More info: On the emissions sticker under the hood, this vehicle has the following certifications: EPA: LDT, Tier 2 Cal: LDT, ULEV Another question: Are there different ECM flashes for different states on this vehicle? Thanks
A friend is looking at a used 2016 Equinox. It appears that the car originally came from a California dealer, and it has RPO code NU5, which is California emissions. What I want to know is exactly what that means, what hardware was different than on a regular Equinox sold in the other 49 states. I also want to know if the performance is affected in any way. Thanks.
After doing a little reading about all the DEF headaches, I think the best thing for me to do is to just keep driving the old gas hog. In the past couple of years, we've replaced the A/C compressor and fixed all the A/C leaks, replaced the intake gaskets, and replaced the fuel pump. It also has new plugs, wires, cap, rotor, etc. This is the first real money we've spent on this truck in 19 years of ownership. It has about 170,000 miles now. We use it only to pull our fifth wheel, about 12,000 pounds. Because of work, we don't get to take all that many trips, and those trips are never more than 125 miles from home. I haven't put more than a thousand miles on the truck in each of the past couple of years, so the gas mileage thing isn't a big deal. It spends most of it's time sitting in the shop on the battery tender. The truck is kind of ugly (faded paint, etc.), but it is mechanically sound. The only real problem I'm aware of right now is a power steering leak. I add a pint of PS oil before each trip. My wife works for a car dealer with several new car dealerships. I spotted that 2011 on one of their websites, and it looked like a pretty nice truck. That's why I made the inquiry here. Thanks for the input. I believe I'll keep my money in pocket.
I've never owned a diesel pickup before... As far as the duramax goes, how was the 2011 model year? Pros, cons, etc. I assume they used DEF that year? If there is anything else I need to know about a 2011 dually, please let me know. (My hauler for the past 19 years has been a '96 Chevy dually with a vortec 454.) Thanks.
When you installed the new crank, did it spin over easily in the block with none of the rods hooked up? Is the original crank and the new crank broken in the same place? What kind of engine is it? 350 cranks and 305 cranks often get interchanged incorrectly. They have the same stroke, but the counterweights are different. Overtightening the belts can cause the crank to break near the front. I can't see the dampener causing the crank to break that fast, unless it is an externally balanced engine and the dampener is the wrong one. If this is the case, you would have definitely felt it.
When I bought my 1996 one ton crew cab dually back in 2000, the left front shock was completely gone from the truck. I put two new shocks on the front. Since that time, I've paid very little attention to the front end on this truck. It's been a very reliable truck and I've mostly just driven it. Back in March, I felt the brakes starting to grind, so I knew it was time for to turn the rotors and get new pads. While performing that service, I noticed that the top nut, washer, and bushing was missing from the left front shock. I put on a new bushing, washer, and double nuts. This morning, while checking the air in the tires, I noticed that the bushing was gone. I assume that it was somehow hammered away by the movement of the suspension. My washer and double nuts were still there. I just finished putting a solid steel bushing on there. Does anybody know what causes the front shock problems on these trucks? When I first bought the truck and discovered the missing shock, somebody told me that it's fairly common for the front shocks to just fall off these trucks. I have no idea what is going on. Is it possible that some brands of shocks bottom out on these trucks? This truck hasn't been lifted or lowered or anything like that. If spending money on a different brand of shocks would solve my issue, I'd be happy to do it. The shocks on there currently are cheapo Monroe Gas Magnums. Like I mentioned previously, they are 16 years old. When I had them off back in the spring, they still had a gas charge on them. I compressed them manually, and the gas pushed the shaft back out. Any info appreciated. Thanks.
Here is the best part of the entire story... My wife is the comptroller over two new car dealerships. The service manager at one of those dealerships told me to just bring the truck to him, and he'd take care of getting all the work done at no expense to us. One of their hourly kids will be doing most of the labor, under the supervision of one of the seasoned mechanics. My wife is really well liked by everybody in that service department. It pays to not be an a$$hole at work. Here is the list of parts that will be replaced: compressor evaporator core accumulator orifice tube heater core blower motor blower motor resistor
I made a couple of phone calls and checked... The ACDelco evaporator core is manufactured in Taiwan. The Four Seasons evaporator core is manufactured in China. So I guess I need to ask myself if I believe the Taiwanese evaporator core is worth more than twice the price of the Chinese evaporator core. I am inclined to say no.
That's what I'm thinking. I was getting really confused by all of the different ways these compressors were described on the various websites. I finally decided the price is the giveaway. Like I said before, the 4440 on the Sanden website is $250. All of the "Sanden style" compressors I see are in the $125-$150 range. I believe I'll spend the extra hundred bucks and do it right the first time. On the evaporator, can I do better than AC/Delco? I see a bunch of aftermarket evaporator cores in the $50-$80 range. An AC/Delco evaporator core on Rock Auto is about $150. On a job that difficult, I certainly want to put the best piece I can in there. Is AC/Delco the way to go? Thanks for all the replies thus far.
My truck: '96 C3500 7.4 The A/C in my truck works fine when it has refrigerant in it. The problem is that it leaks. I only use this truck a few times per year to pull my camper, so I've been getting by by just adding some refrigerant to it just before every trip. However, I'd like to get it fixed. We put the dye in the system, and found that both the compressor and the evaporator core are leaking. I already know the evaporator core is a pain in the ass to replace, so I won't bother discussing that. My questions are about replacing the compressor. The original compressor is the HT6, which from doing a lot of reading, I've discovered it a big pile of crap. The aftermarket has better solutions. This is where I get confused. Sanden's 4440 compressor seems like the best solution. It's about $250 on Sanden's website. I've also looked at compressors from Four Seasons, Murray (O'Reilly's), and Everco (Autozone). Judging from the part numbers and the pictures, these all appear to be the same thing, but I haven't been able to verify that. The part number is 88950. Most of these sell in the $180-$200 range. I've also looked quite a bit at the offerings from a company called Tech Choice parts. They refer to Sanden on their website, but I don't their compressors are really made by Sanden. They've got several on the compressor page for this truck, a couple of them around $150 or even less: http://www.techchoiceparts.com/categories/air-conditioning-and-heating/ac-compressor?page=1 I hope the above link works. So my question is, what is the best compressor to buy for my truck. Right now, I am inclined to spend the money on the Sanden unit. Thanks.
I currently own a 1996 C3500 crew cab dually with a vortec 7.4. This truck is used only for pulling my 38.5 foot fifth wheel camper. I've owned this truck since the spring of 2000. It currently has 156,000 miles, and is mechanically sound. I know that it needs to have several A/C components replaced because of leaks. For the past few years, I've just been putting a couple of cans of freon in it before each trip. The paint on the roof, hood, and the tops of the fenders is bad, and I will need to eventually address this if I continue to keep the truck. I've always got my eyes open for a better, newer truck that I could get into without spending a lot of money. What I've watched for the most are clean Dodge Cummins 5.9 trucks or GM Duramax trucks. Most of the diesels I see around here have been rode pretty hard Something caught my eye today. A guy that I know (but don't necessarily trust) put up an ad for a 2002 GMC 2500 4x4 crew cab with a vortec 8100. This truck has 207,000 miles on it. In the pictures he posted, it looks pretty clean. He stated that it's been a daily driver, and the miles are mostly highway miles. (They always say that, right?) His asking price is $8,000. This truck is on a used car lot that he runs with his dad. Here are my questions: Would I notice much of a chassis difference between the '96 dually and the '02 2500? My camper is about 13,000 pounds, and is about 2500 pounds on the pin. The 7.4 is fairly sluggish accelerating on the highway. I always try to baby it and not turn a lot of RPM's. Would I notice much of a difference with the 8100? I've resigned myself to the fact that the gas mileage with my 454 pulling the trailer will never be better than 6. Would the 8100 be any better or worse? Is there anything else I need to know about the differences between the '96 and the '02? Thanks.
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