I'm getting the gist that the slotted/drilled rotors are used by enough people that they look like the solution. I'll check on the Powerstop and EBC. Congrats on Eagle. Yes, I spend a fair amount of time explaining to Scouts the fact that life speeds up when you hit 16 (job, girls, school, college prep...), so don't procrastinate advancement.
Two reasons: I don't own the trailer.... 1) Technically, the trailer is past it's service life, I believe it to be close to 10 years old, with a large amount of mileage. I can't see putting funds into it that can be saved for a new one. I'd estimate the trailer is worth ~$1500 or less, and trailer brakes would be anywhere from $500-$1000. Although I do my own automotive work, I would not feel comfortable with the liability of working on a trailer that belongs to an organization. I'd have to have a shop put the brakes on, and so far my impression of the shops that work on trailers would be "professional wallet rapers". I actually had a quote for fix a small, dime size leak in the roof for $1000. 2) I would also have to argue for spending money on the added maintenance costs/year. It's Boy Scouts, and there isn't a whole lot of extra cash. The trailer is a luxury to begin with. It's a really cheap trailer model, and the company that makes it, Pace, isn't even in business anymore. I will lobby for brakes on the next one. Updating the GMC seems like an easier move.
Good advice. Yes, I use the haul mode, and I'm doing more of the downshifting. Your trailer looks identical to the one I'm pulling. I probably have to slow a bit, and work the compression braking more. I won't buy bigger rotors if I can't fit them inside the OEM wheels because new tires + a brake package is just too much $$$. Thank you for the feedback!
Hey guys, I'm currently towning around a 6x13' single axle cargo trailer. My 2008 SLE with the towing package pulls it fine, but stopping is a PITA. The trailer probably weighs 3000 lbs loaded up, and since this is for boy scouts, we tend to end up on twisty road with lots of elevation changes. They could use some of my trips as a GMC advertisement for toughness. The trailer does not have brakes, and can't be fitted with them. I'll work on adding that for the next trailer..... I smoked the OEM disc setup in the front. Warped the rotors/nuked the pads. It's OK, because they were close to done anyway. My current setup is Autozone Duralast Gold rotors and ceramic pads. They work OK, but eventually they do get a lot of fade. I searched the forums, but the brake threads were old. Looking for advise on how to beef up the braking. Bigger rotors/bigger brake kit? The kits I'm seeing are drilled/slotted, which I don't think is the way to go for a towing rig. Anyone tow a lot and run into this? I have the OEM 17" wheels. Thanks, John
In order of priority if you are GM: 1) Keep the govt off our back 2) Mitigate any lawsuits 3) Find the absolute cheapest way to fix the issue 4) Preserve the function of the truck GM's solution to the heated washer fluid problem: Cut the wiring harness, rip out the accessory in the truck and hand you a check. I went with a different approach, called the manufacture of the heater for the fluid, got their updated unit that fixed the issue, installed it, and I have heated fluid like the truck should have. See a difference?
I have a 2008 Sierra, 5.3 iron block extended cab and got the notice. My truck is stock, no aftermarket, but I still worry about the fix. I have been f*cked by recalls before, where the fix for the recall was worse than the "problem" they were fixing. Sometimes the recalls are more political/PR than reality. I'd like to know more about the issue before I have GM reprogram the computer.
Yes, you can. It's called throwing money away. 1) To my knowledge there isn't a single automobile company that recommends 3K as the change interval, including GM. Most are 5-6K. The 3k number was invented by the Jiffy Lube's of the world to get you to spend more $$$$. 2) I've owned a lot of cars, and know a ton of car people via boards. I'd be willing to bet you can't find a single instance where an engine failed in less than 200K miles because the owner changed the oil every 5K instead of 3K. I'm amazed the crooks at the lube places haven't started recommending to 1K!
This is somewhat silly logic. We got by without anti lock brakes, halogen headlights, and electric starters. 100 years ago we got by without cars and trucks too. You can say that "it's not the end of the world" to anything, but why does that make the option less valuable to the person that liked it? Personally, by the end of the winter, this puppy saves me hours of scraping the windshield, so, yeah, I paid for it, like it and use it. Feel free to bail out of this thread and find other threads and crap on their options. Maybe those crazy guys with the fancy audio thingies that make music come from the doors.
OK, just finished installing an Alphatherm AT37GM to get around the heated washer recall, and wanted to post a few notes to answer questions and save people a few minutes: 1) This install is cake, if you can change your oil, you can replace the heated washer part. Should take 1/2 hr or less. 2) The part looks EXACTLY like the old one. This made me a bit annoyed, as there is no way a tech could tell that I upgraded the unit. They could have added an extra bump in the plastic mold, or stamped the model number on the part more prominently. Now I have to make sure my GMC tech doesn't do the recall and pull my new part! Maybe a fluorescent sticker is needed.... 3) IMHO: if the original problem occurred in something like 10 trucks out of 1.5 million, and with the better replacement unit lowering those odds, the problem is fixed in my book. 3) Installation notes: Remove the corner brace to make life easier -- it's the only 4 bolts you need to remove to do the job Before you put the brace back, grab the extra hose they provide in the kit, and attach it to the "out" nipple of the Alphatherm. Add washer fluid to the reservoir, and put the other end of the hose in the washer fluid bottle you just emptied. With the unit clipped onto the firewall, prime the unit, then push the button and test to make sure it's heating properly by feeling the fluid as it hits the inside of the bottle. The sounds stupid, but when it's 90+ degrees outside, there's no easy way to tell if the unit works by spraying the windshield. It's also real easy to switch the in/out hoses by mistake. Again, these might sounds like common sense, but it takes 1 minute to read this and it might save someone 10 minutes of futzing. John
I too have this issue. I've had the truck, an 08 sierra for a year now, and this is the only defect (save the lint fest seats), so I'm pretty happy. It almost sounds like metal scraping the glass when the driver side window goes up -- I half expect the window to come up with a gouge soon! That felt is really stiff, but it seems like adding any type of lube to the felt is only going to end up spooging the window. I'll let you know if the TSB cures mine.
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