I already have AMP Power Steps and a JL Audio subwoofer connected to the battery of my 2015 All Terrain 6.2. I'm planning to get both a Morimoto HID kit and a light bar, both of which will need power runs to the battery as well. Can I use the same terminal for multiple accessories? If not, is anybody aware of whether with the standard battery configuration in the truck, there is a suitable way to power all 4 accessories? Failing that, does anybody have recommendations on a power distribution block and the best place to mount it? In short, the question is: what is the best way to connect four after market accessories to the battery? Thanks.
Rob - Which Gibson exhaust tip did you get? I found 2 black ceramic tips on their site but both are 12" long. And my tailpipe (I have a 6.2L) only has about 7" from the tip to the first bend, so 12" won't fit. I see you have a 5.3L, so maybe the tailpipe configuration is different on yours? Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks.
For the record, I am open to changes being made to the TCM not just the ECM. My understanding is that there are other things that can be changed (shift timings, pressures, etc.) separate and apart from Torque Management. Thanks.
Thanks, folks, for the replies so far. Even if torque mgmt can be set at 50%, I think I'd probably still be reluctant to do that unless there were pretty solid consensus that that would not create meaningful add'l risk of a "hard part" failing. And I don't think there's solid consensus even on that, though I'd be happy to be incorrect. So to clarify the question: is an aftermarket tune of a 6.2L/8 spd worth it if Torque Management is left fully "on"...irrespective of whether it can be reduced incrementally or has to be shut off entirely? Thank you.
Having read every tuning thread for info on 6.2L/8-speed tunes, there does not appear to be clear consensus that turning torque management off (or reducing it) is not damaging to the tranny and/or other "hard parts" - especially over the long haul. If I have this correct, then I would probably just leave Torque Management "on" (i.e. at the factory settings) in a tune. If that's the route I choose, is it even worth it to get the tune? I have a '15 SLT AT CCSB with the 6.2L/8 speed. My use case is split: (1) I work from home so all week my driving is limited to driving my kids to school, practice, etc. and an occasional longer run but still on local roads; but (2) on weekends, we take a lot of extended highway trips and, because I like to drive, I'll "get on it" from time-to-time. I am not a stranger to WOT. The main reason I'm looking for a tune is that the drivability around town. It seems like when I'm between 30-40 MPH, the tranny is a slushbox/hunting for gears and the throttle response is pretty poor. While I drive fairly aggressively, though, it's not like I'm looking to spin the tires on every shift while driving around town. I would definitely appreciate firmer shifts on the highway as well because overall I find the shifts really soft, but I also don't want "thuds" every time the transmission shifts. Will a tune be worth it for me? Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks.
Planning to install this weekend the JL Audio PowerWedge+ sub (http://tinyurl.com/jsntpdc) that others here have installed. I have a couple of final planning questions that I'd appreciate help with. crewl1 and Racinghart03 have already been huge helps via PM. Thanks guys. 1) How have folks secured their subs (whether this JL or a different one) to keep them from bouncing around? -I have a one-piece Aries 3D floormat in the back that goes all the way under the seats. I'm going to cut out an area for the subwoofer so it can sit directly on the carpet and I'm going to use the salvaged material from the floormat to cover the door side of the sub (covering a fabricated piece of wood fit to the side profile of the gap between seat and floor). But for keeping the sub in place, what have folks done? Is there something I can use to stick the felt/carpet that is on the sub to the carpeted floor in the truck? 2) I'm going to tap the signal coming from the amp to the front speaker(s). Those wires are pretty small gauge (I think about 18 AWG). I'm planning to use the same gauge to run from my Posi-taps to the sub, based on an assumption that putting 12 gauge wire from my tap isn't going to gain me anything because the signal coming from the amp is already going into a smaller gauge wire that I'm tapping into. Anything faulty in that assumption? Thanks again! This place is great.
I'm looking to add a tailgate light bar that goes between the tailgate and the bumper. The problem that I'm having is that none of the manufacturers I can find list the color temp of the white light in those that have a reverse light option (which I want). Anybody have one that is roughly 5K (no blue tinge)? All my other lights have been replaced with VLED 5K ones. Thanks.
Thanks, fondupot. I found the Nokian US Product Guide and the 275s are recommended for 7.5 - 9.5" width rims. So the 8.5" wide OEM 18s are right in the sweet spot. It's simply a question of looks vs. snow performance at this point. Where I'm leaning now is that the whole reason I'm willing to drop $1,700 on winter rims/tires is for snow performance. If it were about looks, I'd keep the stock 20" AT wheels, which I love (with the crappy Goodyear SRAs, which I don't - they were sliding all over the place going up a hill under throttle today in light rain). So while I agree with you that the 275s will look better, I may nevertheless go with the 255s. I'll wait until late tomorrow to call the ball, so if anybody else wants to weigh in, I'm all ears.
I have a 2015 Sierra AT CCSB with stock 20x9 wheels and 275/55R20 tires. I'm going to get a set of 18" OEM wheels and snow tires for winter. The OEM 18s are all 8.5" wide. The stock tires on the stock OEM 18x8.5" wheels are 265/65R18. I have my heart set on Nokian Hakkapeliitta R2 SUV snow tires which, as Murphy's Law would have it, do not come in 265/65R18. [Available sizes here: https://www.nokiantyres.com/winter-tyres/nokian-hakkapeliitta-r2-suv/] According to tiresize.com, the two sizes that Nokian DOES have which are closest in diameter to my stock 275/55R20s are: (1) 275/65R18 (+0.6% diameter according to TireSize); or (2) 255/65R18 (-2.5% diameter according to TireSize). I'm leaning to the 255/65R18s because narrower tires are better in snow, but I'm concerned about the 2.5% drop in diameter/circumference. On the other hand, I'm concerned that 275s are too wide (10.8") for 8.5" wheels. But from a looks perspective I like the fact that I wouldn't lose any diameter. Which would you get (and why, if you'd be so kind)? Any clear dealbreakers either way? Thanks.
I have a '15 Sierra CCSB AT in Iridium. My current wheels are the standard All Terrain 20s (275/55R20). I'm looking to pick up a set of winter wheels and tires. My plan is to go with 18" wheels combined with tires that will yield as close a diameter as possible to the stock setup (so either 265/65R18 or 255/70R18). I typically prefer OEM but I can't find anywhere to buy 18" OEM wheels - the GMC accessories site only shows 20" and 22" wheels. Has anybody found a way? (I will admit that I haven't called my dealer - I will certainly do that today). My backup plan is to go with the Enkei wheels recommended by Tire Rack listed below. I'm hoping that the gunmetal finish is a decent match to the Iridium Metallic on my truck. Thanks. Link: http://www.tirerack.com/wheels/WheelCloseUpServlet?target=runWheelSearch&initialPartNumber=4708858420GM&wheelMake=Enkei%20Performance&wheelModel=ST6&wheelFinish=Gunmetal%20Painted&winter=18&tireSet=-1&tire=665R8DMV2&showRear=no&autoMake=GMC&autoModel=Sierra+1500+4wd&autoYear=2015&autoModClar=Crew+Cab
Mike - Any chance that you have any more detail on the specific strips you ordered from eBay? Specifically: - Color: It seems like the same manufacturer keeps popping up - but they don't provide K ratings for the color of their lights. They only provide their subjective terms "daylight white", "cool white", etc. - Water Resistance Level (IP rating) - This manufacturer offers indoor, IP65, and IP66 water resistance levels. I am focusing on IP66 water resistance, because I can see an awful lot of water getting splashed up on these strips at pretty high pressure from the front tires. In the absence of any more detail, this is the one I think I'm going to go with: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Super-Bright-600LED-5050-SMD-LED-Strip-Waterproof-IP66-Tube-12V-144W-Cool-White-/191307456299?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2c8ad01f2b Thanks for the info already provided on this.
I've seen mention in other AMP threads here of using the existing grommet in the floor rather than drilling a new hole (as the AMP instructions suggest), but I haven't found confirmation that anybody did it and liked the result. Two questions: 1) Has anybody successfully used that existing grommet in the floor to avoid drilling? At the same time that I install the AMP steps, I will be installing a Pop N Lock for the rear tailgate, for which I will definitely be using that existing grommet. My one concern is that if put too many wires through that one grommet, there will be a perceptible bump in the carpet (if not visible, then one that I can feel with my feet when I get in). 2) Has anybody used another point of entry into the cab, say in the firewall, for the AMP cable that needs to be connected to the OBD port? Any advice would be appreciated. This will be the first time I attempt anything like this. I pride myself on being very handy for household construction, but my car modding history has been limited to installing after market head units only. Thanks.
Thanks. My understanding is that what comes in the kit are ScotchLok, which nobody likes. I'm no car electronics expert but have used posi-taps in the few projects I've done without any issues. Though maybe it's time to finally suck it up and get a soldering iron and learn how to solder.
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