Larsson

I didn't had much time to do any testing on the truck past year. But I started again to solve the problem once and for all. I think the high pressure fuel pump is a bit faulty. I did some testing to see if the long and short term fueltrim is ok. With the engine warmed up I first plugged the crankcase ventilation to see if the long term fuel trim stays in spec. It read -3.9% at idle. Then I connected the crankcase ventilation and it read -10%. (Bank 1 and 2 read about the same percentage) So I think the high pressure fuelpump is leaking fuel in the oil. When I turn on the ignition to check the fuelpressure it stays at 250 kpa. And at idle it bounces around 250 kpa and 460 kpa. Even at 3000rpm it doesn't go above maybe 380 kpa. And the fuel rail pressure reads 400 to 500 kpa. So I think I'm going to replace the high pressure fuel pump. It could be a faulty injector but because the fuelpressure is a bit low I think the best way to go is change the fuelpump. What do you guys think?

Hi guys, I recently replaced my thermostat that was stuck open. And now it's working fine again. But I was curious about how the system works. I saw two thermostats. One small one and one big one. How does this operate? I hope to have a learning experience

It seems that the check engine light only comes on when I do short trips of 3 miles or less. Like going to the supermarket at the other side of town and give grandma a lift. When I do longer trips of like 60 or 80 miles it has no issues at all. The coolant temperature hits 210°F at these short trips, especialy now it's summertime and the outside temperature hits 80°F or more. I'm trying to apply the systemtest of Asilverblazer but I'm still learning/ experimenting how all of the tests work in combination with hptuners.

If you look at the fuelpressure which is around 360 kpa in the freezeframe, do you guys think it is a bit low? And what about the fuelrailpressure?

According to my dianostic check the troublecodes are p2097 and p2099. The last time after I reset the dtc only a p2097 popped up. As you can see in the last picture of the freezeframe. Your dianostic aid is very helpfull but the links don't work here in holland. For example, when I click on the "fuel system diagnosis" , I get a no access message on my computer. It's like the website is blocked off. Or maybe it's only for people in the US? I don’t know. Is there perhaps a different way to check the fuel and injector system? Maybe a different link? Thanks for the great input by the way.

Today I got a new check engine light. This is the freezeframe. I noticed that the downstream O2 sensors give different voltages now. So maybe it was just " domb luck"? I'm going to change all 4 of them and go from there.

I did some highway driving last week. About 400miles and the check engine light didn't came on since the last time I cleared the dtc's. Maybe the O2 sensors where a bit dirty? My plan now is to change all 4 O2 sensors and check the wiring from the two sensors past the cat. I keep you guys posted about the outcome. In the mean time every suggestion/help is welcome

I finished work early today so I had some time to check the connectors and wires of the O2 sensors. Everything looks normal. No damaged connectors or wires so far I can see. So I don't know how both the downstream sensors put out the same voltages. Maybe it's an idea just to replace all 4 O2 sensors and see where this leads to?

I'm going to look at the problem this saturday. If the weather stays dry. Let you guys know what I found. In the mean time tips are more than welcome.

I looked back to the photo I shared and noticed it too. Maybe there is a short in the wirering somewhere?

Never changed the oxygen sensors. Maybe start there? Do I have to change all 4 of them? The ones before and after the cat? And only use gm genuine

Does this help to pinpoint the problem?

I'm going to look at the fueltrims this weekend, if I have the time to do so. I'll give you an update as soon as possible. Is it a good idea to pour some cat cleaner in the gastank? Just to see if it helps?

Thanks for the reply. According the YouTube clip it is a problem with the cat. Is it a problem that relates to a lot of short trips with the truck? I have the oem headers installed.

Hi guys, my 5.3L silverado has a strange dtc code which keeps on popping up. I can read the dtc with the hp tuners OBD2 scanner/reader but I can't figure out what the code means. I can delete the check engine light message but after a few hours it comes back on so there is something going on according the computer. The problem is I can't figure out what is going on. Does anyone has an idea? I took some pictures from my laptop of what's wrong according to hp tuners.

Thanks newdude for the service manual specs. If I compare them with the specs I used to set up my differential, I'm in the safe zone. I found a couple of specs on the internet but they all have different numbers. So if you average them, it'll be ok I think.

But I found some shims laying around here in my garage and got the backlash to 0.20mm now. To be on the safe side it's better to respect the given specs.

From which differential are these specs? Every differential has it own specs. There is no thing as "average" specs that can be used for every gm axle. I've found these specs.

It seems the more backlash you have the louder the gears going to sound. So if you're not a great fan of a noisy differential, keep it as close to specs as possible. But it's better to have a little to much backlash than to little ,I think. Because of the lubrication of the gears. I think I'm going to experiment with some different shims. Just to see where that takes me. Thanks for your input

Anyone?

The truck has about 100.000 miles on it. And the gear pattern is within specs. The only thing thats a little "out of spec" is the backlash. The backlash now is 0.01181 inch. And it should be between 0.006 and 0.010 inch. I made a mistake with mm and inches. The specs in mm is between 0.15mm and 0.25mm. And the backlash now is 0.30mm. Sorry about that. All the conversions from inches and mm is a little confusing sometimes.

Hello, My 2014 silverado has got a set of brand new bearings but I kept the same pinion and ringgear. But before I took it appart I mesured the backlash and it was 0.020mm. The specs are between 0.0015mm and 0.0025mm. But now I put it back together and the backlash is 0.0030mm. I want to drive it like this. But what do you guys think?

This is the part I'm talking about. Does anyone has an idea how much amperage the terminals can pass untill they blow? And how is this part called? Thanks guys.

Hi guys, I have a question about the therminals on top of the battery. The terminals which connect the starter and the altenator to the positive battery terminal. These two are not connected via a sort of fuselink. The other terminals which are used for other electrical users are protected via a fusible link. Does anyone know how much amperage these terminals are protected? I hooked up a winch and tested it a couple of days ago but after a heavy pull the winch went dead. No current. The positive cable going to the winch lost power caused by the burning of the fuselink of the terminal. I'm trying to replace the terminals as a unit if anyone has the name of this part. The truck is a 2014 silverado 5.3L gas engine with one battery. Thanks.

Your right on that one DeePa. When I bought the truck 14 months ago I did clean the ground that goes from the negative battery terminal to the chassis. I'm talking about the small wire that is connected near the right front wheel. When I looked at it last week it was a bit rusty again. I think the winter weather had something to do with it. But for now lets keep my fingers crossed. 10 years ago chevrolet was the truck to own here in holland but today Ram took over that spot. There are only a few fords to be seen and fewer chevy's. The reason is that the quality of the electronic parts has gone down a lot dealers say. What do you guys have to say about that? Is the quality of gm trucks getting worse by the years?