Merry Christmas everyone! just took my new tablet out with the torque pro app. The oil pressure on there is erratic too. So must rule out the cluster. I quickly checked under the hood. That ground on passenger back that’s supposed to goto the back block. It seems a little hack job and does goto the firewall bolt that wire end seems kinda brittle too. I’ll have take it somewhere I can take a better look. does that have to go on the back block or can I cut it and route it anywhere on the motor ? Just trying see if I can avoid pulling intake off again lol. thanks again for everyone’s help.
I’ll have find a friend that’ll let me work on my truck and take the intake off to have a look. (Can no longer to car work at my apartment , it’s where the motor swap was done lol) I know the battery to bottom block ground is there. Just not the back of the block by the oil sensor.
I know this wire off the harness that goes to the firewall never use been there before. He also had the battery to block ground on the firewall. Which I moved to the block. todays trip from work to home (10 min drive) gauage mostly stuck on zero with the occasional fluctuations. Motor sounded fine. yes the sensor was changed with this motor that’s in it now as I had this issue short after this motor was put in. I know the coolant level sensor isn’t plugged in anymore. What also makes me curious is the ground wire he got off the harness on the passenger wire which I think goes to firewall as well. I took it to a garage before and they weren’t no help. And it sucks how I can’t even pop my hood where I live anymore lol. edit: should note , sometimes when it says zero pressure it doesn’t say low oil pressure. When some other times it can
Thanks for everyone’s reply. I haven’t had chance. But I’m gonna assume there’s no ground on back block or on the opposite side of the oil sensor. I know there is a firewall to transmission bolt ground. it’s a weird thing to try to diagnose as the oil gauage works sometimes. Other times it will sit zero and say low oil pressure (yet motor sounds fine). And then either come back or fluctuate. It can even say 550 (80 psi) at idle 600 ish rpm.
Hi guys and gals. Had a motor change done recently as old motor blew up due to low oil pressure (ended being a really clogged pickup tube screen ) anyhow , there is is this black wire off the harness on the drivers side. The buddy who I got motor from got it on the firewall bolt. I didn’t see it there before the swap. So I’m wondering if it’s in the wrong spot. I tried moving it and removing it and I get reduced power with it disconnected and the truck doesn’t turn off with the key. can anyone kindly help me ? also I do see a ground he spliced into on the passenger rear that he also put on the firewall bolt. it is a 2004 Silverado 5.3 im curious about this all as the oil pressure sometimes fluctuates bad. Can max at 550 or goto zero (no lifter tap at zero).
The negative battery cable. The one end goes to the frame ? It’s on the firewall bolt atm.
Hey guys got a 2004 Silverado , my old motor seized from low oil pressure so got a replacement put in. Its running rough and gauges go funny at times and lights come on cluster and off randomly at times as well as doors sometime lock and unlock themselves while driving. It it is showing codes p0641 p0327 p0101 this motor was running fine in the truck it was in before it was taken out and put in my truck. Have found clyinder 8 plug to be broke so I replaced that. Possible the other plugs broke from the manifold when putting them on. My my questions is the engine codes. What do I do? And would a cracked plug cause these electric issues ? it did have a p0300 code yesterday but after scanning it today it is gone. Yet on real time data it does show a few cylinders missing (I will check the plugs tomorrow) it it does have a little harder to start it it cranks fine but it takes a little longer to start any help great appreciated im pulling my hair lol.
Went out and messed with the truck again today. Looked at cylinders 3 and 4 as torque scan was showing them misfire count most around 400. I found two plugs had the top part cracked where the wire goes on. Imagine that was some of it. They were the cheapest ac delco plugs I could buy. Possibly explain why I hear a spark noise now and then. Mean any time I thrown the older ac plat plugs I took out of it in the place. Misfire count is now down to 0 on them cylinders. Have feeling ing I’ll be checking the other plugs, but for today I only checked four of them. And yet I think it runs a little better. Question though, if I had a misfire count of like 8 on cylinder 8. Is this ok or is it always supposed to be 0. Thanks everyone one for their time btw.
What has got me wondering after thinking. When I got the truck there was a wire in the box in the protective covering. Wondering if there’s a ground or something that got ripped out. I tried different fuel pumps same results. The fuel pump whine goes with the dim of the dome lights and such too at times.
I keep reading about crank re learns? Is this something that needs to be done time to time. / would it hurt to get one done / is it capabale with the torque pro app? there ngk wires I had bought new for the truck. I think I’m going to try get set ngk or ac delco plats plugs for it. Sense I had thrown the new cheap ac plugs in I noticed it hesitation on dead stop. We also tried to adjust the gap on the plugs.
That I’m not sure. Bought truck few months ago , I know I’m still not getting right fuel mileage. After er I changed the intake gasket it does seem to be more throttle response. But it you can still feel a little rough idle. And the dome lights slightly dim with it too. Your thinking ing I should test to see if coils , are weak ? No way really without a timing light ? Edit: actually you can hear what sounds like a spark noise sometimes , I put new wires and plugs in it recently.
Just picked up a new one. $50 cad. Something else i noticed is you can you can hear what I think is spark noise randomly. I heard it on both banks I think. But can’t pin point what cylinder exactly. It had new new wires and plugs few months ago to try to fix this. But it I don’t want to go get coils if it’s not them. And I’d prob get used ones that are confined to work tho
I’ll be driving the truck like this till I get a new one. Mean time , could it be some reason rough idle and is it going to really hurt to keep driving until I get one? I know one the codes odes was a evap code
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