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Drives

Found 9 results

  1. Hi all, Long time lurker who finally created an account. Y'all have been a wealth of info and I really appreciate it. I have a 2001 Tahoe LT Autoride with the 5.3. My father-in-law bought it new and I bought it from him when he upgraded to a 2019 Tahoe Premier. I've been going through the Tahoe since buying it from him. It was always maintained at the dealer and serviced at every interval. The issue I am having now is a hard start when cold. It takes at least 2 cranks to get it started in the morning or after a long period of not driving. I have searched the forums and found some help but no threads with results. Here is what I have done so far to remedy the issue. -New plugs -New fuel filter -New fuel pump -Techron in tank (one bottle so far) I have a new fuel pressure regulator coming and will swap that next but the telltale signs of failure aren't there (gas leaking through vacuum line). The truck had one other issue that has since been fixed. It would overheat (on the gauge) on hot days mainly at low speeds and belch coolant when turned off. I ended up replacing the fan clutch, coolant temp sensor, expansion tank, thermostat, and expansion tank cap. Any advice would be hugely appreciated! Thanks all!
  2. 1997 5.7 Vortec intermittent slow start revisited. Short version: I have a 1997 Express with a 5.7 Vortec and the CSFI system. It has 130k miles. It is hard to start after sitting. If I pulse each of the fuel injectors with an injector tester then it starts right up. Problem description is mostly in next post. The test procedure that makes it start is in the third post.
  3. So I have a 2106 3.6 Colorado. She's been flawless for 65,000 miles. Now I have two issues that I hope are related. With the absence of codes I'm looking for anyone who may have had a similar experience. After refueling when the tank is real low (reserve light on) she cold cranks for several ignition switch cycles before starting. This ECM has not thrown a code to date. No CEL. This only happens after refueling when the tank was really low. Kinda scary 500 miles from home. Maybe a stuck evap solenoid? About the same time this started, I started to get a low idle stumble after running at interstate speed. The low idle stumble is also intermittent. Again no codes. Was just bragging to a Ford guy about how reliable my Colorado and my Duramax have been, then this! Anyone have anything on this?
  4. Please help!! 2008 GMC Sierra. 4.8. Replaced fuel pump and FSM last year. Replaced evap solinoid last week. Truck doednt want to start. Turns over on first try. Then starts on second try. Could it be a fuel sensor on fuel rail?
  5. Please help!! 2008 GMC Sierra. 4.8. Replaced fuel pump and FSM last year. Replaced evap solinoid last week. Truck doednt want to start. Turns over on first try. Then starts on second try. Could it be a fuel sensor on fuel rail?
  6. My 2011 Sierra, 169K miles old, just started to stumble on cold starts about 2 weeks ago. Today I got the P0175 code. There's plenty of troubleshooting to do for that code and I'll start on it asap (it's cold in MI). This is the first issue I've had with the motor ever and am wondering if one event could be causing this. About 5 weeks ago I inadvertently filled up with 93 octane. That was the first time in 479 fuel fill ups that I've deviated from 87 octane. The motor has always started on the first turn whether with key or remote start since new. But in the past month it takes a couple of turns to start up and occasionally stumbles once before smoothing out. There might be a slight miss at idle, but driveability is still good and no lack of power. The P0175 today was the first SES code to come on. It's got a K&N airfilter since 1k miles and the only other change has been plugs and wires at 160K. Thoughts? Help? Thanks, Mike
  7. Hey guys, I'm new to the forum and looking any suggestions on a problem that has me stumped with my avalanche. It has a hard start condition. It seems to be related to the outside temperature. I didn't do it all winter and started back as the weather warmed up. It starts fine if the engine is completely cold and it starts fine if you crank it within about 15-20 minutes after cutting it off. If I cut the truck off and let it sit for two hours and try to start it it cranks for several seconds before starting. it's a 2004 with the 5.3. It doesn't have an inline fuel filter or a fuel pressure regulator on the fuel rail. Everything is in the tank module, which I have replace with a new AC Delco unit. I have also replaced the evap vent and purge solenoid. I'm going to try a crank sensor just for the heck of it tomorrow. It doesn't set any codes. Does this sound familiar to anyone. Any suggestions would be much appreciated!!
  8. My 99 with 5.7L is really hard to start when it has been sitting for a few days (usually at least 3 days). It cranks over, but seems to run into resistance each time around. If I crank and hold it for about 5-10 seconds, it will fire, but what seems like only on a couple of cylinders, then dies. Sometimes, it seems to backfire. If I keep trying, It *does* eventually start (just the other day, I think it took about 20 tries over a few minutes to get it to start. Once it starts, it runs rough for about 10 seconds, then runs fine. I've checked the fuel pressure and it's fine (about 60 PSI), even after sitting for a few days. If I drive it for at least 10 minutes, it will start fine the next day. If I let it idle for 10 minutes, it's not enough to make a difference the next day. One of the weirdest problems I've ever encountered, for sure! When driving it daily, or maybe letting it sit for one day, it starts right up with the normal crank time. After talking with another mechanic, we were thinking it could be fuel leaking from the FPR into a cylinder, or two. My gas mileage was down, too, so we replaced the FPR (and the spider injector assembly, as well). We found evidence of leaking fuel, but it didn't fix the hard start problem. The mechanic that replaced the FPR/spider injection was talking with a buddy and suggested it could possibly be the Crankshaft Position Sensor (mentioning that there was a TSB for that sensor; though I haven't been able to find it). The thinking is that if the crank sensor is not working right, it could be throwing the timing way off and trying to fire at the wrong time. I've been having this problem for the past 3 years. Has anyone else had this kind of problem? Does it make sense that a crank sensor could be the cause? I've tried throwing parts at problems, before, and I can do that again, but I know it's always better to diagnose. However, this one seems pretty hard to diagnose and it sets no codes when it happens.
  9. Does the 99 5.7L Vortec have a cold-start injector to help get the engine going when it's been sitting overnight or for days and days? My older car has one and I'm having a hard time starting my Yukon after it's been sitting for a few days, so I'm just wondering what is supposed to give the engine that little bit of extra fuel when you're starting it cold?
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