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Drives

Found 3 results

  1. A week or so ago I noticed a ticking after my truck was warmed up at idle. Well a few days went by and my truck started to misfire as I accelerated from a stop clearing up once i got up to speed. Along with a flashing check engine light I had the codes P0300, P0455, P0306. The next day I bought a new evap solenoid canister hoping to get rid of the evap code. After installing, I still had a misfire and a ticking coming from the passenger side bank. I plugged in my code reading and watched cylinder 6 consistantly misfire at idle. After replacing the plugs, checking the injectors, coils, and wires I thought i may be having lifter problems as cylinder 6 is an AFM cylinder. I pulled the valve cover off to check for a loose or stuck rocker, everything seemed fine. I fired up the truck and the rocker arms all looked to be operating fine. The truck also didnt seem to have a rough idle and wasn't ticking. I put everything back together backed it out of the garage and it went right back to its old ways. I cant seem to figure out the problem and was wondering if anyone else has heard of this or experienced it? Seems to be worst when I put the truck in drive or reverse and hold the brake(rough idle along with a misfire.) Any help or guidence would be appriciated!
  2. Long Story. 1980 and a few months before standing on yellow footprints, in high school auto shop class, Mr. Collins saw I was having difficulty mating a transmission to an engine. Called me out from under the wagon, reached into his pocket and pulled out 30 cents and told me to get a soda. Mr. C was a quiet man and often taught us without saying a word. I complied, bought a soda added Cheetos, walked to the back over-viewing the canal. Finished, crawled back under the problem and withing 30 seconds the bits magically lined up and I moved on with the build. He knew I needed a break before I did. Fast forward eight years, snapping in a new crew maintaining F-18's, one of my Marines having difficulty installing a fuel pump on a gearbox, so I reached into my pocket pulled 50 cents and told him to get a soda, he stared at the coins, looked bewildered, however me being senior complied. Coming back from the break, told him how to position his body and what Zen like hand force would pop it into place without buggering the o-ring. When you can, pass what you learn to the replacements. Late 2015, returning from my cave analysis of gas vs diesel chose the 6.0 2500HD for my business installing pack lines in processing plants. Using a Truck Camper and 20 foot equipment trailer, I stay on-site till the job and training is done. This means 98% of this trucks' life is at payload, pulling 10k pounds, making money every time I get in it. Current mileage 190,090. Until 185K my rig serve faithfully, except for a craced brake line connection near the differential at 114K miles in Michigan. Did a combat repair late Saturday afternoon before the town shut down and every auto parts store didn't have the firing solution...which came from all places, a muffler shop...then drove to KY for a Monday meeting to close on another pack line...but that's another story. Starting hearing a tick on start up, but after warm up it would go away. Inspected exhaust manifolds and noted driver side rear bolt head was gone, carbon was on the head and needing the truck for work, opted for the Kral manifold clamp. Drove another 5K on the the truck, but no luck stopping the tick...knew the easy way was over and next step was pulling the exhaust manifold. Also starting getting a intermittent P0306 and P0303. Removed the exhaust manifold and the warp was troubling, but I foolishly tried to file out the warp and replaced manifold gasket then reinstalled. Still ticking, the last gasp was a motor flush hoping something would magically free a lifter and all would be well. Nope, still had the tick and getting louder, knew after 39 years of not seeing the inside of a V8 valve cover, what I had to do. Now for young folks, removing valve covers may not seem a big deal, but 39 years ago vehicle maintenance didn't include ECM's, rocker rails, hydraulic roller lifters, fuel injection on cheap cars, OB code readers, variable cams /sensors, or electronic ignition. If one said, some day in the future each cylinder will have its own coil pack, that would be grounds for throwing you out of the shop. Pulled the valve cover, still no clue then proceeded the rocker rail. There it was...source of the tick...missing valve tip. Still had some key metal so maybe I could have gone another 2K miles but sometimes you get lucky and save a motor. Down that far, opted to pull both heads, replace exhaust valves springs, seals, lifters and buckets. Cam was good. Cleaned carbon off the pistons using Gunk Motor Flush and removed rubber stuff remaining on the block. On the advice of my head re-builder, replaced gaskets with AC Delco OEM. Reassembled the heads. Note rocker replacement. Purchased from Summit and had to sign a waver stating it was a performance part and must be used off road. Although its a GM part number and not aftermarket, played the click here game and received them without enviro-police showing at my door. Since the block remained in the truck, opted for ARP bolts so I didn't have to mess with angle torque near the firewall. Have to say at my age, 89 foot pounds laying horizontally, in the Superman position over the grill just about kicked my ass. Torquing clam-shell jet motor mounts was a lot easier. Less I forget...if your going to tackle this job...get the thread chaser. This was residue after cleaning with brake cleaner and blowing air into the threads Driver side Exhaust Manifold (Dorman) from NAPA went on without issues, however the passenger side (ATP) from Rock Auto was a bust. Removed from plastic, lined up to the head and missing #6 exhaust flange. Air bubble in the cast. Shipped back to Rock Auto, they refunded my coin. Pulling off the passenger manifold heat shield and showed a nice 3 inch crack. Most likely the reason for the P0306. But to be safe, replaced the coil and fuel injector. Off to NAPA for a manifold (Dorman) but again another problem. Manifold made in China, doughnut seal made in India, parts assembled in Mexico...what could go wrong? Exhaust doughnut was too small. Back to NAPA dragging the old manifold, explained problem to two hard charging ladies who knew parts. They sourced the right doughnut (Fel-Pro 61694 2007-12 - replacing 20987829). Next time I'm opting for stainless headers. Final PITA issue was brand new AC Delco 7mm PERFORMANCE wires missing a spark plug clip. Clue to the problem was written on the box. Assembled in Mexico. There's no quality control when your paying $3 and hour. Oh...back in my day Valve Covers were made in the US, now its Mexico. Explains overpriced trucks and the bi-annual 20% discount on new trucks. Refilled engine oil, noted dip stick was missing, reinstalled, bled the fuel rail and the 6.0 fired right up. Two hesitations clearing remaining air, warmed up and settle into a good smooth idle. Then heard a usual sound, not quite a tick or a tap so I shut it down. Checked the dip stick and the level was higher than normal, then realized I put 4 additional quarts into the motor. Pulled the drain plug and was horrified seeing a milky tan streaming into the oil pan. Oh crap leaking radiator fluid in the block, really thought I mucked up the head gaskets. Then smelled the oil and noted that kerosene motor flush and realized it oozed past the rings while cleaning carbon off the pistons. Two oil changes later, all is well and idles smooth. Did a forty mile loop, no leaks, radiator level steady, and oil clear. All bolts and parts accounted for except one nut. Most likely goes on the intake manifold but not worrying about it. After 39 years, I can still tally up details of a top end rebuild while working my way around a small block. I can say what we dreamed about in performance parts producing higher horsepower and torque back then, is common today. Spark plugs lasting 100K miles (mine went 130k). Rear oil seals intact, MAF sensors, billion cycle fuel injectors, plastic intake manifold, variable cam geometry, 185K on an engine working hard without failure and requiring only regular maintenance. These are great days and bless Chevy for continuing to upgrade its small block giving power to people making coin using their engineering. Also thank the internet. Anytime I had a concern or wanted more information, this site, LS1.com, Youtube was available along with ordering parts that kept overall cost below $1300. A lot lower than a diesel rebuild, but then again most likely wouldn't have lost a valve tip.
  3. 2014 SLT Crew Std Box with the 5.3 and 5855 miles on the clock. Monday 22nd...the Engine started to run rough after a 50 mile round trip, CEL flashing, limped it a few more miles home on back roads. GM Roadside assistance towed it to a local dealer in RI on Tuesday morning. Got a call this afternoon saying that the cylinder 6 misfire was due to a bad injector, probably since day 1. They were working on the truck Tuesday PM but couldn't figure out the misfire until today. Parts will be in tomorrow, hopefully driving my truck before 4 PM. In the meantime, they put me in a 2011 Acadia Denali loaner with 75k on the clock and this thing is beat to hell... Has anyone heard about injectors being an issue? How long until the other 7 go out or is this just an isolated junk injector? I travel over 30k every year, mostly in the winter, refereeing hockey throughout the northeast. I bought this truck to be sure I get there regardless of miles or weather conditions. Honestly I am a little nervous at this point and I do not have my truck back yet to reassure me. Just looking for any insights. Been a GM guy since my 96 sunfire, 2004 1500, 2013 1500 that I hated with a passion, and my current 2014 which is the most enjoyable vehicle I've owned, when it runs... Also have a 91 vette to boot...I love this truck but I'm traveling 3+ hours this weekend and next and I am wondering if I should take the vette. Thanks, Mike
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