threw the OBDII code reader on it and no codes were stored. Never could get it to start, towed it home. I fully believe that the alternator and this issue are two separate things but maybe I am wrong? I did unhook the alternator from the system and try to start the engine thinking it may have been back feeding and causing gremlins in the electrical system. I do not have a scan tool but may be able to get ahold of one. Once the truck was home, I found I was able to start the engine but it would immediately shut the engine down after a couple of seconds. I thought maybe the PASSKEY system might be failing, but when I insert and turn on the key, the light goes out within a couple of seconds, so this is telling me that the system is ok. ?? I connected a fuel gauge and the pump primes to about 55-60 PSI. After cranking, it holds steady at 45 PSI without dropping. Turn the key on and it pressurizes back up to 55-60 PSI. I unplugged the vacuum hose from FPR to see if fuel was getting through the diaphragm, and it was fine. I assume that the PCM may be killing the ignition system so I haven't actually checked spark. The truck was starting and would run great for a few seconds. On a whim, I went and picked up new crank and cam sensors to throw at it. I've seen these cause problems many times over the years so I figured I'd give it a shot. II started with the crank sensor and finally removed the bastard after a couple hours of hollering and screaming... I broke it and had to use the screw removal method... but, none the less I got it changed. Tried to start the truck and it just cranks. So I suppose I need to learn the damn thing. I have not pulled the cam sensor yet. I attempted to, but it seems to want to stay in there. I can twist it and wiggle it, just can't raise it. I gave up until tomorrow as I was getting angry again. ? Anyone have any ideas? The worst part... I was on my way to meet the buyer. I had it sold...