tannerga

Would lean towards 17/18s for more sidewall/better ride/ bigger contact patch/ my personal aesthetics, but inch for inch at that point wheels are way lighter than tires. This a weird combo of good advice for dead wrong reason and rambling nonsense.

Turns into a feedback loop with wheels/tires a fair amount, plus a whole bunch of other factors. Overall will come down to what are you trying to do/ how well you want to do it and how much are you willing to spend. Side dose of how much are you willing to cut on the body. If you get real aggressive with an angle grinder/ big hammer can run 35s with a spacer lift, but will have a better time if you do a 4inch lift and a little trimming, or a 6 inch lift and it just fits (mostly, depending on offset). Spacers and 33s is the easy/cheap mode for fitting a slightly bigger tire without much expense, if it's mostly a look/stance/slight offroad decision. If planning on beating on it offroad, would personally skip the spacer stuff and do a lift that corrects the cv geometry, budget pick there would probably be a zone 4.5" but there's options.

That is an awesome setup Vuk. Still can't commit to a cab rack. But I did find that a 2003 yukon/Tahoe rack fits up pretty nice to my ARE topper (which is actually from an 11 GMC then cut to fit later trucks, but it was available the weekend I wanted a thing to sleep in). They're a little flimsy for big loads, but been good enough for a basket/ kayak carrier when needed so far. Haven't found a solution I like for cab rack yet, so probably going to hit the junkyard again and do some chopping, probably pushing further forward and deleting the sharkfin when I get around to that project.

Had those wheels, but my lift (4 inch BDS/ fox coilover deal) didn't get along due to I want to say tie rod position, probably similar problems with the positive offset stock wheels with a lot of lifts, so would look into that. Could probably get away with a spacer, but just went with 0 offset steelies.

Is a thirsty pig, but has been fun to play with.

Wild guess based on owning a lot of GM stuff, your doors aren't hung right. Let the dealer look at it, but probably going to need to back off the bolts in the hinge assemblies and give the door a tweak. Pretty normal Chevy stuff after some years, showing up a bit early.

Hard to find a narrow 35 that I'd want to drive on the highway, but 35x12.5 ridge grapplers. (4.10s would be a better match if I wasn't building a dumb thing) Also carry around an extra probably 800 pounds between a decked, camper shell, and stuff that lives in it, just 4 inch bds on the lift and aftermarket bumper/ some fender trimming to fit the tires, but enough that it's worse than the usual brick going down the road. Obnoxious tow mirrors going on for boat/ trailer reasons. (Don't think I towed anything in that 13 average over the last 50, but maybe had a kayak on top of it Monday and lifetime since the lift/other dumb stuff via trip odometer is 13.9 last I looked (to be fair, more towing, off-road, and general not highway than most over those 10kish miles). If I have to start going to an office again, will buy a beater civic or something, but mileage was not a design concern. Beater civic would also give me an excuse to start with the engine work, so I expect mileage gets worse after that.

Issues somewhat overstated. But big few would be, I guess, AFM, and trans stuff. Can half fix both with a tune to disable AFM and keep the torque converter from trying to lockup up before 5th and 6th. For actual fixes, update/bypass the transcooler thermostat and replace lifters/ valley pan/ cam. The AFM delete opens up a lot of while your in there kind of stuff, that would end up costing me somewhere between 2 and 10grand+ (if already doing valvetrain work, may as well go ahead and buy that 3l whipple is how my brain tend to flow), but actual parts needed are probably 3-500 bucks if you shop right if you diy.

35s w/ 4.56 and a bunch of other dumb stuff going on (nothing besides gears mechanically yet, but extra weight and drag). Average is I think 13 if computer can be trusted/ was corrected right, can do 18 or so on the highway if I keep it under 70, but aero becomes a problem. Never really cared about mileage with this thing tbh.

4.10s is probably the answer with 35s as these guys are saying. Did 4.56s and it's a little extra compromised on the highway.