WaxOnWaxOff

Spoke too soon. It died today after some light driving during a test....

You ever figure out this issue? Sounds similar to mine but I have no codes.

So, I waited a few hours while the battery charged back up and gathered data comparing it to the dashboard gauge, but also used the Torque Pro app to get actual PSIs (I think): 55psi at cold start (65 degrees out) on dash, 51.9 on Torque Pro (TP) ~1200RPM Coolant at 120*, ~1100RPM, 25 on dash, 31.9 on TP Fully warmed up, 220* Coolant, 745RPM, under 10 (maybe 8ish on dash, 13.7 on TP (before my 5 mile drive described below) I gathered the following PSI's by revving to RPMs as well: 1000RPM - 15 on dash, 18.2 on TP 2000RPM - 30 on dash, 37.4 on TP 3000RPM - 50 on dash, 61.2 on TP So, not sure this helps or further muddies the water. I drove the truck about 5 miles during this time as well. No odd sounds or anything the whole time, nothing locked up. I shut it down after letting it idle for a few minutes. Again the dash showed maybe 7-8PSI, and Torque Pro showed 13.7PSI at 746RPM. This much, at least, is consistent.

Appreciate the reply again. There was nothing that hit the piston and I did have the heads machined. Forgot to mention that. I did not put a new pickup tube on only the new pump itself. Was hoping to avoid debris recirculation if there was any and figured just would change the pump while it was all off. I'm concerned it's a plugged galley. I just fired it up today to gather as much more data as possible. 60psi at cold start (55degrees out). Engine up to temp, oil pressure slowly dropped to 20psi, held there for several minutes before falling to about 10psi and then the warnings came on. I shut it down. Unfortunately the battery was dead so couldn't try a recrank but it didn't seem to seize this time, or I haven't waited long enough. I'm not a mechanic, unless YouTube mechanic counts, so I've just watched videos and I'm pretty meticulous and detailed (electrical engineer background). I'm thinking of pulling the pan again and inspecting the pickup tube, possibly orring on the tube. I reused those after cleaning it out before.

Thanks for the suggestion. Does it make sense this ONLY would've happened after the topside work I did? It ran fine for probably 50ish miles with none of these symptoms, the ONLY thing I did was the topside work and then these symptoms started.

Good Morning all, bear with me for a moment as I describe the journey here.... 2017 Yukon Denali, 6.2L. So I had a collapsed lifter, which bent a pushrod. I went with a Texas speed replacement set. I tore everything down, there was no scarring or damage to anything that I could see when doing so, just the bent rod. Anyway, everything was torn down to the block. Lifters replaced, new cam, new oil pump to be safe (parts list attached). There was no visible metal but I wanted to be sure. I also had it tuned because of the DOD delete, etc. Everything fires up great, it starts and drives. After 5-10 minutes of running and driving, it's almost like the oil pressure starts to drop (it does seem to be low, but it is a 6.2) then suddenly the engine shuts off and cannot be started until you wait about 24 hours or so for it to cool down I guess. It's like it is too hard to turn over. But if you wait, it fires right up like nothing happened. The only other symptom I can describe is that it almost feels as if the torque converter has too high of a stall, and is killing it that way. So....I replaced that too just in case. Prior to the engine issues there was some slight skipping/slipping on the transmission as this year has. So I figured why not. I'm a bit at a loss, I figure something I did when replacing the cam and lifters caused it because it ran fine before doing everything. I'm just hoping someone smarter than me can help me diagnose what I messed up! The truck has 54k miles on it but is like a paperweight for now. Let me know if more information is needed or there are more questions!

We're having terrible infotainment troubles. Still no update for us here, the dealer is WEEKs out. We cant even use the hotspot, and havent been able to for months. Onstar says to update our infotainment as its from last year (seems the dealer DOWNGRADED our infotainment when we had the original problem of no internet at purchase). I think it says Build is 105, and v155 is out now? Wonder if there is any other way to get this update.

I've been doing this for 3-4 years now. The battery tender on my 5th wheel charges the truck's battery. I just make sure to turn off the radio (press and hold the power button) and disable the auto headlamps. Plug in the trailer wire and we're good to go. This worked on my gasser and my new diesel.

DAMN! That looks nice lol....ugh, more money to spend now I guess.

I've had 3 sets replaced. All 3 times they were filled with water. I guess they've been replacing both (or at least charging GM to replace both haha)

Picked up the truck almost 2 weeks ago. I love it! So far I've done a few things. 1) Now, I'm sure it seems weird, but I do NOT like Chrome, so as part of the purchase all the fancy Chrome pieces were swapped with the lower trim model stuff. (Painted door handles, black mirrors, black tailgate handle, assist steps, etc.) 2) Katzkin Leather Upgrade So....what's next?

Anyone ever solve this issue? I have a '15 2500HD and can agree with the loud chime. It does it with the seatbelt on or off (5-6 chimes), but it literally hurts my ears.