john61ct

Yes, exactly, that's the data I've been working off. I will need some loading in the TV as well, and prefer to not go past 70-80% of max rating. I was thinking I just can't go with Suburban, but they're so much cheaper than the alternatives. So my question still stands.

Exactly what I want in a Suburban for towing, but the 2500 isn't rated for the 12K# I need. Is it hard / pricy to beef up rear suspension to 3500 ?

Wow. Thanks for the followup

So if you wanted to pull a heavy trailer, say 14000+#, swapping in a 3500 rear end wouldn't get a bigger diff?

Different engine, gearbox, suspensions. . . SAE J2807 standard came in between, so measured differently. I would see what insurance has to say, 5th wheel can easy make a 3000# difference. Of course all assume no other cargo load **at all**.

The key metrics are total cost per mile and total cost per year, including amortizing the purchase price, insurance / registration, taxes, fuel maintenance, repairs everything. The first few years' depreciation on a new one will be **lots** higher than any repair costs. And after 150K, those Duramax maintenance and rebuild costs will be much higher than a Vortec. I bet $1 a mile would be a pretty close balpark for a gasser, start with a few grand in an account, add $1 per mile as you drive, or say $400 a month minimum when she sits, you'll probably see it grow fast enough to keep up, and even save for a rebuild, or its replacement.

Preach it brother, could not agree more. If anyone sees a 3500 in 4x4, any body type please post here. Locking diff G80 should be standard for that? Or not? I know a manual's too much to ask for right?