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About SunShine01

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  1. I’ve had cluster issues with my 2005 Tahoe myself but not related to rain ? I replaced my cluster a few years back. Worked great, but I’ve been experiencing a new issue of it blowing heat when I have the A/C on. Shut the truck off, restart, A/C then blows cold. Weird. If I were you, I’d check for interior dampness on your floorboard. You may have a windshield / pillar water leak ? Next check your dash sensor that it is unabstructed by dirt or blocked by objects so it informs properly daylight and temps etc. Other than that, these clusters can be diagnosed and repaired but the cost kinda makes it smarter in the long run to replace it, and they aren’t cheap either ! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  2. Don’t wanna sound like a know it all. But I’m a used car wholesaler/retailer. I’ve bought and sold thousands of vehicles and have plenty of tire amongst other experiences. I towed a 20 foot Stratos201 bass boat for years and burned thru tires like bubble gum. Back then I like Michellen. About 7 years ago, my older brother, also a car guy like myself gave me eye opening advice on tires. I had just bought a Tahoe Z71 with 26K on it that needed a “round of rubber”. He told me of a tire called Mastercraft Cousier MSR ( mud, snow, rain), don’t waste any ti e and go get them. Looking into them, they weren’t sold in Florida where I have this Tahoe because they are also a “studdable” tire, and it doesn’t snow here. I ordered a set out from Ohio to drop ship @ my door and mounted them @ a tire store. I cannot begin to tell you how convinced I am with these tires. I’m on my 3rd set, truck now has 140K on it. We have “coral” rock in our roads. They wear great, smoothe on the road, perfect in the rain, and kick ass in the mud and slop while in 4x4 low. I can’t begin to tell you my pleasure and I will not buy another SUV/pick up truck tire for the road and trail then these. I believe Mastercraft is a subsidiary of Cooper tires ? Trust me, you will thank me on these. I have not however used them with studs, so no review there. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. I bought mine off eBay based on my year make model etc. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. I don’t know what kinda oil pump GM is using these days. But I do remember those spring ones on the V6 231 engines many years ago. Lol [emoji23]. With that all said. You got good miles on your rigs. Your rings are well worn so you’re simply not going to get new car oil pressure. As long as she’s not rapping and getting circulation, you’re fine. I use 20/50 conventional Valvoline Racing Oil in all my stuff for the last 25 years if not more. Getting hard to find, but with my heat in south Florida I think it helps. When it gets cold I use the same stuff but 10/40. Synthetics made my 98 Tahoe rear mains leak. When I upgrade to the next truck I’ll go synthetic but not on this 2005 Z71 Tahoe I got. 140k and she’s good. Uses no oil. But I change it every 3-4K. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. I’m a long time car dealer. Not bragging but I bought and sold more vehicles then I’ve ever had hair. Right now I’m convinced, Mastercraft Coursier MSR are the best all around tire money can buy for road, mud, trailering and rain/snow. MSR ( Mud, Snow, Rain) are my favs. Mastercraft does make a more aggressive Off road tread, all terrain . They look great, but off-road wise, the MSR can hang and on the road, the all terrain are all terrain. Mastercraft are made and or owned by Cooper tires I think ? Do yourself a favor, check them out. I’ve run all the tires there are. These are the best I’ve ever had by far. http://mastercrafttires.com/ Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. I don’t have a Silverado but I have an 05 Tahoe Z71 4x4. Im a former used car wholesaler and went thru more tires then I care to think about. The best set of tires I’ve ever used, and will not use any other are called Mastercraft Coursier MSR. Ride great on the road. Excellent during rain, outrageous in mud, have studability if you are unlike me in snow area. I went thru all the Goodyear, Goodrich, Michellein, and countless others. I’m SOLD on these. Buy what you like, but trust me, hell would freeze [emoji3063] before someone produces a better tire for a Chevy 1/2 ton. Here’s a pic after doing a corn [emoji535] run @ hunt camp. She spun tires, but never stopped, in the worst of the worst Florida swamp mud area. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. Gotta be your seal around the windshield or doors. If it wasn’t raining I’d say heater core. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. It just might be general wear and loosening up of bearing and crank etc. If your engine isn’t rapping from lack of oil circulation I wouldn’t be so concerned. You just might need refreshing up your internals. High capacity pump should be circulating oil. If not, it’s obvious it’s “bleeding “ out from areas because of wear and loosening of tolerances. It happens with aged engines, especially those engines that idle a ton. Idling is hard on an engine because of heat and low oil circulation kinda permits more wear with friction on internals. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. I’m sure you could. But perish the thought of WHY ? Lol Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. Thanks Gavin. Mine doesn’t have a mind of its own and tries to shift where it wants. It just won’t shift where I direct it to shift all the time and I noticed the illumination issue to be possibly related ? Not sure, but when it illuminated, it did drop into 4 low. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. Hello fellow Chevy owners. I own the above listed Avalanche. I keep it @ my hunting lease to use filling feeders and hauling bags of corn. It gets very wet and muddy during that season. It’s a drought now. My issue is, I’ve been experiencing issues of it dropping into 4WD low. It drops into any other Auto 4WD and 4WD Hi. Here is what I’ve recently discovered. My dashboard shift indicator, when shifted to neutral to engage the 4WD does not illuminate. When it momentarily DID illuminate, it engaged into 4WD Lo ! Now it’s stuck in low. Can’t get the neutral position to illuminate. Drive, And reverse illuminate and park intermittently does. My question is, being this is an electronic shifting system, is my electronics telling my transfer case it is NOT in neutral therefore won’t drop into Lo or out of Lo ? If so, what is the module part that is responsible for this dashboard indicator ? I might as well replace it. Already replaced the 4WD switches, and was thinking of the module that mounts outside on the tranny thinking it got wet ? That part is a $250 part so if I can try something less, I win, and this observance I discovered opened my eyes. I did notice recently this year, this shift indicator not fully illuminating. I got all my shifts but not my 4WD buttons linking to it. Any advice from experience would be greatly welcomed. Thanks in advance Mike Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. Why do I keep thinking the water is not circulating well enough as the engine is working ? There should be enough air flow @ 60 to keep it cool enough. But if the coolant isn’t moving around freely from constriction or blockage it gets hot. Could be water pump, which was replaced, thermostat which was replaced, could the hoses be collapsing from air pockets possibly ? That would mean, there might be room for more coolant into the block while @ rest. Also, coolant diluted enough with water ? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. So you didn’t notice your vehicle being restricted by your brakes ? Wonder if you’re not getting all your gears ? Are your RPM’s a bit higher than normal while going 60 or so ? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  14. You seemed to have replaced anything that’s needs to be replaced. Since you do not have a fan clutch we can eliminate that. Have you inspected coolant circulation with the radiator? Is it possible water pump as you day just isn’t pumping ( impellar) issue ? How about your belt and harmonic balancer pulley tension ? Could it be possible your belt tension just is not driving that water pump to crank ? You would have noticed amp issues from the alternator as well ? The crazy part is, textron pink is where it seemed to originate from ? Weird. Tranny cooler circulating ? I’d start the engine with the radiator cap off and let it warm up until the thermostat opens to view coolant circulation first. Then look at the belt tensioner next, then finally water pump which should be connected to coolant circulation unless you are clogged. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  15. It might have a neutral safety switch which cuts off the engine upon big impact in order to avoid an explosion. Check to see fuel is pumping and you have spark. I have heard of Ford’s having this and am thinking it’s a across the board safety item for all vehicles. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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