No doubt. People will break it down and rationalize that "renting" a premium Cadillac for $50/day is cheaper than driving down to enterprise rent a car and picking up a Camry.
Seems like just another gimmick to lighten your bank account $1,500 every month. Nothing more to me. But I'm just a simple southern boy.
Texas is diesel truck land. Diesel is plentiful here. Price is equivalent to regular gas. I think Trump is gonna see that regulations are lightened and refineries will prove they can produce a sufficient amount of diesel for all of us. Times will be changing.
I think you better wait until pricing comes out! What I hear is tesla won't be able to make the current $35k sale price mark. If they're price some 1.5-2 times more than the bolt that will change. Then there's the company that stands behind the warranty. I've heard some really bad reviews of tesla not standing behind their cars. Of course GM has issues too. I not bias either way, I just wouldn't go all in on tesla until they've proved themselves for a century or so like the other guys.
If the rear connector on the truck is working properly when you check with a test light, that would eliminate the truck and it's fuse from problems. Next, check if the trailer has a battery backup for brakes (if it has electric brakes ALL trailers will have a battery backup), make sure the battery is good. There should be a small box attached to the trailer somewhere inline with the trailer wiring to this box. There may also be a fuse protecting the battery in the box. Also, if the trailer ground wires are loose at any connection, you may also be losing continuity some where on the ground side. It's as simple as tracing the wires and checking the connections are tight. Last place to look, if the trailer has electric brakes, there may be a shorted wire inside the wheel hub requiring removal. If you don't feel confident in tackling the job take it to a competent trailer shop. Edit: Forgot to mention, if you've never had this particular trailer hooked up to your truck's trailer connector, it's possible the trailer's (or your truck's) connector isn't wired the same (matched).
My current Sub, '99 3/4 ton with the Vortec 454 with tan leather. I've owned four, and would pick this one over any of them. Just wish this one had the A/C like my 2005 Sub. You could hang beef in the summer in the back of that one, and black too.
BlueDef for ~8$ per gallon is capable of replacing that expensive AdBlue stuff. We Use it in my wife's X5. BMW gives us 1000 miles worth of warning of low levels before the vehicle won't start. Now, GM can prove to me it's a leader in the diesel field when the start dropping the baby DMax in the Tahoes & Yukons and I can net a similar 26 mpg as in my wife's X5!
I threw up a little in my mouth with that first pic. Couldn't make it thru the entire set.
I've been using Battery Tender for the last two years on my '96 Viper GTS. Works great, I believe it's made in the USA, and under $75. Edit: Forgot to mention, it's a plug-it-and-forget-it battery charger, the Battery Tender.
The biggest change will be the out-the-door price!
Think of it this way. Used to, on throttles, your right foot was connected directly to the throttle plate via the pedal and the attached cable. Now days, the computer controls the throttle via wires carrying an electrical signal. Your foot has no direct connection with the throttle plate anymore. The pedal you mash with your right foot merely sends an electric signal to the computer (no more cable from the pedal to the throttle plate), the computer translates that into voltage, and opens (or closes) the throttle accordingly. Same thing happens when you open the door. Used to, when you'd open your door, the pin would pop out of the door light switch, ground the circuit and pass the voltage along to the interior lights. Now days, when you open the door, the computer receives a low voltage signal that the door is opened, and one of many body control modules passes along that info to the corresponding outlets and activates the lights. You should see the bundles of cables from front to rear in my wife's X5. Nothing mechanical anymore, everything is electrically powered/actuated now.
I have the Duratracs on my 3/4-ton sub, sized 285/75-17, about 33" equivalent, with only about 4-5k miles. They look awesome! But, I have come to the conclusion I WILL go back to BFG's again. These Duratracs pick up and wedge every sized rock in the tread up to about marble size, and are unable to clean themselves out, even at 60 mph, causing the tires to become out of balance and bounce. Plus, they are a softer compound, and my harsh summers eat them quick. Never again with the Duratracs.
Drop this in the base truck, no gadgets, single cab long bed, give me a/c, PW, PL, and an auto, and I'd give $22k and my '92 Toyota pickup for the deal. Take rate may be 30-40%. And I'm still dreaming...
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