swathdiver

I saw that one too and appreciated it very much. The brushed titanium is a Z71 thing. There are places that sell wraps in just about any color, texture and style you want so customizing them to your liking is easy. About those crew cabs, GM does not give them a gooseneck tow rating because of their short bed though companies do make gooseneck hitches for them and I've seen people towing with them.

Same part number as the original? Know anyone with a Tech-2 to do a proper flash?

I've read on the pages of these forums that 275-65-20s (34" tire) on stock offset wheels do not rub at all even without a lift. Lots of pictures abound too. If yours were mine, I would not run a wheel wider than nine inches.

The K2s (2014+) had many teething issues such as the new rear axles that caused vibrations. You must give them a thorough going over to see if your prospective truck has any issues. One of the pros of the newer ones are their higher towing capacities and more powerful and fuel efficient engines. The GMT-900s are less expensive to repair as they do not have the Direct Injection engines. Like many here, I'm partial to the GMT-900s. Make a Tech-2 or equivalent (MDI2 for K2) part of your budget as you cannot quickly and accurately work on these trucks without the dealer level diagnostic tool. While not as common, the 6.2 in the SLT gave 3.73 gears and upped the tow rating to over 10,000 pounds. I also require my vehicles to have the Integrated Trailer Brake Controller just because I like it.

Chicom cats last a year if you're lucky. Walker makes a system as does Magnaflow. I put a Magnaflow Y-Pipe and cats on mine 31K miles ago and so far so good. There are Federal Emissions, California and New York and the only difference I can see is that the California cats have CARB numbers stamped on them. My truck has California emissions but I forgot and put Federal cats on it.

Well, tell me this: do you have the 2014s engine wiring harness and computer? If so, keep VVT. If not, leave it disconnected, won't throw a code when using your original harness and ECM. VVT was good for a solid 1 MPG and broadened the torque band, brought in peak torque about 400 rpms sooner.

Did you try swapping O2 sensors from bank to bank? Really though, when a P0420 is thrown, it's the cat. Even the wagons could have had the 4.8 too in the lower trim level Tahoes and Yukons from 2007 to 2009.

This is the difference between them. Yours has a single pattern camshaft and does not have Variable Valve Timing. The new engine has a dual pattern camshaft with VVT which is good for a solid 1 MPG. You have several options here: 1. Leave it disconnected. 2. Use the donor engine wiring harness and computer and flash the ECM to your VIN. 3. Add the wiring to your existing harness and pin the ECM and update your ECMs firmware to accommodate VVT. 4. Swap covers and physically delete VVT and leave it disconnected. Your donor engine has a number of improvements over the original 2009 version. They are: 1. The driver's side valve cover has an improved PCV system to reduce oil consumption. 2. The VLOM under the intake for AFM is greatly improved as are the lifters but there are newer ones even better since. 3. The pressure relief valve in the oil pan now has a deflector to reduce oil consumption. This is a good time to pull the oil pan on the 2014 motor and replace the oil pump's pick up tube o-ring. They fail at about 160K and kill the engine's oil pressure.

Yes, but they are not necessarily plug and play. Your engine does not have VVT and the 2014 motor does. If you got the ECM and wiring harness with the new engine, drop it in and have the VIN flashed and your good to go. If not, you have the option of adding VVT to your existing wiring harness and computer or you can physically delete it or just leave it unplugged with your original harness and ECM. Does that make sense?

Have you changed the fluid? If so, what method and what fluid was used?

Thanks for the analysis Marty. A lot of this is Greek to me but after reading it a few times is starting to make sense. I did not find anything on that link that showed chain length or maybe didn't click in the right places but did find those numbers that matched those from the sheet. So how would you compare this oil to plain old Mobil One? My observations are that this ACDelco oil makes the engine quieter at start up and running and slightly more fuel efficient too. After two oil changes and 12K miles an oil sample showed better wear numbers and oil performance compared with the old regular M1.

Doesn't take too long, I keep a memo pad in the truck and write everything down after filling up and then transfer it to the spreadsheet later. I'll be creating some blank logs as we'll be adding two more trucks to the stables soon, I can send one over if you want, they're in Excel.

Section 1: Identification, very first page on the copy I have. Don't remember where it was found but remember it was obscure website. Engine Oil SDS Sheet - 88865743 - 10-9147.pdf

Interesting, the SDS for the part numbers in my possession (10-9147 and 10-9163) show Phillips66 and is dated July 2017.

Why not try the oil and filter designed for the truck (ACDelco) for a spell and then send in an oil sample for analysis? My own testing an analysis revealed ACDelco's oil to run better and cause less internal wear than regular Mobil One. In addition, the K&N filter with the 1" nut on the bottom also proved superior to the M1 EP oil filter. The numbers for Shell Gas Truck closely mirror ACDelco's oil.