revmanii

New sensors installed today. They auto learned without issue. They were working within a 1/4 mile of leaving the installer. I think I'm done for now. Finally have everything done to get it to a good enough base level that hopefully I'll be happy with. Time will tell. I appreciate everyone's thoughts and opinions along the way.

Your truck lowered, looks good. I'm happy with the stance on this. I may need the extra ground clearance given my location/situation.

Nice. So, the front is a 2" spindle drop and the rear is a 4" drop?

I haven't spent a lot of time looking at the performance aspects. Just enough to know the Turbomax put out more torque than the 5.3, and does it at a very low RPM. Not what I'd expect from a turbo. I'd expect the gains to be at higher or at least mid-range RPMs. So yeah maybe that does indicate a smaller turbo that spins up quickly and there's some room for a higher end, bigger turbo. I already have a huge divet in my savings account from buying this truck. I would like to see a full dyno graph of the 2.7 vs. the 5.3. It seems to go pretty good. Not big on the somewhat anemic sound of the 4cyl from a stop, but it is what it is...

I like the rake. It's more of a sport build for me. I like the 285 wide directional Toyo's on the 2014 wheels. My TPMS sensors showed up yesterday, but delivered to my neighbor due to some fat fingering on my part. Fortunately he was around yesterday afternoon, and indeed had recieved my new sensors. Appointment made for Saturday to have them installed. Cosmetically, I've pulled the dealer sticker off of the lower left tailgate, and pulled the license plate frames. Seriously considering pulling the rear fender 4x4 decals. The other thing I've thought about doing is replacing the Dark Esentials black front grill bowtie with the base gold one to add a little color/contrast to the front. The gold front emblem, from one of many build and price jpgs I saved and mulled over.

From the back

Got a call today scheduling the bumbers for next week. Can't wait. That's the last major change, stuff they owed me, scheduled for next week. I'm not sure what I'm looking at. Looks like a draft from last week. Bumpers were installed today by the dealer. I'm very happy with the results. A couple before afters ... or not. looks like I can only get 2 into a single post.

It's not going to be a high mileage truck. I'm 62. My 2014 only had 55k on It. It probably won't see any towing. If so, it would be pretty light. Maybe a snowmobile or a small boat. For grins and hahas I went out with my TPMS recal device. Despite there being nothing in my 2026 owners manual about a manual TPMS relearn mode, according to the internet it did exist. Sure enough it came up even with a down level DIC. I gave programming the first tire a shot. As expected, it didn't work, but I had to try. Waiting for a tracking number on the new sensors

Yeah, that's my understanding. The newer trucks are 433Mhz vs the older 315Mhz TPMS. Putting these wheels on is costing me a small fortune, but so far, I'm still OK with it. Next week the chrome bumpers are scheduled to be replaced with flat black ones. That would complete what the dealer still owes me.

I put the rears on yesterday morning. I think the old wheels look good despite being 12 years old, and a little crusty. Re-torqued the fronts after 10-15 miles after I put on the rears. Re-torqued the rears today after about 30 miles or so yesterday. I've ordered what I believe are GM 13542523 TPMS sensors/valves from Partzilla. My googling/research on this part has again been, not clear. My manual for the new truck does not appear to show a manual TPMS relearn mode. I have an older device that appears to be the same as what still sells now for putting on new wheels, or even rotating. I used to use it twice a year. I was impressed that I was able to use it to calibrate the originals wheels/tires I put on the 2014 before trading it in a couple weeks ago.

Huh. That's a really interesting comment. I ran into a guy at home depot that pulled in with a Silverado with the same wheels I was looking to put on the new truck. It was a newer truck, so I asked what year it was. Late teens IIRC. But he said he put spacers on the front to try and correct that. I don't think I've ever read that, or noticed it on any of my Silverados. The spacers were not cheap. not putting them on the back would have saved some money. To me it was, if I'm going to move the front wheels out a little, I need to do the same for the back. The idea is to be a little more sporty with the 18" 285 Toyo directionals. I'm learning to deal with several downgrades compared to my '14 LT. No steering wheel stereo volume control (sucks), no uplevel DIC. (sucks even more). It runs well, but sounds like crap.

I appreciate your response as well as everyone elses. It's all stuff/info/opinions to consider. It's why I asked. The spacers are .375, the reach of the extendend lugs is only .33". Even if they were to bottom out with just the wheels, they're not going to bottom with the gen 2 BORA spacers. Spacer size wasn't a guess for me either. As I posted, the one front wheel I tested, spun freely with a less than 1/4" worth of washers. I went with the BORA .375" and ET lugs because I thought it was more important to have hubcentric spacers. Based on my research, that started at .375 for any vendors I found. Time will tell. I really want put the backs on, but it's also really hot outside. Air conditioning is a wonderful thing.

The BORA 3/8" spacers arrived yesterday along with the extended lug nuts. I got the front wheels changed out today, but was overheated and covered in sweat so bad, I figured getting both front wheels done was a win, and took a cool shower. Hopefully, I'll go out tomorrow morning before it gets into the 80+ temps and do the backs. After getting the first wheel snugged up, I backed out one of the lug nuts then hand turned to count threads. I believe I stopped counting around 12-13, so I think I'm good there.

Trust me I appreciate the comments and concerns. It's what I was looking for to help me evaluate the situation and what I want to do. I have decided to move forward with the BORA hubcentric slip on 3/8" (.375") with the extended lugs nuts. Fedex says they should be here Monday :). Meanwhile, the dealer got the remote start and Patriot spray in bed liner done over the last couple of days. Also, I installed an inline stop/start eliminator today. Starts back up in what whatever mode you shut it off in, so you don't have to hit the button every time you fire up.

The wheels I want to put on are takeoffs. I bought them at the same time I bought my 2014 Silverado. I have come across a vendor that appears to sell replicas of these, but they still won't fit my 2026 without spacers from what I've been able to tell. Their fitment years for the wheel stop at '22 if I remember correctly.

Yeah, I'm struggling with it. I'd love to put them on. I've done enough research to believe the BORA .375" spacers with extended lug nuts would be a solid, safe solution. I'm not that worried about the spacer thing, other than the cost to do it right. As for new wheels, I look at new wheels, and they all look the same to me. Way too busy. I'm old school I like them simple not to mention how much the new aftermarket wheels cost.

Yeah, there's a ton of them out there. You see them on a lot of extended cab Silverados, but I think they look great on a std cab/std bed, and you rarely see that. In the 12 years I've been running them, I think I've only seen 1, maybe 2 other std cabs running them.

Washers were just for fitment check obviously. I'd never drive it that way. I checked one front tire. Its turns fine with about .165" washer pack.

So, lot's of googling and reading, and a trial fit found, that indeed they hit the newer fatter caliper. I did some re-testing today, and found just 3/16" worth of washers was enough for the wheel to spin freely. I added 2 more on each, and again it spun freely. Tested lock to lock with the 4 washers, about 5/16" not quite the 3/8" Im considering, but pretty close. No issues. I've been looking at the BORA .375" spacers and using extended lugnuts to get back lost thread due to the spacer. All the ET lugs I've seen are all .33" reach inside the wheel lug holes. For those that don't like spacers or think they're unsafe, I think it depends on what type of spacers you're using and making sure you get good quality hubcentric ones, and if you're using bolt on ones, regular maintenance, checking the spacer lugs. Not wanting or needing that much spread. Looking for the minimum that will let me run these rims and tires. It does look to stick out a little, but I really want put these on. and use the stock all-terrains in the winter.

Feel free to expand on that. Considering .375" BORA spacers and extended lug nuts.

Appreciate the advice. I've watched multiple videos. Most showing the most complex for those that have a center console, to one that showed maybe 2 pieces of trim being removed, like 6 screws, pulling back the screen and switch assembly, and installing the inline module. And this was a new/newer Silverado. That didn't look too bad. All the others show alot of trim pieces that need to be removed. I've broken those kind of tabs/clips on my C8 Corvette trying to get to the battery, and that was a lot less clips than what I think is involved here after watching multiple videos and looking at my dash today. I have one on the way. Called a reputable stereo place about installing it and got a "minimum" price of $175. Ouch! Looking forward to seeing what the instructions have to say.

Spent the last hour or 2 googling and reading up on the spacer thing. I don't like the loss of thread contact on the slip on spacers, but it appears you can get "extended" lug nuts that reach into the hole of the wheel to get back the lost threads. Looks like the only true hubcentric slip on spacers are at least .375". I'd want as little as I could get away with and don't want to cause other clearance issues going any thicker. Bora seems to offer what appears to be a well made .375" spacer and extended lug nuts. I searched here and did find a couple threads recommending Bora. But not cheap. By the time I buy spacers and lugs, new TPMS sensors, then pay a tire shop to install the new sensors, I suspect I'm going to be in over $400. Thinking about running out and getting some washers to put behind the wheel to see if .375" is enough to clear calipers, turn lock to lock without rubbing, and to see if the wheels/tires look strange pushed out a little. This would just be to check fitment.

Not surprised, but hugely disappointing. My 2014 wheels don't clear the 2026 calipers.

I have to believe there are already a bunch of threads on this, but my searches didn't turn up much. While I like the ease of a plugin solution like the Carbyte, It appears it disables the AFM or DFM too, and is not configurable to only disable the auto stop/start. So, I'm looking at the Autostop Eliminator product. I like the idea of it better, but I'm concerned about the install and having to pull so many panels to get it installed. Mines a 2026 work truck, so from what I've read it's a less involved install, but having watched a couple install vid's, I'm still a little intimidated. Might need to buy some plastic trim tools to get it done without breaking or marring stuff. Any experience installing in a WT greatly appreciated.

PS: Here's a pic of the 2014 wheels I'd like to run when it's not winter. Toyo 285/60 x 18 Proxes ST III tires. Nice wide tire, sporty look. Stuck my finger around new wheel caliper setup. Very little clearance. I suspect these won't fit, but won't know for sure till I try. Edit: And my first mod. Stubby antenna from the old truck.