swathdiver

If I understand you correctly, you are saying that there is a connector for the ITBC plugged into a dummy connector inside the dash. If this is so, then it stands to reason that the wiring is present to also add the brains of the system and once connected, programmed to make it functional. You might want to go to GM's Upfitter's website and download the electrical guide to the K2s, the copy I have is for 2016s and while I've looked, I see nothing definitive but my eyes are shot and cannot keep looking.

I think the K2s have that wired up already and ready to go. The old 900s had it stowed away.

One of the benefits of synthetics is that they break up the sludge build up inside your motor. One of the downsides of synthetic is that they break up the sludge build up inside your motor.

Late 2009 Crew Cabs go the 6-speeds first. Only the Denalis had them from the get go.

Change all of the fluid to the new recommended fluid for your truck. Put your VIN in here and have a look: https://parts-catalog.acdelco.com/catalog/catalog_search.php If that does not fix the issue, replace the torque converter.

They'll fit and you will have to do some trimming for full turns. Stock offset will keep them tucked in unless you space them out. If you do, use hub centric spacers, some dude recently lost a wheel because his were not and the wheel studs finally gave way. Here is ours, Zone 6.5 lift on TIS 18x9 wheels with 35x12.50 Nittos

That was the shotgun approach and you missed. There are other sensors in the doors and a computer that handles everything. Who do you know with a Tech-2 that can pull the codes? There's no resetting the light without fixing it. Now, if you replaced a bad sensor, you have to cycle the key or turn the car on and it will go away after a minute or so. That happened to me when I replaced one of mine last month and just remembered. Happen to live in Florida?

Required Reading: https://www.sonnax.com/units/520-6l80-6l90-jmbx-multi-plate-performance-converter Required Watching: https://www.youtube.com/c/PrecisionTransmission You fellas with the K2s sure suffer needlessly with these transmissions. The older generation doesn't have half your problems which are almost all attributed to the increased temperatures because of the stupid thermostat they put on your trucks.

To program a module yourself, you need to have a laptop running Windows 10 with Icore 7 processor and 64-bits along with the GDS2 software and MDI2 adapter to get it to talk to your truck. Then you need a subscription to ACDelco's TDS system which is $40 for 2 years to program all modules for one VIN. $240 still seem like a lot? On the other hand, one cannot just plug in the factory controller into the dash and get it working. Well, wait a second, is this truck a K2 or a T1? The T1s are plug and play, the K2s have to go aftermarket if memory serves. If my wires are crossed, ev

My take is that he wants to know if the driveshaft turns in 2HI while moving the truck around in his yard. The answer to that is no, the shaft does not turn in 2HI. More importantly, if the CV axles are out, the hubs will be fine for moving the truck around the driveway but will come apart if you drive it down the road. A woman was killed this year when someone drove their RAM without the axle shafts in and a wheel came off on the highway and landed on her roof.

You have to pull the internal trouble codes to begin to solve this without throwing money away. Get a subscription to the shop manual at AllDataDIY so you can use the trouble shooting guide.

Strictly for car shows in parking lots!

No problem with a good suspension. Just remember that the offset of the original wheels is 31 mm and the new ones are 25 mm and are wider.

Well, our 2012 has 35 inch tires and rubs some with a 6.5 inch lift and some trimming was done and it rubs on full turns. You might consider adding a body lift or an even higher suspension lift to run 37s. Check out the Custom Offsets gallery where you can search and see if someone has done what you are looking to do. Hopefully a moderator comes along and moves this to the correct forum so it will garner better visibility.

If this is a FlexFuel engine, reset the alcohol content and LTFTs after running the tank down as much as possible and refueling with E10 or E0. The Tech-2 or scan tool will reset the alcohol content to 3% and then the computer will re compute from there. Don't reset until after the computer finishes calculating the new alcohol content after refueling. Mine has been doing this lately, rarely gets close to 0% LTFTs and goes mid teens at idle. Took a fuel sample from the rail and it is 80% and the computer says 67%. Time to reset for me too.