NWSierra

Yes. Save the time and the hassle and have a solid rear window installed like I did. The issue is the plastic frame of the window. It's worthless. If you read enough about this, they'll want to run you through the ringer of fixes like caulking or sealant, then back again for more, then maybe they finally give you another plastic window that'll break in X number of months. Forget all that. It'll take some explaining to these glass shops, most want only to replace with what you have OEM, i.e. another worthless plastic rear slider window. You'll find one that'll install a solid back window though if you're persistent. No leaks. Defrost works. Less hassle. Piece of mind. I live in the Pacific NW, can't have issues with leaks up here.

I had to play with mine for days, entering various measurements after trying to get it initially as accurate as possible until finally some far off combination of data calibrated. Camera's weren't 100% aligned, but it worked. Then the next time I used my trailer, got reset somehow and couldn't ever get it to calibrate again. The feature needs more work.

The harness and motor for the slider are still there. I put that all back so that if I or someone in the future wanted to put a slider in, they could do so, no issues. The defrost has no issues - slider actually has a harness for the left and right sides, that plugs into a single harness defrost plug on the truck side. The solid window is a single plug that then plugs into the truck-side single defrost plug.

Thanks all. That gives me a start. Appreciate it.

Any recommendations on a torque converter builder that can put together a billet Sonnax converter well? If it were a job I could do, I'd do it. I have limitations, lol. I'd pay, just looking for anyone with a good experience with a transmission shop doing custom work in WA or OR. I could probably get mine off, sent somewhere, but couldn't afford it coming back F'd and keeping my truck down for extended time. Interested in following up on a shop.

Went to solid rear window. really happy with it. Always liked the look even if it was less one upgrade option. The old window was a mess, cracked at the top/bottom of each "slider" section. Kind of shocking to see how bad of shape it was in - there was no amount of sealant/caulking that would have fixed that. defrost plugged right in. no leaks. awesome.

Yeah they're less than 10 bucks. I'll get one, but seems like this should have worked even without that. I'll report back. thanks-

Is there another way to reset TPMS outside of the steering wheel button through the tire pressure menu on the dash display? Tried that, won’t reset. Also tried the tire-by-tire method https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dc-xL23NSms. Long story: I have summer and winter tires that up until last spring I’d been having mounted when season’s changed. Last spring, I bought new rims for the summer so that I could swap them myself. I got Denali wheels, I *paid for* a set of new TPMS from a reputable tire shop up here in the NW and got my summer tires mounted on the new wheels. I thought I’d be set: stock SLT wheels have winters stock TPMS sensors, the Denali wheels have my summers and the new set of TMPS for the summer. When I picked up my truck in the spring everything was good, summer wheels on Denali’s, winters in the bed. No problems. Sure has S***, I swap summers for winters which is great, but TMPS won’t reset. At least, the steering wheel method of resetting TMPS won’t work. My paranoia has me thinking those new TPMS I paid for just got swapped over, but that’s an awful lot of work on 10ply tires… Is there a way to read if I had dead TMPS, or no TPMS at all before go in to the tire shop to raise hell?

Some talk here about whether this is from the window or scoop bolts. Pretty sure scoop bolts are fine for most of us - although the 15 or so bolts on the top of the cab needs to just go away in the next body/build/version, if only for piece of mind. I don't know who thought a scoop and 15 holes on a cab would be a good idea - but amazingly they seem NOT to be the issue (at least for me). Videos were too large to attach, but you can see what I found in a couple pics below - all bolts dry, window leaking in streams from the sides, cracks, etc. you take the trim and headline off, more easily seen how the outer portions of the window tag the headliner, somewhat makes it look like the leaks are above the window. Maybe some do have those scoop bolts leaking but mine came from 4 separate spots. Two are pictured below. Solid back window coming this week, through glass specialty shop. No dealership from me, too many times I've come back to pick up my truck with ten other things broken and needing repair. Learned my lesson there. I'll start a separate sting and stop hijacking this. I need to make sure I wire up defrost right (slider has connections for each side window, solid window will just have one set), and I am curious about an overhead console that deletes the button for the rear slider. It'd be nice to delete that button if I've gone to a solid back window.

I like the sound of those too. Dual's are probably half for looks, just partial to dual pipes on what I ride.

Same issue here. Four separate watermarks from streaming water down the back window. Enough water that the front mats were wet, from back to front - living in the NW, so it was raining pretty crazy a week back during a longer vacation trip, but in reading this I might ask the dealership about installing solid rear window. If they give me any confidence they can do it - hooking up rear defrost again correctly which I'm hoping still works, not damaging anything else and putting it all back together right, I'll report back.

There are three kits: 1. Outlaw - Most aggressive https://www.holley.com/products/exhaust/exhaust_systems/flowmaster/flowfx/parts/718111 2. American Thunder - mid aggressive https://www.holley.com/products/exhaust/exhaust_systems/flowmaster/american_thunder/parts/817933 3. FlowFX - least aggressive. https://www.holley.com/products/exhaust/exhaust_systems/flowmaster/outlaw_series/parts/818112 Who has had the FlowFX? Does it drone bad? I know, it's all relative, give me some feedback. On Friday afternoons after a couple beers I'm more along the lines of, "F-it. I'm getting the Outlaw kit". The 6 other days, I'm thinking FlowFX. I hate my moments indecision.

I installed a banks diff on my 2020 GMC (gas), 28k miles. I expected a little metal in the magnet. May have been a little more than I expected? I bought it used with about 23k, I don’t pull often or heavy, but I think the prior owner had a fishing boat it pulled most of its use from the added airbags and trip log left in the ECU. Any other things I should look at? Makes me want to drain and fill the trans fluid three or four times if not flush if you can do these like the prior body style.

I can't wait until one of my computer gizmo's to go out with no parts availability... - owner, fully loaded 2021 SLT

Rack.