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About OldDirtySpartan

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  • Location
    Austin, TX
  • Drives
    2001 Chevy Tahoe LT Autoride
  1. Well it was still stumbling pretty bad on cold starts. 2 days ago I replaced the intake gasket. That seems to have cleared it up. As a side note, the EGR pipe that comes into the intake on the passenger side right after the throttle body is a PITA to seat properly after pulling the intake. I had to unbolt the EGR valve assembly and rebend the metal piping to get the new EGR rubber gasket to seat properly.
  2. Seemed to be fine today. Final check will be tomorrow morning. UPDATE: Checked this morning. It stumbled a little but only needed one crank to start. Maybe I just didn't have the key turned long enough. On another note I was looking at picking up a 2017 Yukon XL Denali with 90k miles and wondered if anyone had pointers on what to look for. I’ve been reading up on transmission issues with the 8spd but I don’t know if the 6.2L has that trans. Thanks!!
  3. To get it to start I had to release the pedal. It would not start with any pedal input. There has never been an issue with the car dying while driving, hard starting when warm/hot, or rough idle once warm. UPDATE : New AC Delco idle air control valve installed just now. Tahoe fired right up on first crank. Idle jumped up to close to 2k then leveled out back at it's old value. I will give it another crank when it cools back down but this made the most noticeable change from all the other things I have done.
  4. OK. I just tried that. While starting I pressed the pedal down slightly. It would crank and then die, I tried multiple times with the pedal pressed and cranking and it would die. Then I tried just cranking again and it stumbled, started and then ran fine. Does this mean there is another issue?
  5. So it's been a few days and the Tahoe is still hard starting when cold. I have the idle air control valve on order. Any other items that may be causing this? I did replace plugs before this all started and they were dry.
  6. UPDATE: Cleaned MAF and throttle body. It definitely helped. There is still a stumble and a slightly long crank but it's slowly getting better. I'm bummed to not have a quick fix but at the same time if I am replacing the OE parts after nearly 20 years, I'm happy to get another 20 out of the work done. Plus my other car is an electric BMW and there's nothing on it to tinker with On another note. I replaced the rear diff gasket and noticed the drain plug o-ring/seal is cracked, anyone know the PN?
  7. FPR went in and the cold hard crank time is almost completely fixed!!! It does still stumble for a few seconds before smoothing out. I plan to get MAF cleaner, and carb cleaner sometime this week to clean. I'll update after! Thanks all
  8. Hi Cam, thanks. Do you have a MAF cleaner you recommend? I am running an AEM Brute Force Intake.
  9. Thanks riverbanks. I cycled the ignition 5 times. It did start on the first crank but it stumbled pretty badly until getting to a good idle. UPDATE: I removed the pressure regulator vacuum line and gave it a sniff. There is a very strong gasoline smell. Does this mean it failed?
  10. Hi all, Long time lurker who finally created an account. Y'all have been a wealth of info and I really appreciate it. I have a 2001 Tahoe LT Autoride with the 5.3. My father-in-law bought it new and I bought it from him when he upgraded to a 2019 Tahoe Premier. I've been going through the Tahoe since buying it from him. It was always maintained at the dealer and serviced at every interval. The issue I am having now is a hard start when cold. It takes at least 2 cranks to get it started in the morning or after a long period of not driving. I have searched the f
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