Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

I just found a pretty big damage on the left front tire sidewall. My tires 61K miles on them and I think still okay for 20K more as I have rotated them every 7500 miles and they still have decent threads. I guess the best way I can go is buying a used same tire from junkyard/tire shop and use it until I need all new 4. If I buy one new tire and replace it now, is it still a good move, functionally and financially? I mean tire stores usually give discounts when all 4 tires are purchased. Thanks.

IMG_4104.jpeg

Edited by Interleukin6
  • Sad 1
Posted

I had the similar issue, a landscape staple in the sidewall. I did replace this one tire at 20,000 miles. At approximately 35,000 miles I chose to replace the stock tires with Michelin Defender LTX same size as stock from Costco. This was due to the poor wet traction of the stock tires which I believe were Goodyear. 

 

Your tires are going to age out soon so I would replace all four if you're planning on keeping the vehicle for a while. 

Posted

At 60K miles, I would definitely replace all 4 tires.  You might be surprised how well your truck rides with some new rubber hitting the road.

 

OTOH, if you’re struggling financially, you gotta do what you gotta do.  Either way, you need to get that tire taken care of right away before it blows and you’re looking at getting a new rim, or worse.

  • Like 1
Posted

If you're getting one new tire, you may as well get two.  That way you won't be throwing off the ABS or something else with the difference in tire diameters.

 

And if you're getting two, some tire places have the deal buy 3 get the 4th free, so all you would need to do in buy a third tire and then have a full set.  

 

Or go to a junkyard and try to find a tire with the same amount of tread and same overall diameter.  

Posted

I never buy just one. Usually it’s 4 because of rotation. I never run tires past 60K miles. Usually by then time comes into play. At the risk of jinxing myself I never had to change a flat on my vehicles. I don’t ever cheep out on tires. 

  • Thanks 1
Posted

Same here Stan.  They get replaced after 4 years or so and or when they are down to about 1/2 usable tread depth.

 

The old tires get sold for a couple hundred bucks.  

 

Tires are what's between you, your wife and the road.  Get the best you can afford and replace them before they wear out.

  • Like 1
Posted

61K on a set of truck tires is pretty good, imo they owe you nothing at this point. Unless you are cash strapped and dont have the money I would just replace all 4 as it is about that time anyways imo.

  • Like 1
Posted
On 9/30/2025 at 9:27 AM, BIGDOGx said:

61K on a set of truck tires is pretty good, imo they owe you nothing at this point. Unless you are cash strapped and dont have the money I would just replace all 4 as it is about that time anyways imo.

I agree. I would replace all 4 at 60,000 if you can afford it.

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

I buy 5.  I replaced the donut under the bed with a full size and matching OE wheel.  285/75R18 fits in the stock spare tire area.  I also run a 5 tire rotation every 5k miles.  The thought processs here is something you would've benefited from: If one of the tires becomes damaged, I'm able to swap that tire with the spare and continue with a 4 tire rotation until it's time to replace all tires.  All tires would be same age and wear, as well as the obvious same size and make and model.  Why nobody builds vehicles with full size spares is mind boggling to me.  It's common sense, imo.

Edited by Transient
  • Like 2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,915
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    ChristopherDobson
    Newest Member
    ChristopherDobson
    Joined
  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,320 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Monthly payment is only part of the equation. With today's prices and interest rates, I'd look at the total monthly cost: payment, insurance, registration, fuel, maintenance, and expected repairs. A vehicle that fits comfortably into your budget is usually the better choice than stretching for a higher trim. I've also kept my vehicles longer over the past few years. New cars have gotten expensive enough that driving one for 10+ years, while staying on top of maintenance, often ends up being the most cost-effective approach.
    • 10 Ford and Chevy engines proven to reach 300,000 miles   You may note a common 3K OCI on this list of gas motors. I skipped over the diesels. Dh'O. 
    • Thanks newdude!  By the time manual selection is needed, I'm probably too much of a control-freak to depend on the transmission sensing braking to activate automatic downshifting.  I would be anticipating the situation and already be manually downshifting.   This truck replaced a 2004.5 LLY diesel with the Allison 5-speed.  Putting it in T/H made noticeable differences (when the torque converter locked, upshift points, downshift behavior).  On this 2024 gasser with the 10L1000 I haven't been able to detect much, if any, difference.  Ok, I can never tell now when the torque converter locks up.  But I also don't notice differences in shifting.  For downhills, I've probably already manually downshifted by then anyway.  Since it's also more awkward (than the 2004.5) to engage/disengage I don't even bother.  Or maybe it doesn't really matter with just a 3k lb. camper in the bed?   Thanks also for the list of reasons the charging system might select various voltages.  However, what I am seeing doesn't fall into any of those categories.  It very definitely, and very consistently, rises after coasting/braking.  Maybe not immediately, but not very long after coasting/braking.  Very consistently drops voltage when no longer coasting/braking.  It might also be interacting with the camper battery charging (I might disconnect the camper and see if it changes the charging behavior).  I also need to recheck turning on headlights for when I want to force it to charge the camper.   Another JR, in June I converted the camper to LiFePO4.  Since it's not a good idea to try to charge lithiums directly using truck, I installed a Victron Orion XS DC-DC charger (which BTW is AMAZING!!).  Being cheap, I only had to buy that one item (besides the battery, of course) to do the conversion.  The camper OEM 120v battery charger (only 19 years old and works perfectly) and the truck feed the input to the DC-DC charger (not at the same time).  But I didn't want the camper charger feeding back to the truck so I kept the old separator.  I considered replacing the separator with a 30amp diode but that means more work and might add another 1/2 volt drop.  One thing that surprised me was the voltage drop over the long 10awg wire run, so I can only charge smoothly at 8 amps (because the DC-DC charger is completely configurable).  Another reason I don't want an added voltage drop with the diode.  I might also be a little lazy but all this work is being done under the sink with a small cabinet opening.    
    • apparently CA smog is (or at least was)  checking that the vehicle is using the oem and/or a ca smog approved tune, so I expect you'll fail inspection doing it.
    • yes, leaking exhaust will mess up o2 sensor readings, which in turn messes up fuel trims.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...