Mfunch96

Considering adding an additional battery in my 05 Silverado. My intention is to take the add on accessories I have ((Amp for speakers, Roof mounted Spotlight, and power inverter)) to their own dedicated battery to reduce strain on my starting battery. I see many different threads on this on separate pages but can not make sense of the “isolator”. The product that (I think) is what I’m looking for is here https://www.painlessperformance.com/wc/40103 along with motor trends techs installing it https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/1903-project-overunder-part-9-adding-dual-batteries-and-a-high-output-alternator/amp/ what I can’t understand is , for example, will the backup battery always be charging when the alternator/engine is running. The product shows 3 different modes the isolator can be in… that’s what is causing my frustration. I don’t need a full 24v being sent to my starter when I start the engine I just want to take the load off of the starting battery from unnecessary drain in the instance that I play the radio too long and possible have a dead starting battery. but also do not want the amp to always being fed power even with the key in off. (ACC position would be fine) would the isolator always have the 2 systems separate? Or is it up to the user to swap switch between disconnected vs allowing the charging/use of backup battery.

Question pertaining to the shocks. I have noticed lately a much stiffer ride, albeit the roads in my area are anything but smooth. However, on highway driving the bumps seem more pronounced than prior. -Toyo open county MT (no lift) -no heavy hauling (daily driver) - no real off-roading besides an occasional trip into a wet pasture when 4wd may be needed. I have had shocks replaced once in the trucks life (255,000Mi) with OE replacement. How would a full set of double tube shocks affect the ride vs a new set of mono. Almost pulled the trigger on some Billstein 5100s. Heard good reviews on their product line. Just curious if sticking with mono would be better than changing up and getting a set of the double tube shocks. Anybody have any experience with attempts to smooth out the ride. I know it won’t drive like a Caddy but any thing is better than having the ass end thrown to the side, and knocking the dome lights out the ceiling liner when hitting pot holes.

-2005 Silverado 4wd -5.3L vortec L33 -112,000 miles - no after market mods other than exhaust work done early in trucks life (headers and true duals) - regular oil and fluid checks/ changes - besides a slight lifter tap nothing abnormal about drivability. ( faint lifter tap been ongoing for years) En route to work one morning about .25 miles from the house, truck began making very noticeable knocking, I immediately turned around and parked in garage. Until I had time to diagnose problem. upon inspection - correct fluid levels -oil pressure at idle (40lb) and holding (oil pressure sensor replaced last year ) - sound seemed to be coming from passenger side toward firewall -no noticeable shavings in oil -DTCs (cylinder misfire, 02 sensor, fuel evap ) For the DTCs both fuel evap and 02 sensor has been triggered for a year probably. The cylinder misfire may have been an old code a month prior to this knocking from when my catalytic collapsed inside itself causing horrible drivability and totally restricted exhaust flow on PASSENGER side exhaust. This was fixed soon after cat collapsed (10 miles) to make it home -removed catalyst -welded exhaust back where catalyst was removed - checked manifold gaskets —- this may have caused cylinder misfire code to still be triggered truck drove normally for about a month after inspection I ——replaced —- -head gasket - lifters (hydraulic roller) - push rods - valve cover gasket - intake manifold gasket - new IR plugs (gapped) - rocker arms left alone as were in good condition upon reassembly and fluids topped off and oil primed through system before fuel pump fuse reinserted. —— - truck started normal but knocking was still present. - oil pressure normal -cylinder compression test showed 135lb ~2% on each cylinder - oil and fluids normal -all this has been checked at idle - it seems like the knocking sound seems to dissipate as the idle increases though still noticeable. As mentioned the knocking is loud, very noticeable at idle rpm. Haven’t driven it any distance and want to try avoid attempting to drive to mechanic (tow truck is an option but want to avoid throwing money away on something I can fix myself. ) - no codes are showing now after top end work I did. But knocking is still present as it was before head work. Any advice or suggestions on how to diagnose what else i could do to diagnose the problem. I have a code reader but nothing that will give live feedback. New here so hope the is formatted and in correct forum to get some guidance on this problem. Love this truck and the L33 engine in it would love to get this problem resolved without an expense trip to a mechanic. thanks!