d9gdon

Thanks for that...doesn't sound too bad if I can track down the part.

My pickup throws a P1098 on my 3.0L Duramax which points to the Engine Coolant Control Valve needing replaced. My engine temp will get past 210 for a bit and sometimes it'll turn the cooling fans on high in 40 degree weather. I've been clearing the code and continue to drive it. Of course, it's got 104K miles on it so no warranty coverage. Wondering if any techs could post the install instructions? Can't find anything on YouTube...

I know that I can't be the only one that has a leaking door seal allowing wind noise in my 2021 Silverado RST 3.0 Duramax Crew Cab 4WD. I tried searching this forum but didn't find anything. I searched the internet and don't see my issue either. I have had both front door gaskets replaced twice and it still hasn't fixed the wind noise in the cab. I know they're leaking because I have driven down a dusty road and you can see where the dust entered between the seals. I have had two different dealers change out the seals. I know that I'm not the only one because my dealer told me that they have worked on others and some are fixed afterward and some are worse. I just had them changed today for the second time and it's as bad as it was or worse. It's hard to tell because it's very windy outside today. The rear doors don't seem to leak. When the wind is calm outside, I can't hear it leaking but if I drive in a crosswind then it really leaks bad. I don't know what to do from here but I'm still not satisfied. I hate it too because this little pickup is everything I want; great ride, looks good, all the comfort that I want, fantastic fuel mileage, and shifts great with the 10 speed. Makes me want to pull a Thelma and Louise at the closest cliff.

Mine definitely has wind noise on the passenger side front door, and after driving on a gravel road i can see the dust imprint where the rear door seal is not sealing on the passenger rear door either. I noticed it on the truck when I first drove it at the dealer. I had the dealer note the noise on the first maintenance report since I couldn't have them look at it that day. I took a trip to Yellowstone over the next few days and it was really noticeable, especially with a cross wind in Wyoming. If you place a dollar bill at the seal and close the door, you'll notice that you don't have to tug very hard to pull it out. You can even see where the seal is deformed where it is connected to form a loop. I'm taking mine to the dealer when I get back from a business trip at the end of September and have them replace the seals. This is just poor QC at the factory.

Just curious what you're getting for mileage out of the 6.2?

I have a 4 core radiator from a 1982 Chevy C20 that needs to have a replacement tank put on the drivers side. I live near Waco, TX and work near Houston during the week. Can somebody recommend a good radiator shop that can supply and replace that radiator tank? I tried Bellmead Radiator with no luck. I have found a new brass/copper replacement radiator from Summit Racing, but it's $450 plus taxes and shipping. I don't really want to put a plastic/aluminum replacement on it because of originality. There's nothing wrong with my radiator except that I ruined the one tank by trying to braze up a leak around the inlet tube and melted large holes in it. I'm willing to ship it somewhere if it's not too expensive. This seems like an easy repair for a good radiator shop. It doesn't even have to be a new tank, just a good used one would work.