Kyle Grasso

Hello I have a 2011 GMC Sierra with the automatic climate control and non bose stereo system. I have an aftermarket head unit installed along with a PAC steering wheel adapter harness model# PAC RP5-GM31. I have some high pitched electrical interference noise that comes and goes whether the engine is running or not. Just now I removed my head unit while the truck was running with the AC on because its very hot and humid here and the climate control stopped working as well as my gauges started going haywire. The only other thing I did besides unplug the head unit was to disconnect the separate ground wire from the head unit I had running to a steel brace on the floor by the drivers right foot. This got me thinking that maybe the HVAC controls and radio share ground wires and that is what may be introducing the whine noise I hear. Does anyone know how the grounds specifically for the radio, climate control, and other items in that dash harness are routed?

Yes I know that but what exactly are you programming? The vin is only giving very generic info about a specific vehicle so its not like your programming a custom fuel tune into an ecm. I just bought a FPCM out of a 2011 Buick Regal with the same 20191901 part # on it and it works for my 2011 Sierra.

Ok so I just learned my 2011 Sierra 1500 5.3 even has a FPCM when it died on me luckily while idling in my driveway. I know there are 2 or 3 part #s available for 2011 trucks and that they need to be programmed. Seeing as how I know this "programming" is nothing more than a simple set of parameters that it puts out for different fuel pressures I'm wondering why there is 3 different parts for just 2011? I'm guessing that there is also only 3 sets of parameters they used depending on which engine/trans your truck has. So other than just another manufacturer cash grab to do stupid things that could come already programmed for a reasonable price is there something I'm missing?

Hello I have a 2011 Gmc Sierra 1500 SLE with the non Bose system. It has what looks to be 5 1/4 speakers in all 4 doors(ex cab) and 2 tweeters in the a pillars. I have found the speaker wiring for the front doors that goes into a plug on each side of the dashboard but does anyone know how/where the wiring to the rear speakers routes?

Im closing on a new house January 6th with a 36x30 2 story garage built in 2019 out back. It has a brand new lift and pellet stove in there with a man cave upstairs! I figure I'll be living in there for awhile while I pull the truck apart and re wire everything. Lmao

Its not done yet but I decided to just go with a 2 wire alternator since I found a 300a for a good price. I hope I don't regret it but theres plenty of people out there running them with more power than I do. I have a 12" skar audio dvc sub in their ported enclosure running off a Skar 800w rms monoblock (sub is 600w rms). Then I squeezed a 4 channel amp under the rear seat mounted on the transmission tunnel hump thats powering the 2 front door speakers and 2 tweeters located on the dash. This is just a temporary set-up until I have the alternator installed along with upgraded wiring. Thats where Ive run into another hiccup with the 05+ trucks. GM decided to install a sensor on the ground wire from the battery that monitors voltage and helps the ECU control the alternator. If you add any grounds they must be run through this sensor or your alternator will overcharge. Im not 100% sure yet but I think you can upgrade/add grounds as long as they dont connect directly to the battery and bypass the RVC(regulated voltage control) sensor. My truck has the normal engine block to firewall ground thats not run through the sensor and im sure theres more somewhere. I plan to just swap these factory location grounds out for 1/0 wire instead and keep everything attached to the same location with exception of the 1 battery neg to the front of the engine. That wire will go directly to the alternator mounting bracket. Now on to whats going on with the fuse located on the positive batt terminal.. never thought replacing some battery cables would require so much research! Thanks GM!

Forgot to mention that the p103 tells the rvc system that everything is ok and normal so the battery light on dash stays off. The 4 wire alternator will work as it always has and provide a steady 14.2-15v

Well I figured it out on my own finally.. for future reference in order to run a 4 wire alternator on an 05+ 2 wire style alternator you need a p103 trickery device from mechman alternator. That plugs into the 2 wire alternator harness from your truck, then you get a 4 wire plug with 1 wire coming out and connect that to a switched 12v source somewhere at the underhood fuse panel preferably. Done

Hey guys I recently upgraded from a 2003 Silverado to a 2012 Sierra and need to upgrade my alternator for my stereo system. I have a 4 wire high output 250a alternator from my 03 but the 12 uses the 2 wire alternator. Is there a way I can properly hook the 4 wire up to the 2012 truck?

Great advice thank you! Ive seen the old rotor video and a couple where you knock out 2 lug studs and use a large bolt and nut to press the hub out. Ive tried the bolt method because I don't have a rotor to sacrifice. I do however have a pipe wrench I may be able to fit on the part the wheel studs press into. I can then use a bar over the wrench for more leverage. At the time I didn't want to damage the hub beyond re assembly and be stuck with the truck hanging out of the garage(doesn't fit all the way in). I have 2 new knuckles, 2 new hub bearings, and new bolts because 3 of mine are so bad I could barely get a socket to fit. Ill be attempting this again tomorrow.

Thats what I will try first but I don't think it will pop loose using the normal methods. This truck is extremely rusty and I couldn't get the hubs to budge thats why Im replacing the knuckles as well. Everything looks to be original and never taken out. I was thinking of using a pickle fork to put slight tension agaist the ball joint while whacking the side with a 3lb sledge. Ive already cracked the bolts loose on the ball joints and have been spraying everything down with pb blaster.

I have a 2003 Silverado 1500 and I am replacing the knuckles and hubs. I need to know the approximate diameter of the upper and lower ball joints. I want to buy some replacement boots in case they get damaged while removing the very rusty knuckles. Thanks

My experience with ABS a f slippery road surfaces had been a bad one. I literally almost totaled my truck Saturday because abs engaged and made me slide at a 45 degree angle heading for a guard rail. I had to release the brakes and then the transfer case shifted to 4wd and i could then hit the gas and drive out of the situation. The main reason i also want it gone is because everything else in the brake system has failed from contamination and im sure the Abs pump is no exception. Saturday in 1 inch of snow a moderate tap of the brakes would activate abs and send me sliding.

So I have a 2003 5.3 extended cab. I have always hated ABS and always owned older vehicles without ABS. Has anyone rerouted their brake lines with good results? I recently had contaminated brake fluid ruin everything rubber in the system. I replaced all the soft lines, calipers, booster, and master cylinder. I just finished the booster/master install today and cant get a good pedal. I bench bled the master by using 2 1/2"-20 fittings with 1.5" of line sticking out. Then clear hose tightly slid over the brake line and ran back up into the master reservoir. The brakes are working now but the pedal goes very far down and is acting like theres still air in the system. I would like to disable/bypass the ABS unit to eliminate it before chasing my tail looking at everything else.

Btw its a shame how rusted this body style seems to get. Ive owned multiple Chevy/GMC trucks ranging from 1989 to 1998 that were in much much better shape even with more mileage.

Unfortunately my truck is so rusted that even attemping to remove the bolts or tilt the bed would end in catastrophe! I swear the paint is holding most of it together. I think I may have finally found my issue though. Theres a rust hole in the outer ring of the gas filler. The metal part that you actually stick the gas puml nkzzle into. There seems to be an inner and outer sleeve to it so it never leaks fuel when filling up. I epoxied the hole and wrapped a piece of heavy hose around it secured with 2 hose clamps. So far no CEL! Havent driven it far though. Fingers

I went through and replaced everything as well only to then find out about the pressure sensor! I replaced the entire fiel pump at that time because it still had the original pump in it and was weak. I did not use a GM pump and you guys have me worried now. I guess I will just deal with it until the pump fails. The truck is severely rusted and has many problems so its not worth putting any more money into like that. Access panel for the pump you say? I cut a nice 14"x14" access panel into the bed floor for quick and easy pump access! Lol

I have visually inspected as much line and connections as possible so I guess smoke would be the next step. I have never done that before but theres a first for everything.. youtube here I come! Lol

Hello its been so long since ive been on here I forgot my username! Anyways I now have a 2003 Silverado 5.3 and have had more issues with this truck than all my previous GM trucks combined. Ive been chasing evap issues from the first day i got this truck over 2 years ago. Ive replaced the gas cap, vent valve, purge solenoid, and pressure sensor. That worked and kept the CEL at bay for awhile. Then I started getting a p0455 code when the fuel tank ran low only, except now it comes on anytime. After i clear the code it comes back within 30miles of driving. What should I check next? Thanks