Yes. It's been about a year since I replaced my switches. 1-Trim bezel snaps out of the clips. 2-Then the display comes out next (4-6 screws). 3-Temprature controls. Remove power lead clips carefully so you can set the items out of the way. 4-Now you can get to the screws on the switch. Don't rush, take your time. Jim
It's Possible, but not for everyone. 1. Need to source parts. 2. Take apart the dash. 3. Install/ pull new wiring. It's mostly about time. I have most my wire installed and a nice switch with 4 AUX switches. 6 months on and off as I find time to mess with it. Hope that helps.
Hello All, I stayed up very late last night to pan through the entire topic. I am getting all my parts together. 23145191 switch (perfect line up of options for my truck) relay/ fuse box (engine compartment) connector pins for X1 (10-13) What size / gage wire should I use with those pins at X1? What size / gage wire should I use at the relay/ fuse box? Thanks for all the great advice, I'm moving forward with confidence and the extra "diods". Jim
I love the information posted here! I drive a '18 Sierra SLE for work that I travel home in daily. I'm adding many lights, going for the upfitter switches. I'll be installing them myself. Planning the process out now. My truck has T/C, bed lamps & HDC(hill decent control). I found and ordered this switch. Picture below Now trying to find a "narrow" profile HDC switch to replace my new switches #3 position CNG switch. It's a lot to do, but I'm willing to go for it! Thanks for your advice and help. Jim
Hi Dale, Did you use a deep cycle battery? I would like to use the standard tapered block to hold down the second battery rather than a bungee cord. deep cycle batteries don't have the indent do they? Did you use a battery isolator? What are you powering?
I forgot to ask what you would like to power at the back of your truck? I also plan on using a good quality battery isolator. If cost does not go to high displaying voltage and amps in the cab of the second battery would be great!
I am glad I am not alone! We may end up leading the way. I will list a few more thoughts I have been thinking about. 1. I plan on using a DEEP CYCLE battery to achieve a long run time without running the motor. 2. I plan on having two nice white LED flood lights (adjustable angels) to illuminate a large work area. A. These lights should be mounted as high as possible to prevent blinding self going back to the tailgate ( my portable work bench). B. I was considering using the trailer hot lead for the power source as it is factory and should be a 10 or 12 gage wire. C. I would have to verify it comes from the B+ (always hot). Then re-locate that lead to my future second battery. I seldom tow a trailer that would benefit from the intended use (recharging the trailers battery used for powering the electric brakes in the event of break away). Or just run my own lead to the back myself. D. I have may want to have this switch mounted in the cab next to the after market strobe switches installed before I got the truck from my employer. I get to take this work truck home each day! I want to keep all this practical as to be able to get it done. Have it be well thought through. And beneficial fore regular use. JIm
I'm in the same boat. 2018 sierra SLE. I have aftermarket strobes, that could be wired to a second battery. I would be able to run them for many hours without running the motor and also without fear of running down the primary battery. My truck has a 110 volt outlet that is only live when running the motor. Wondering how long it could run on a second battery if I could relocate that power lead. Any help would be great!
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