swathdiver

Always amazed at the performance of these things!

When the codes appeared, the computer stored a snapshot of what was going on at the time they were thrown. This information was lost when the codes were cleared. The first two codes have to do with fuel rail pressure. The next does not appear valid in my shop manual. If it is P2455, that's for a diesel particulate filter reference and to be ignored if the first two were thrown. The last code means the ECT reached 300 degrees. I suspect a bad ground(s), battery cable corrosion or a short in a battery cell. Low electrical power can cause all sorts of mayhem but on the surface to us, appears perfectly fine.

I also use the cruise control almost exclusively while driving, except during landings and takeoffs! It never fails, we're cruising along at 71 mph and the same knucklehead will pass you three or four times or more. After the second time, my policy is to no longer move over for them as they are not paying attention, go around knucklehead. I've had some real screwballs like Marty encountered, driving slow as molasses and all of a sudden feel the need to establish dominance if you want to pass or change lanes near them, crazy folk. A great many of these impatient and reckless drivers we encounter at the next stop light, exit or rest area. More than a few times I've had the same folks pass my rig in every state from Florida to New York. We were doing 60 or 65 at the time and they were running just as fast as they could get away with and yet, they kept passing our rig. Foolish.

Nice Cliff. Looks real similar to the Snapper trailers sold over here. I got to borrow a friends when we were moving and to pick up furniture and it towed real nice. It also had the taller height so you could walk inside without bending over.

Yes! One cat had been replaced prior to purchase and this one failed first and the other factory one about a month before we replaced the entire Y-Pipe. I bought the Magnaflow system with 2 new cats and the resonator/cat. Sold the old y-pipe and "3" cats to the scrap yard for some money. The design and flow of the pipes has improved performance, picked up about 7 horsepower at the rear wheels compared with 2-3 months before replacement.

It's been a few weeks, how is it now?

I believe those only look at the ECM and not the Chassis or BCM. Anything related to Onstar will be stored in the BCM.

That's great Freddy! Good luck with it!

Mine were that way then would throw a code at shorter and shorter intervals.

Does your scan tool also read BCM and Chassis codes?

Not complicated but can be expensive as it needs dealer level programming.

Seems to me that you are losing oil pressure at idle for some reason. How many miles now on your twelve year old Yukon? A common LS oil pressure problem is the pick up tube o-ring that goes into the oil pump. If you add two more quarts of oil to the motor and let it idle, and the oil pressure remains normal, you've identified the problem. Don't drive the truck with the extra oil in it! Just idle it to test or stick the nose down a steep ramp and test it. The goal is to submerge the o-ring and pickup tube in oil. There are other causes of low oil pressure and noisy lifters.

Those jelly bean shaped cars are looking more and more like the competition and less unique IMO. We buy American for a reason GM, because we want cars built by Americans not by slaves in socialist countries.

If traveling 60 miles at 70 mph it takes 51 minutes. At 75 mph it takes about 48 minutes. Speed up to 80 and it'll take 45 minutes. Is it worth the risk? Not unless its an emergency. I travel about the speed limit and get passed by all manner of folks in a hurry. Then a few blocks or miles later we catch up and repeat the insanity. Traveled I-4 from Daytona to Orlando and the speed limit progressively got slower as we edged further into Orlando and the construction zones. One curious note was that the most banged up cars were the ones driving the fastest. Bumpers hanging off, crushed fenders, bald tires, etc. We barely touched the brakes while those knuckleheads were always standing on their brakes, going from 90 to 40 and back to 80 to 60 and yo-yoing all over the place.

The tag on the transmission will have a build date with calendar year and Julian Date. Behind the pan and in front of the mount holes, is the VIN Derivative numbers. It can also be on the passenger side just above the rear end of the pan. Again this will include the model year, year built and Julian Date and shift, etc. Enough to know if it's your original or not. Is it a 2WD transmission or a 4WD transmission? Call the police and file a theft report. There's enough missing to make it a felony.