tuckin22

So, I know a while back you had a quick markup attached. I found someone had marked something up on here (couldn’t find the thread I came from so apologies if it is biting off whoever did it) that was basically explaining from point a to b, I was searching for something else and thought of this thread here. I haven’t verified it completely as I am not there yet. But thought it might help. POWER SLIDING REAR WINDOW INFO.pdf

Just wanted to circle back on this and share what I did. I didn’t take any pictures of the process. So I will try to explain what I did best I can. I de-pinned everything and got the connector off. Then removed the black portion inside the connector. There are 4 tabs that hold it in. I had to push them away from the black portion then pull on the purple tpa. See first picture. Once I got that out, the connector housing is just a shell. I used a screwdriver to break off the tab inside and then a drill bit in my hand to clean up the rest of the tab inside the hole. See second picture. Once I did that, I lined up the hole in the drill press and sent it on through. For the power wire in Phil’s kit, 5/32 seemed to work best, for the ground, it was 5/16.

Also, noticed that there is a special tool needed to de-pin. Any tricks to de-pin this so I can use a drill press?

Ok. Thanks for the reply. How much of a pain is it to fully remove the tpa? To give me a good chance to minimize drilling damage. Haven’t found much on that even in the body builder manuals.

Hello All, Trying to pass power through on the passenger seat but the holes are blocked off. Driver was easy, just pull out plug and insert new wires. But not the case on the passenger side. Has anyone else had this? If so what did you do? Drill it? Would be terrified of going all the way through and rendering it useless. Buy a new connector? Tried searching connector part numbers and none seem to show whether they are the same or not.

Why the aftermarket molding? GM not offer chrome in a double cab? looking good though.

You going to add more? Make it a bit more like the Denali? Mirror caps, grille, door strips, window trim? If so then go for it. Otherwise, I think the color matched look is a bit better. Seemed like you were going the color matched route for a bit. I know I have gone back and forth redoing things before myself. Haha

Bump

Nice transformation thus far. Doing something similar. Except single cab. Would’ve liked GM to have a higher trim single cab. But oh well. Looking forward to the finishing up of the power slider. What’s your plan to getting it going? Any factory wiring integration? Or just custom wire it all yourself?

Got these wheels and tires on a truck I just bought. Not my style. Have a few rashes. Shown in pictures. Wheels look to be Fuel Couplers. 20x10 2- bolt patterns, they appear to be the following when measuring: 6x135 6x139.7 Tires: 35x12.50R20 Toyo Open Country $1300 OBO local pickup preferred as shipping would be over 400lbs. Apologies for sideways photos.

Yes. What he said. Sorry I thought I put that in my response. Must have deleted it. I have most of it drafted up. I still have a couple more kinks that I am currently trying to work out on the auto ride mess.

Correct. It is a reverse level. Truck is pretty much square. I am working on a write up on what I did.

22” Chrome 6-split spokes on stock tires. Reverse leveled with belltech 6403 shackles.

This ever get figured out? Having the same issue on mine. I ordered some shims but am worried about the center pin not sticking out far enough.

Well. I did some more calculating. Think it’s going to be around 4°. Read that the leaf spring bolts need to be replaced as they are torque to yield. Anyone know if that is the same for the leaf pack bolt as well as the torque specs? Also if there is a part number for it? Found part numbers for the u bolts and nuts. 15872657 11549170