Interleukin6

Currently driving a 2022 1500 LTD 2.7T which is my 2nd Silverado. Yes, 99.9% on-road, groceries are heaviest thing on the bed, but I love a truck and especially 2.7T engine. No longer need a roomy space and looking for a smaller one to park easier. I am considering a Colorado Trailboss for price and look (I don’t need much bells and whistles). Anyone has experiences or advices? Is there a significant difference in riding quality? Thanks for dumb questions

Sorry for a late response. I ended up having the original Michelin Primacy LTX at my dealer with a promotion of $1 for 4th tire if buy 3 tires. Thank you all for input above.

Actually I called Michelin and got the same info you told me. Thank you so much.

Sorry for confusion. “2021” was on the prior stock tire and I found “2325” on the inside sidewall of the brand new tire. Thank you for good information.

I confirm these tires mounted inside out by dealer saying it is still ok. The manufacturing date code is currently on the inside sidewall. However, the thread pattern is obviously asymmetrical which must be installed outside outwards. What should I do?

Oh I just noticed the new tires are missing 4 digits of numbers (manufacturing #of week and year) after “OOXX” because the original tires had “OOFX” followed by “2021” I think dealer mounted the new tires backwards? I can’t check them right now because of heavy rain. If it is the reason, is it ok to mount these tires backwards? I don’t see any mark saying these tires are directional.

Just have got 4 brand new Michelin Primacy LTX tires (original) purchased and installed at Chevy dealer but I found “OOXX” as manufacturing date on the sidewall instead of 4 digits of actual numbers. What does “OOXX” mean? Is it something old/rebuilt/renewed one? Thx.

My 2022 1500 LTD LT is now running on Michelin Primacy LTX but I need to replace them. Any recommendations? I am a 99.9% pavement princess. Riding comfort is #1 but also need good traction in heavy snow in New England. Heaviest loading is Costco groceries. No hauling. Thank you.

My truck gives “Front brake pads < 1800 mi Remain” at 65K miles. I have read so much bad things ending up with limping mode after self replacement of pads & rotors. Dealer price starts from $825 for them. My friend who is a car mechanic said it is ok to wait until I hear noise. Outer pads look decent but inner pads are relatively not. Is it common thing on our trucks? Should I wait more or just replace them? This new technology “brake pad sensor” gives me stress.

I just found a pretty big damage on the left front tire sidewall. My tires 61K miles on them and I think still okay for 20K more as I have rotated them every 7500 miles and they still have decent threads. I guess the best way I can go is buying a used same tire from junkyard/tire shop and use it until I need all new 4. If I buy one new tire and replace it now, is it still a good move, functionally and financially? I mean tire stores usually give discounts when all 4 tires are purchased. Thanks.

I have a 2022 LTD LT 2.7T. It seems that these engines are well known to consume oil. I am adding 0.25 qt every 1000 miles. Otherwise, the truck has been good (currently at 58k miles). Also read other engines are also consuming oil too. What is going to happen in the future if engines keep eating up oil like this? Am I going to face major repairs requiring $xxxx to fix when more than 100k miles something? I think there is nothing I can do about this. I just change oil every 3500-4000 miles.

2022 LTD LT 2.7T with 8 speed. I changed transmission fluid and filter at 45k miles by myself. Now at 51k miles. Mine has been mildly jerking when going a pretty long (more than a quarter mile) uphill at 50-70 mph on the way home from work. It disappears when the gas pedal is released and pressed again at that time. Otherwise it never recurs under any driving conditions. Is the transmission going bad or any other part(s) being broken? Thanks for your input.

Again, mine (GM diff gasket) was already torn and pretty badly stuck on the mating surface of the diff and cover when I took out the cover. It looked like a coated paper material. Of course, new gasket seemed same. When I changed the transmission fluid, the gasket was like a thick plastic/rubber. The gasket of AAM rear diff looks similar to the transmission gasket. Highly doubt GM one is reusable… Anyone who has SU8 plans rear diff fluid change, get a new gasket before taking off the cover!!!

Mine is SU4 & SU8. Looks like the gasket of AAM rear differential (SU7) seems to be a rubber, easy to be removed, and reusable. GM one (part# 84412728) is NOT!!!!!!

Let me ask another questions. This was first time for me to change the different fluid in my life. My GM one has a paper-like gasket already stuck on the mating surface of the diff. I used a razor blade to take it off, making some mild scratches on the surface. I read later these scratches would cause leaks eventually… then I got scared…. So far nothing has been dripping for 3 days. I see many are using a flat head screwdriver, razor blade, or metal scraper to take off the stuck gasket but some say that only plastic one should be used because plastic does not scratch metal… if it starts leaking, a RTV sealant will be the one rather than OEM gasket? Sorry for multiple questions. What are the pros and cons of gasket vs RTV sealant? Thanks.

I checked it right after the fluid in and on the following day after my truck was parked on the drive way for more than 12 hours.

I checked the level again today. My truck was completely leveled, which was confirmed by the dashboard. No fluid was seeping. The fluid was at the fill hole. Weird.. it is definitely overfilled from 2.64 qts but still meets “0-20 mm below fill hole”

I used ACDelco 10-4122 (GM 19368514) which was clean straw colored.

I used OEM GM gear fluids. To sump up, as long as the fluid does not come out from the fill hole, it should be ok… right?

Mine is SU8. As per the service manual, it seems that I am ok…. 0.0-20 mm…, right? 0.0 mm means right at the level of the fill hole. Am I right?

I just changed the rear differential fluid. My 2022 LTD LT has a GM rear differential supposed to take 2.64 qts but it actually took all 3 qts. I was waiting for a little drip from the fill plug hole to stop while adding new fluid, but again it took all 3 qts. The fluid level was right below the fill hole. Should I take out extra 0.36 qts or I will be okay? Thank you.

Thank you so much!

Please educate me further. I can’t play YouTube you linked for some reason now. The description of G80 I got from my dealer is “axle, rear, positraction, limited slip” What am I missing? Thank you.

Hi, My rear differential is GM (SU8 with G80 positraction limited slip & GU6 3.42 ratio). I am about to change the differential fluid. Is ACDelco 10-4122 (GM 19368514) 75W-85 DEXRON Low Viscosity Gear Oil right one? I’ve read some say G80 needs LS additives or others say “no”. I think G80 doesn’t need additives but please confirm it for me. Thank you.

2022 LTD LT with no drain plug. If I change the front differential fluid by sucking out the old fluid as much as I can with a fluid pump then putting a new fluid without taking off the differential cover and removing metal debris on the magnet, is this way still ok? Better than nothing or no point to do this if old metal debris is not removed by taking off the cover? It looks like a pain in the neck. There is no room, and I don’t want to disconnect the connector for the steering gear to make a room. For the rear differential, yes I will take off the cover! Thank you for the answer in advance.