I can't say 100% electrical will work due to connector styles and changes. But should be same electrical parts, so chop and splice in connectors from new cab to match truck if need be. Only body controls are inside cab. I believe engine pcm is front drivers side fender-ish.
This is a tricky one. Accidents open a lot of variables. Air bags go off? Just small fender bender? Sounds like security isn't letting start. If truck unlocks with key fob then your looking at hooking up scanner to see if computer is demanding start up. Before check fuses, battery bolts etc....
What kind of smell out the exhaust? Eye burning like raw fuel? Or fireworks smell? If you can go to a parts store and scan it, maf grams should be at 4.5-5.5 at idle warm and such. Gm relies on maf for a lot. Sounds like your truck is staying in open loop or vacuum leak.
Cammedsilveradodude replied to Izak's topic in Gen III and IV Small Block & DrivetrainAlso check make sure tire size is same all around etc....
Cammedsilveradodude replied to Izak's topic in Gen III and IV Small Block & DrivetrainThe best and most accurate way to diagnose this over internet would be remove front driveline and see if it drives better. If so then t case is the only other component that can cause your symptom. Other than front CV axles which I would assume you checked out and felt them when front diff was removed and installed new one. I work at a transmission shop and see GM t cases blown quit often.
2004 silverado 5.3 2wd. I just installed a teaxas speed 216/220 112lsa cam with a 2000 stall converter and it works the best. You will HAVE to tune for this as it will barely run afterwards. I simply spent the money on an HPtuners software for laptop and paid tsp tune emailed to me (casey does tuning at tsp) and then final tuned it myself. You definatly do not want a 3k stall converter and this is coming from a guy working at a tranny rebuild shop. When towing you will constantly be at the higher rpm due to tow haul mode. This will build up heat and isn't needed. My 2k stall is perfect but I don't tow so I am opting for a 2500 stall. (I've tried 3 converter stalls within a month a d rebuilt 4l60e) .
Do not have to pull heads for lifters. Just intake and valve cover then push rods. Does the engine oil pressure fall when this happens? Gen 3 motors are prone to oil pump pickup tube seal hardening after time and leaks air into oil system causing pockets of air to circulate. Make sense when oil is at the thinnest being warmed up vs cold or high rpm.
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I work at a transmission shop and rebuilt my 60e. I used a corvette servo (along with Hp tuners higher line pressure) and now shifts like any other gear and very crisp. The key is to use D-rings from somnax. It's a rubber seal instead of teflon type seal which is much better for fluid and air checking. A longer band pin is better too. The ring count is usually 2 ring but I installed a 3 ring for a tighter fit. Also did a beast sun shell and other goodies.
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