MGnoob

Yeah, I’m definitely gonna give this one a try only this brand because I’m putting on their leveling kit and an inch and a half a block whenever I get my ass out of bed and go to the shop

do you need any of the original bushings in there at all? Mine doesn’t have any right now. I wish I fixed this before the corner of my tailgate got bent. It’s not a big deal as long as I’m the only one to use the tailgate but anybody else does it the tailgate fall off they got all jacked up on there. I’m definitely gonna buy these but as it is now, mine doesn’t always open all the way to flat unless you mess with it so I guess what I’m asking is will this resolve that or do I need the bushings still?

I’ve had bad luck finding the replacement hard plastic bushings that go on the bottom of either side of your tailgate. I’ve bought several sets online that don’t fit and even gotten some from the dealer. I don’t remember exactly what happened with the dealer ones I think one set just didn’t last long at all, Like less than a month. If I’m remembering correctly, the first ones they gave me didn’t fit… Any advice I’ve been all over the Internet I just so tired of ordering stuff and having to return it or the cost of it and throwing it out. 2015 GMC Sierra 1500

To close this out. I didn’t have the wires backward . I had to put them back the way they were. IT works absolutely flawlessly now, short of a voice command for the bumper camera, but when you turn it on it defaults to that. maybe a future firmware update will improve that feature. The time lapse recording is fantastic. I wish the reverse lines moved to guide you. But in my case with not being able to see through my cap, it’s a massive improvement of factory ones worthless. The only change I might make is moving the battery positive to the three switches I used to connect my batteries.. But I don’t think that’s worth it because it has a limit of 48 hour record.. so one battery would be sufficient. But I’d like it to run off my internal auxiliary battery because it’s already on its way out so I don’t care what depth of discharge it goes to because it’s dying anyway… I also don’t want to connect it to my external auxiliary battery. Because if somebody steals it then I won’t have them on camera after they yank it. and completely unrelated, here’s a bonus photo of the smokers kit I put in I threw the drilling template and the screws inside the cubbyhole before I just threw a little double-sided tape on the insert.. 10 years ago I think the dealership told me they wanted like four or $500 for this. It was 30 bucks on eBay.

I ended up using the information from this thread I used fuse 32 and 36 to tap off of. I think I had it backwards the first time because it was constant on. I just switched it and it seems to work fine. Other than that,The mirror says battery low one time and then another time it said battery level very low, but my truck doesn’t tell me any of that… I haven’t noticed it since I’ll have to check tomorrow I swear, I thought I heard it making a noise when walking past it a little while ago while it was off, but I can’t be sure I didn’t have my hearing aids in. I’m still using the accessory blade from where you would move the 50 amp cigarette lighter fuse if you wanted it to not constantly have constant power to charge your devices from for other stuff. later today, I’m gonna be installing the smokers kit and swapping out that socket for a cigarette lighter installing the ashtray. I’m likely gonna hardwire in a quad lock mount/charger for my phone at some point… I haven’t decided where I’m gonna get power from for that yet. Possibly a different location altogether. Currently drawing off the accessory for the cigarette lighter I have a three amp fuse that runs to both my battery isolator and my lightbar controller. I know I got a lot of extra wire, but I just always do that. because I had repaired where I had cut the wires on the original back up camera, I peeled back the shrink wrap and bloom. One of those wires is literally just glued together from the factory, but yeah, I tapped into the white wire and all is good for reverse.

Not bad.. just need to finish hard wiring, connect GPS, program it. I got Velcro on multiple places on the front. I can just move the camera around. on the back, I’m undecided if I’m gonna install another camera probably The rear camera has a red wire coming off of it that you hook up so when you put in reverse, it comes out automatically. I just have to tie that to the white wire from the existing factory camera. Apparently, I learned that the hard way.

I got a J fuse holder just like the regular fuse holder in the photo so now I have access to constant power and accessory while ignition keyed.. I just have to pull that 50 amp J fuse, put it in the holder and then make a harness. I don’t think I’m gonna install a fuse block. it’ll just be the camera system, and the trigger power for my light bar controller, and battery isolator.

I already had run a spare wire when I ran the massive cables for my front/rear mount winch.. I just thought it would be as easy as tapping in to the always on blade for the cigarette lighter fuse with a switch and connecting it to a wire in the rear. It didn’t work out that way, even though it didn’t work out. I just have a spare power wire for anything else. I wanna run back there.

I had removed my rearview mirror the other week. I wish I had done it 10 years ago, but in my state, you have to have it to get an inspection sticker even though it serves no function with the cap on. Just like the third brake light on the cab I got a rejection sticker one time usually they just change your lightbulb for you, but they wouldn’t do it because the cap was on there and they didn’t wanna struggle to change the bulbs, even though the brake light can’t be seen anywhere other than inside the driver compartment reflecting off the front of the cap. by having the back up camera in my rearview mirror, I also wind up with a functioning rearview mirror.. it should be much more convenient. I typically just park where I pull forward that way I never have any issue, but sometimes you do have to back up which I’d use the mirrors but you’re still backing up blind even with the factory camera you can’t see anything anyway, especially if I have any of my accessories in my hitch. That’s why I’m probably gonna mouth the second camera high up on the ladder rack.

It’s not that. I just thought it would be easy. The set up I bought which should be showing up tomorrow was $350 and I’m likely gonna buy an additional camera and a switch.. It’ll be great for backing up and added security of having a video of people stealing my stuff

You must’ve posted while I was typing. I really like that third brake light camera absolutely won’t work for my situation, though. Mine is completely obscured by my cap on my bed.. I’m sure I can look around but $400 bucks for the GM mirror is just not real I just ordered the “WOLFBOX G900 TriPro Bumper Version 3 Channel Rearview Mirror Cam” I may get additional cameras had a switch.. I’m probably gonna use some of this really good Velcro I use on everything so I can move the camera from my bumper to the end of my we which sticks out like 3 feet in front of my truck when it’s. in the rear, I’ll probably put wood in the license plate bracket on my liftgate and when I take the liftgate off, I may have one mounted on the bumper license plate or from the ladder rack.. I may or may not get some 10 foot extension cables so that way when I remove the items I listed above, I can just plug it in and avoid the switch altogether or at least for the front

I’m not sure, but I’ll have to look at that diagram some more. That might be very helpful. I am still determined/curious to figure it out just for the sake of figuring it out.

https://ebay.us/m/5OXvOD I’m dumb. I should just buy this. I’m operating off of what I tried to do 10 years ago. I didn’t realize I could just buy this. I’ve recorded front and rear view. Forget the factory system. i’m gonna look into these and the OBD-2 options… if anyone knows how to make the factory one work the way I want to please tell me. this is similar to the controller. I got for the LED light bars. This modern stuff is great.

I guess with the adapter from Amazon and the camera package from eBay I have both cameras on my rearview mirror. I can probably make it work so that the factory system still works.

I’d still like to get the rear camera to work similar to the way I’m doing it, but I guess I could always go cheap like this.. I don’t think I have any power up there, though I guess I’d have to figure out how to route it

Why would a wire from the camera that is triggered by reverse lights, not turned on the radio view? what purpose would it serve? I have read there’s a 20 pin connector behind the radio that you can work with, but that’s for upgrading to a new radio/viewer. they sell kits that you plug directly into the camera that jumps the remaining 5 wires together, but then it only has an RCA, which is video and ground that you plug directly into your new radio. I would just cut that off and connect it to the existing wiring but that my not work. My radio has no option/menu for the camera at all. I should attempt to try jumping the remaining four wires that I’m not working with together not the red or white though and see what happens if anything it would leave me with the camera/video monitor constantly on. then I would just interrupt the power on the red to turn it on and off.. I would lose it automatically coming on when I put it in reverse.

That’s not a bad idea. That is what I’m trying to achieve. I have a cap on the back of my truck that completely blocks my rearview..

I’ve researched this for 10 years and I finally got around to doing it. Nothing on the Internet seems to help. This is a 2015 GMC Sierra 1500 WT So here is the deal there are 6 wires that go to the camera. Red, white, yellow, brown and 2 blacks Red wire is constant 12+ volt. White wire is 12+ volt while in reverse. If you apply an external 12 V source to the white wire the backup lights do come on, but the camera doesn’t. If you cut the wire, you can eliminate the backup lights, but the camera still doesn’t work. The yellow, brown, and two blacks have no voltage or negligible voltage, whether in reverse or not. I’m assuming my problem has something to do with one of the two black wires but I don’t know what it is. What am I doing wrong/missing? The goal is to install a diode, so the camera works in reverse and when a button is pressed in the cab. I already have a wire in between the cab and the Camera. But that’s pretty useless until I figure out how to trigger the camera on… I’m going to take power from the driver side fuse panel, where I have my other accessories connected so it’s only live while the truck is keyed on. Help would be appreciated.

I solved the problem. I bought a modern non-diode isolator that has connections to energize the alternator. Other than that, you have to run the alternator to the input on the isolator, but you have to leave the other end of the stock alternator wire connected to the battery and its original Location. Inside the factory harness it must tell the BCU something. The new isolator is physically much smaller .. Which makes the install much more realistic and has minimal voltage drop which is a huge plus.

I finally hooked up my battery isolator. The alternator won’t generate any power. when I have the alternator connected to the alternator post on the battery isolator and the main battery on one of the battery posts on the battery isolator. No power is generated. I do have all the grounds for all the batteries run through the current sensor “amp clamp”. I need to know how to make the battery control module “BCM” recognize the primary battery while hooked to the isolator. if I run a cable from the main battery in its factory configuration to the alternator post on the battery isolator everything works. but the issue is that defeats the purpose of the battery isolator. It would use the main battery to charge my other batteries also drain my main battery when the vehicle isn’t running. I don’t want to install a relay for the reasons listed above. how do I get this to work? and yes, I have a nine-year-old post on this. I finally just got it done. I just have figure this issue out and connect my light bars. It’s just a matter of hooking up a few wires..