swathdiver

My first set of pads and most of the second did so in the hills of West Virginia.

Amazon Prime and Ebay mostly beat out RockAuto when we did ours. My factory set of front pads went 55K miles, then 81K for the replacements. Went with GM OE again.

Happens to the best of us!

The Tech-2 is a legacy product now, GM moved on to something else but the Chicom factory is still making and selling them. The subscription is only needed if you need to do programming. Read your owner's manual about the auto-up feature, I've not seen it in mine. Gotta run...

The original engine mounts are fluid filled for vibration dampening. They eventually leak and of course the driver's side is usually the first to fail. Consider replacing those and the transmission mount. I was leaning towards the driveshaft since your first post until you mentioned it getting worse with a load on and this is what I would do.

Didn't see this earlier, what became of the problem Shannon?

You very likely have a bad ground or battery cable(s). A bad cell in a battery is hard to detect and wreaks havoc with an electrical system. Clean your grounds and inspect your cables for corrosion. They can even degrade inside the rubber and you won't see it but can detect it with an ohm meter. Clear those codes and try to start it up again.

Who sells power fold and telescoping tow mirrors for 900s???

Did they spray the roof with water too? Around the windshield and even the antenna on the driver's side? You'd be surprised on where water can come from and wind up sometimes. So no leaks at the evaporator huh? That's the likely culprit. A Tech-2 can turn on the "Afterblow" feature which runs the fan after shut down to dry out the evaporator and keep mold and bacteria from forming.

Brian, is this a GMT800 Classic or a GMT900 NNBS? If the latter, look for 13598771 or 25920615 and don't use Chicom garbage, some like Dorman but I stick with ACDelco OE. Look for deals on Ebay and get the $8 EL-50448 relearn tool. Change them all at once, or else they'll nickel and dime you.

Those are signs of a bad Mass Airflow sensor or TPS sensor(s). Too bad you don't have a Tech-2 to work on this thing. A BT adapter and Torque Pro app will at least let you see some parameters so you can run some basic diagnostics.

So you checked and re-checked and cleaned all your grounds and cables to the battery? How about that junction on the firewall near the battery? If all that is good, it's likely in the key ignition. Is this an NBS Classic GMT800 or GMT900 NNBS?

2012 went to a hard drive based system. You insert the navigation DVD in the top slot and it copies to the hard drive. Last update was 2016 and without a coupon can by pricey. You can get stickers off ebay to cover up those AC buttons, mine have been on over 2 years and still can't tell they're on there.

AFIAK, only the Cadillacs have AutoUp. A good scan tool that reads BCM codes will tell you what's wrong and why. Without, you're guessing. If you pull the switch assembly up, try cleaning the contacts. If it was replaced or needs to be replaced, the module requires programming which you can pay a dealership to do or do it yourself with a Tech-2 and a subscription to ACDelco's TDS website to download the programming and install it into your truck. I just reread your post about the "click", is that sound near the motor or the switch? Maybe she just needs a new motor? If you're going to keep this thing for any length of time and turn your own wrenches mostly, get the Tech-2. About $325 on Ebay for one, make sure it has 33.004 software and Candi.

I don't know the logic the computer uses for those rear doors. Is there a lockout if the door is open to prevent operation of the windows? Is there a control wire going from the switch to the motor also? Do you have a scan tool that can read the BCM codes? These codes will tell you exactly what went wrong and why. Some switches require reprogramming but a new motor would not. Try that switch on the other side.