martin31636

Morning cheby dudes, I have the lame blender door actuator bullcrap going on. I have been looking at the parts and checking the videos on replacing them. I am no newbie when it comes to mechanical maintenance. But. I am old and lazy. And not a small fellow. So working in and under that dash is an absolute nightmare. My fat paws are not going to fit and I see myself tossing tools across the yard. So I am starting to lean towards just bypassing the core. I have driven many shitboxes in my time and I think every heater core in every damn vehicle I have ever owned has failed. I am still new to the 2014 Silverado. My question is: Does the core flow have to complete/circulate? In other words could I just put a 2 way valve in the inlet side and block it during the summer? I am still trying to find schematics online on the piping. It looks like the core may be an alternate route like it doesn't have to complete for the coolant to flow. I'm sure I'm wrong and it's a normal setup. So I am now trying to plan a 3 way valve setup so I can bypass during the summer. And open it during the winter. The only time I use my heat is the 3 or 4 times we actually have a heavy frost and I need to get ice off my damn windshield. I'm in south Georgia so not having heat has never been an issue but it is nice to have on those rare occasions. Just curious if anyone has gone this route instead of dealing with those darn servos under the dash. That I'm sure will just fail again. Thanks Martin

Yes. Weather is all over the place down here. And yes. My truck is a daily grocery getter. 15 minute trips back and forth to work nothing more. It was thin.

Good afternoon gents, I finally got off my fat arse and installed my can. I think these pictures where around 7 days of collection. May be 2 weeks I honestly can remember. Maybe around 500 miles max. I'm in south Georgia right on the Florida line. We do have a lot of temperature fluctuations with humidity. This seems like an awful lot for such a short time. Means this has been going into my intake for 144k miles? This about normal for my year? 2014 Silverado 5.3 Thanks Martin

I never looked at the TSB honestly. II found the bypass issue during my research on the GM trucks. Looking into known issues. From what I have picked up the Bypass is on all the 6 speeds from 2014 to 2018. Just slide up under your truck and check. They are on the driver side of the tranny. You can't miss it. 2 lines coming out going to the front cooler. It's a very simple job. But if it isn't broke don't fix it maybe? If you tranny is operating fine and your temp is good, either it's been done already or you don't have the issue for some reason. I'm very ****** about all these little quirks. I try to be very proactive. Way to much money tied up in these rolling tin cans. There are a few options. Some do the "pill flip" where you take it apart and flip the plunger over. I don't like that option. It blocks flow. You can get an OEM replacement or the Superior Solutions kit. I went the kit route. I can't deny the results. Tranny went from 195 normal operation, not even pulling, to 145 normal operation. If you go with the kit also order the seal just to be extra cautious. GM part# 23135703. The lines have o-rings also which could break while working on them. Not sure on your mechanical abilities. Or what kind of garage you have. The spring clip on our fluid lines are called "Jiffy-Tite". They can be a royal pain to deal with doing it old school. Plus you can easily lose them. If you want to make easy work of those lines get the tool. There are endless options. Ranging from $5 Chinese plastic garbage to $9000 Snap-On. You know what I mean. I went ahead and went middle of the road and got this. Lisle 22990 Jiffy-Tite 4-Piece Low Profile Disconnect Set. About $70 on Amazon. Not necessary but sure makes quick clean easy work on all the different connections on our trucks. And now I have another tool for my collection. Shout if you need help.

Manufacturer: Chevrolet VIN Characters: 17 (beginning with MA6...) Decode: 7th character represents the MONTH of Manufacture 9th character represents the YEAR of Manufacture Month Codes: A = JAN B = FEB C = MAR D = APR E = MAY F = JUN G = JUL H = AUG J = SEP K = OCT L = NOV M = DEC Year Codes: A = 2010 B = 2011 C = 2012 D = 2013 E = 2014 F = 2015 G = 2016 H = 2017 J = 2018 K = 2019

I picked up a 2014 Silverado LT 141k miles in October. My first Chevy. I had to leave ford behind. The 5.4 was the final nail in the coffin for me. Anyways. I'm loving the truck so far. I did all my homework before deciding what I wanted to get. I actually didn't want one this new but all the 2004 to 2008 Crew Cab 4x4 trucks are priced ignorant now and for the past 2 years really. I just can't pay $15000 for a old arse Cat eye with 300k on it. Found this 2014 it checked all the boxes so I popped. My plans, god willing, is to drive the wheels off this thing. I did my tranny over the thanksgiving break. I installed the Superior Solutions kit in the thermostat. The transmission was stressing me out the first day I got it. Damn thing would run up to 195 just driving down the road. Now the highest I have seen is 160. Stop and go traffic. Interstate runs about 145. Good peace of mind now. The install is super easy. I also did my filter and flushed out all the fluid. Running fresh Amsoil now. Here are some good videos on the process. Don Smith has a lot of knowledge. Only pain part is getting that pan out. Damn engineers. I had to take the tranny lose from the crossmember and jack it up against the body. Still was a pain. I would suggest a buddy. I would not have been able to get the pan out by myself. I still had to pry the exhaust down while he yanked it out. I did not install a drain plug. I would suggest planning that if you are keeping the truck for any length of time. Or replace the pan. Huge cost difference between those options. She purrs now. Smooth shifts. I'm very happy with the outcome. I flushed it until it was clean fresh fluid coming out. Took about 16 quarts I think. I wanted to make sure I got it all out the converter also. That's including the fill. The magnet was clean nothing abnormal on it. I hope I got lucky. I will be doing my Front and rear next. Also hearing something about the drive shafts exploding at high speeds. I'm not drag racing my truck so I am probably safe but still something to keep an eye on. Luckily the previous owner deleted the DOD/AFM. I don't have any history on the truck. I am still learning a lot. I hope it was done the best way by replacing the cams and lifters etc. But I have not dug that deep yet. I could have an upgraded torque converter for all I know. Need to see if there is a way to peak in the bellhousing and check. Those are the 3 biggest bullet proof items I know of. Keep an eye on your sharkfin. They tend to leak if it hasn't been replaced. I did that a few weeks ago. Easy fix. Also have the AC condenser weld leak you may be dealing with. If your AC goes out check the right side of you condenser if it's wet that's the issue. Below are some videos on the AC issues. Sorry it's a little long winded. But we all have to stick together. If you take your truck in for the AC condenser they will try to charge you $2000 when you can do it yourself for maybe $300. I am loving the package chevy has put together in this Silverado so far. Hope some of this helped. Here is my girl. Damn sexy rig I must say. Nice and stock.