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M3eater

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  1. Don't know if it's common on these vehicles, but we do have a fairly common issue on BMWs with the pins in the OBD-II port pushing back into the housing and not making contact with the reader (or power programmer) harness plug. Wouldn't hurt to visually inspect the plug housing for any pins that may be dislodged and pushed back through the housing a bit.
  2. Cut to the chase; Are the steel control arms interchangeable with the aluminum arms in a stock usage? All my searching has detailed the differences in the lower control arm ball joints and most discussions center on what arms are needed for use with various lift kits. These discussions imply that you can swap arms to get the ones needed to work with the lift kits. However, I have a different desire. I need to replace the control arms as the bushings are soft (age) and allow wheel oscillations. The 22" wheels (and the 305 tires) I have installed are pretty heavy and really make the worn bushings apparent. If it's a direct swap, I'd like to install the aluminum lower arms in place of the current steel ones, to reduce the unsprung weight. Can anyone verify that the aluminum arms will directly install in place of the steel ones with no other changes? Thanks
  3. Found this with more searching. A couple plus inputs on the Yellows: http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/153844-ebc-brakes/
  4. Hawk HPS was my other potential. Wish I could view the cold and hot friction of these and the EBC Yellows. As for "locking up" .... Yes, the idea of ABS is to keep the wheels from locking. However, on dry pavement, you can't even get into the ABS with a large tire (which is the same braking force as you would have to lock up the tires, hence the ABS coming on). My 1st gen X5 brakes better with a 5,000 trailer with no brakes than this thing empty. Pretty much the same with all of the past Suburbans. The best one was the '01 3/4 ton with 8.1. The rotors are the biggest of any of the versions. Playing with various cheap and middle priced pads, I got it to be at least reasonable in braking. Had to tow the 10K boat a couple times without brakes, due to hydraulic issues while out on the road, and it at least felt moderately safe ..... as long as I was mindful of the issues involved with this extra weight and no brakes on it.
  5. I did a search, but didn't really see what I'm looking for. I've had 1500 & 2500 suburbans forever (we're on our, umm ... 8th). The brakes have sucked on all of them. On the last three generations, you can hardly (or not at all) lock the tires up. I currently have a "new to me" 2007 Escalade ESV. This is our first of this generation/platform. The brakes are especially bad. High pedal effort and low braking torque (yes, all is fine and proper with the systems). If you don't see any problem with the brakes on these vehicles .... well, that 's OK and I don't mean any disrespect, but, but you have just never driven anything with good brakes. I've thought about higher friction pads on the past ones, but this one really needs them. I am well versed in brakes and if our BMW performance brake supplier (I do BMW parts for a living) had pads for this, I'd use those. The rub in looking for something specifically with higher friction is that the suppliers typically do not supply the values. I've seen a couple notes on some EBC numbers, but ...... So far, the EBC Yellow seems to be a potential choice. I did see one mention of them having a 0.5 friction coefficient. I've used EBC Green, on the track, in a light car and they had great friction (have seen rating of 0.45 or 0.48), but didn't last a whole day and killed the rotors. Understandably, this is a completely duifferent situation, so, for the moment, I'm centering on braking torque ... friction. I don't care about rotors, and drilling/slotting, etc. does not improve brake friction. It just gives gasses an escape route if you happen to be getting the brakes hot enough for the pads to gas. Sooo .... what have YOU found, in pads, that are specifically and noteably higher in friction. Thanks for your input!
  6. Thanks guys ... The 2007-14 platform certainly is nice & I really like the dash design compared to the prior, the better fuel economy (heh ... economy ....), etc. I do miss the last 'Burby though.... 2001 8.1 2500
  7. Howdy, all. Just purchased a 2007 Escalade ESV. Not new to Suburbans. Except for the last 3-4 years we have always had Suburbans. 1977 Chevy ..... family & boat hauler 1988 Chevy (big lift, 40"ers, full size plow) .... family & boat hauler 1992 Chevy ..... family, boat, cars & building material 1996 GMC .... family, boat, cars & building material 2001 Chevy 3/4 ton, 6.0 .... family, boat, cars & building material 2001 Chevy 3/4 ton, 8.1 .... family, boat, cars & building material Current unit will be towing Chaparral 240 Signature, the occasional car, hauling building materials (remodeling 1895 Victorian), ocasional family hauler (all the kids are out of the house now, but have grandkids to add to the bunch) and Mom's rig. Purchased the Escalade at well below market value and have a few things to "clean-up" (SL shocks, general detailing, parking assist, tires). Does anyone know if the 'Service Parking Assist" fault will store any specific codes? What are your favorites for smartphone integration (units w/nav). Thanks, Gordon
  8. '07 Escalade ESV, 160k miles, all stock, 265/65/18 Towing 24' Express cruiser, about 7500lbs Photo - Purchased truck 3-days before 2500 mile road trip to pick-up (just purchased) boat. Found that the rear shock air boots were blown ... no leveling (plus a few hundred pounds in the back). Highway only : Below 70mph = 10.5 to 11 mpg Above 70mph = 9.5 to 10 mpg Tucking in behind 40+ foot trailers = gain of about .5 mpg Our last two 3/4 ton Sunburbans, both 2001s (had 28' Express Cruisers at that time, 10k+ lbs), one with 6.0 and other with 8.1, both got just below 12-mpg on highway UNLOADED. Got 10-mpg average daily use .... if not hot-rodding around. Never calculated towing MPG.
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