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Everything posted by firefighteremt3100

  1. Is there a harness that is just plug and play where I don't have to do unecessary crimps? I live in Wisconsin so I'd rather not have another area for salt to get into and corrode.
  2. Hi Folks, Been awhile since I've been on here. I've since upgraded to a 2011 Silverado 1500 Crew Cab from a 2004 Silverado 1500 Extended Cab. Anyway, to make a long post short, does anyone know if there is a replacement harness for the rear license lamps and if so what the GM part # might be? I bought this truck used and when I went to put LED lights in the license housings, I noticed both sockets were black and somewhat burnt. While the lights still work, I'd rather take care of it now before it becomes a problem. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks! -Brian
  3. Thanks for the info. I've been looking around for quite awhile researching but seem to get nowhere. You guys have been a great asset in the past, figured I would try here.
  4. Hello Folks, Bought a 2011 Crew Cab about a year ago, and needing to replace the tires. I've had some Kelly Tires and Bridgestone Revo II's in the past with varying results. Wondering what you guys are running? I'd like something that's good in rain and snow, but that's also quiet and long lasting. I don't do any off roading. Hoping you guys can help me narrow down what to pick. Thanks in advance.
  5. What brand did you use? There seems to be so many knock off stuff, I don't want to end up buying some cheap POS. Thanks.
  6. All these views and no posts? I'm just looking for other options, mainly ones that will cover the existing holes that will remain once I pull off the 'whale tail'. Wondering if this is long enough to do the job? http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/results.cfm?singlepart=1&AddPartNumber=12495717&partnumber=12495717
  7. I bought a used Century Cap to put on the back of my 2004 Silverado 1500. The cap fits great, but due to the "Whale Tail" style tailgate "cap", the door does not close. Has anyone found anything that is similar to this whale tail that bolts in its place? I like the ruggedness of this and really don't want to lose it if I don't have to. I've been told the only real replacements are the ones with the 3M tape that 'stick on'. If that is my only option, then I guess I will have to go with it. But I will take any suggestions. Stealer wants $138 for the GM one.
  8. Another Wisconsin Guy....just west of Milwaukee. Guess I missed the road trip to Appleton in 2003?!? Lol.
  9. Im still confused about some stuff, but I will continue to re-read posts till I get it. I do have a question though. About this "Slave" thing. I assume it works something like IDE channels on PC's, only there is only 1 in our vehicles. If I wanted mp3 compatibility, and found a changer that handled mp3s, could I hook this up in place of the regular 6disc changer? Im sorry if this seems like a dumb question. I know I need to get rid of this "Dumb" Bose crap amp before I go nuts. I hauled an Escalade today, along with a Honda Odyssey. Man, GM really pisses me off after I saw the electronics in this Odyssey. It was touch screen navigation, and when you put the vehicle in reverse, the screen switches over to a live camera view of the rear. How cool is that? I mean yea, it may not be a big deal to most people. It just pisses me off how advanced these foreign cars are becoming, while we still end up paying all this money for the "LT" package, only to get a hunk of metal for an AMP. Hehe. I love your setup, I just want to be able to pop in cds full of MP3's. Thanks. -Brian
  10. Here is a REAL good source of all this info compressed down to just data: (Note: part numbers are listed here to) TNR INSTALL INFO Yes, the nav dvd needs to be in to be navigating. If you want to play cds at same time, you need add a cd changer. dave <{POST_SNAPBACK}> How do I know if mine is the lux on none lux model <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Look in the glove box, if you find a code that says Y91 or Y92, you have the LUX package. If you see U6C (I think) you have the non-LUX package. If I were to bet, you don't have the LUX package. It's only seen on the Escalades and Denalis. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Its UC6. Pisses me off. I have the LT package and they skimp out on the AMP.
  11. the one more modification that linda and i had to do was to cut/grind a little plastic piece behind the bezel (you'll see when you take the bezel off) area inorder to get the cd changer to slide in all the way. this is the only cutting you'll probably have to do. we talked about this on one of the earlier posts. with this little piece out of the way, the cd changer slides in perfectly and just use two tapping screw to hold it in place. for me grinding away the plastic piece provided me with an opening to run the cable through from the head unit to the cd changer. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> I think this is the piece you are talking about cutting to allow more room for the changer. Hope this picture helps. Picture
  12. Anyone feel like doing a step-by-step, detailed with pictures install guide for those of us who are too dumb to know what half the stuff you are talking about is? Id really like to change my stock system as it really doesn't sound that great. I just don't know which way to go. This mod looks really cool. I just have to find me a Installing a NAV unit and nice sound system for Dummies book
  13. Thanks for all the info. I've had strobes for years. I know they are grounded through the powerpack and whatnot. Just seemed kind of weird. Guess I'll see if it happens again. I do appreciate all the insight though, as always
  14. Even if its not even tied into anything else? And also...why just now? The strobes have been in there for over 6 months?
  15. Ok, so first off...after dropping off my truck...the dealer calls and asks me if I had this problem while I had my "emergency lights" on? (Im on a fire department). I said no why. Their first instinct was to put blame on what they refer to as an "after market add-on". I said it was not the aftermarket addon. First off, they have been in for more than a year with no problems. Second, my whole light system is completely isolated from everything else. They then moved to my strobe cables saying it might be interfering with some computer box on the drivers side. I said, no try again. Strobe cables are shielded to prevent such a thing. Later on, they said it was 2 censors....if I can remember what they called them, I think a crank sensor, and a throttle position sensor? Make any sense? Something about they both monitor each other, and if they dont get the same reading, it pops that error message up and sets a code. Apparently they got a code but couldn't reproduce the problem. Looking at my receipt after I picked up my truck...it says: Systematic Testing Code P2135 Replace Failed TBI Unit & Reprogram PCM Again, I'm not a mechanic so I don't really have any idea what this is. Any help would be greatly appreciated Have a great weekend!
  16. Yea, engine was cold...hopped in the highway...probly a good 10 miles or so, went to get off the highway and thats when it happened. Dumb question here....but if the thermostat stuck shut, wouldnt the temp guage read higher than normal? Even if only for a few minutes? I drive an international flatbed for work, so I am always watching my guages...I didnt notice any higher than normal readings on the guage.
  17. Thats kinda what I was thinking, but Im no mechanic so I figured I'd limp it home and ask you fine folks who have a clue what you might think it is cuz I'm stumped.
  18. Yea I looked in the manual while I sat there being really PO'ed, finally found the right section in the manual. It said it was related to a coolant problem. Some kind or protection for the V8 engines that shuts half the cylinders down to prevent damage or something. My temp guage was the normal 190. Thats what didnt make sense to me. If it was overheating, why did the guage show normal. I guess the guage could be bad. But after I de-pressurized the coolant tank (either that or the sitting there for 10 minutes), the engine light went out, and the message went away and I was able to drive it home. But like I said, the hoses seemed hotter than normal. Maybe its just me, I dont make it a habit of feeling my hoses after I drive the truck. Just seemed like the whole engine compartment was hotter than normal when I opened the hood.
  19. Ok....so heres the deal Hopped in my 2004 Silverado tonight and went down the highway, probably 10 miles or so doing around 70-75ish. Went to get off the highway and the DIC says "Reduced Engine Power", the check engine light comes on and stays on, and my truck basically tells me I am going to go 15 MPH and I am going to like it. I couldn't go any faster. Almost got rear-ended trying to get into a parking lot. I got to the lot and shut off the truck. Got out and checked for leaking fluids. Checked the oil, it was fine. No leaks. The coolant tank was pretty full...the usual level. Everything appeared to be fine. I restarted the truck several times and couldn't get anything to change. I Checked the coolant reservoir and unscrewed the top and relieved the pressure. I tried to start the truck again, the check engine light went off and the message went away. I nursed it back home. Once I got home, I checked agian. No leaks. But the hoses are scalding hot. I realize they will be pretty hot from driving, but this seemed hotter than normal. Any ideas what the problem is? Could the Dex Cool anti-freeze be gelling up? (I thought I heard some people having a problem with the pinkish/red stuff). Any ideas would greatly be appreciated. Have an appointment with the dealer tomorrow. Would just like to go in prepared...somewhat. Thanks. -Brian
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