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About FourthandShort

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  1. The one thing I can think of off the top of my head are the door chimes, turn signal indicators, and warning sounds (seat belt chime and low fuel dings). All of those go through the stereo system on my 2008 GMC Sierra Denali. There was an adapter which I purchased which allowed me to keep the door chimes and factory noises while changing the stereo. I might leave the bose amp, and just run the wires to the pre-amp portion of the new amp and use the new amp to power your new speakers. This way, everything flows through and you are taking the raw audio coming out of the amp, into your new amp. The new amp powers everything and you can keep crossover controls, etc. The amp in my 2008 Denali, is located under the center console, and to get it out, you have to remove the entire center console. It isn't complicated, but it takes time. I replaced my amp when I thought it had gone bad. Turned out I just needed to have it reflashed by a dealer after my battery died. I think the Sub is actually a 6.5 or so speaker with a crossover mounted in the dash. Mine is at least. It doesn't sound like a real sub because it isn't a real sub, its a speaker setup to put out a small amount of extra base.
  2. Thank you very much. I really appreciate it. I have removed the top once before and it was a breeze. Thanks again for the help on the trim piece.
  3. So the center console in my Sierra has the Luxury package and the leather is cracked where my elbow rests on it. In addition the hinge has cracked and come apart so it doesn’t close smoothly. You have to push down on the back to get it to close fully. I am looking at ordering a replacement lid, however the ones I am seeing don’t have the wood grain inlay. Can I remove the trim from the one I have now? If so how hard is it to remove that trim? Thanks in advance.
  4. I think that’s probably where it’s leaking. If it is the side plastic do I need to replace the entire radiator?
  5. So today I came out of walmart to my truck and found an orange puddle of coolant in front of the driver side front tire. I recently noticed my coolant was low so I refilled it and haven't noticed this size of a leak previously. I got home and again saw a larger puddle of coolant on the ground in front of the tire. It looks like a slow drip. Any suggestions? I opened the hood and checked the return line and it appears to be fine with no evidence of a leak. I wanted to ask before I started pulling the tire wall back to see what I could find.
  6. This was what I was coming to recommend checking. That was my problem.
  7. If you are running the original plugs, you might as well change all of them. Check cyl 4 plug for carbon build up - an injector may be stuck open. Use a timing light to see if it is firing. If not swap the coils with another cyl to see if the misfire moves. If yes, a new coil is needed, if not, a new wire is needed To everyone who has responded, I wanted to say thank you. I usually perform most of my own maintenance and the truck only gets driven about 10k miles a year. I don't believe I remember when I last changed the plugs so that is a great start and is exactly what I was thinking it might be. I asked as I had an engine oil leak recently and researched on here that it was more than likely the main seal which is known for wearing out on these types of vehicles. I really was hoping this was a similar issue where a rough start was something common on this truck for a specific reason. It seems that old shitty plugs and wires are a common cause for this. I was also trying to see if anyone else could help narrow it down as I only experience the issue for about 30 seconds on startup after the truck has sat for an extended period of time. If I drive the vehicle for a short time, and come out to start it up, it fires up perfectly without any issue. Its not an easily replicated issue unless I leave it sitting for a day or so. I assumed bad plugs would effect the engine continuously and would be a problem each time the vehicle started, instead of only happening after sitting a while. I also thought a faulty injector would show symptoms consistently rather than sporadically. It seems as it might be related to the AFM as the #4 Cyl is the one which controls this and was the only cylinder misfiring when I hooked up the computer. All other look good. I was considering running some seafoam through the engine as well to try and clean anything out, however I was unsure if additives could cause additional problems. Thanks again for the help on this. I am looking at selling the truck to upgrade and don't want to hand someone else a bunch of problems. Thanks again to anyone who has contributed, I took it to the shop and they were even clueless to what the problem could be and also suggested swapping plugs, wires, and coils.
  8. Thank you for the feedback. The scanner is telling me its cylinder number 4 with the misfires. Should I just change them all? Also the scanner isn't pulling an codes, it tells me no codes found. The lights come on and then after a few seconds, everything clears up.
  9. I had a quick question about an issue that started recently and hasn't gone away. When I start my truck after having it sit over night, it will idle rough and in some cases, I get warning lights that the Stabilitrack and Traction Control Systems need service. I get the CEL on, and after a few moments, everything settles down and it runs fine. I was concerned it was a bad tank of gas, so I ran the tank through and filled up a few times and now the problem seems to have lessened but is still happening every so often. I hooked up my computer and its not throwing any codes. However on one cylinder, I saw a history of a few misfires. Not a lot, but some. Any ideas?
  10. Quick question for you all, I flushed my coolant yesterday on my 2008 GMC Sierra Denali. I removed lower hose from radiator, drained, replaced hose. Then removed upper hose, filled overflow from hose, and ran the engine and heater on full blast, letting the water run through the radiator until it was clean. Then connected the upper hose, and removed lower again to drain anything else. I then cleaned everything up, and added a gallon of concentrate DexCool and a gallon of distilled water. The truck won't take any more fluid. I read the engine doesn't empty when you do it this way, but I thought the coolant capacity was over 4 gallons on the V8. I am concerned that with adding the water from the hose, and then only a 50/50 mix, that I might be using a lot more water than DexCool, can the testers you buy tell you around what ratio I am at? Does the engine really hold 2 gallons of coolant? I drove it all today watching the temps and nothing spiked or anything. Its running great.
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