AlanK

Check the wires at both connectors for damage or possibly a pushed pin in the conector.

That's true. Process: " ... put hardware bag in shipping box" - check " ... is it the right hardware?" -skip to next step " ... ship box" - check

Check for bent pins in the connectors as well.

Sounds like you need a voltmeter to trace the circuit. With a voltmeter make sure you get voltage at the input of the switch from the fuse. Activate switch and check for voltage after switch. If OK, check for voltage at motor with switch activated. Check the ground as well for continuity.

Exactly. If both side of the bar (wheel side) move in the same direction and deflection there is no reverse torque applied to the chassis. So other than friction from the bushings there is no effect. The bushing friction is truly minor. If the bar ends move in opposite direction, then a torque is applied to the chassis in the reverse direction to "flatten" out the ride and keep the chassis/body from twisting.

Same here on my Tahoe. Ended up replacing all four door switches over time. Switches seemed to be the weak point not the wiring harness.

I did notice a little stiffer ride on the bumpy roads. But nothing harsh, terrible or objectionable. Truck overall seems more stable to me. Hard to quantify.

OK. Thanks. I went to town and my truck was able to download and do the install. I think it just needed better cell service and 15 minutes of "off" time.

My '23 Silverado has been nagging me for few weeks to do a software update. Several times I have given permission to proceed. But the update has always stopped with a "postponed" message. Where I park, cell service is very poor. Verizon is 0-1 bar at best. GM uses some type of "Over The Air" service for the updates. Is this a cell phone like connection that uses existing cell networks (Verizon, ATT, etc.)? Does OnStar use the same carrier service? Just wondering what the truck needs to do the update? Has anyone linked their truck to say a mesh network to get better access to service updates?

Just installed the Hellwig rear sway bar (#7780) on my '23 Silverado. Set the bar at the lowest setting (outer hole) for starters. Noticed the improvement immediately! Truck has much less sway taking corners. It also feels more "planted" taking corners. I don't have any cloverleafs near me but the 90 and 180 turns I did felt a lot less challenging and the truck had a lot less sway taking the corners. I like it. Gives a feeling of more confidence taking corners. Recommended. Also noted several others posted about the parts bag being wrong. So it wasn't a fluke with mine. Hardware store trip was required.

Good luck trying to pull more than a few amps from the USB ports. You are wattage limited.

Trailer was a 6x12 covered trailer (2 doors). Pads on the Tahoe were not OEM at the time. Probably more like Autozone. Grade was more severe - it was not interstate. I know when I pressed the brake expecting to slow down I did not. Downshifted to slow down. Had this happen on two other occasions (not with the Tahoe) - coming down Pikes Peake CO in a Delta 88 and auto-crossing on the track with a corvette.

Trailer was full of gear and I had another scout master and three scouts on board. Long sweeping down hill grade about 5 miles and a few tight turns along the way into the valley. I geared down to use engine braking and let the brakes cool.

I put a Z36 on my 2007 Tahoe. You have not felt fear until experiencing brake fade pulling a boy scout camping trailer through the mountains of WV. Z36 improved the braking and eliminated the fade.

Not installed yet. Been too cold and windy last few days. Warming up this weekend. Will report back.

I used this MOM switch mounted in the bolt hole where the post for a rack would be inserted. No drilling needed. I did use two stainless steel washers to cover the entire hole. You can also tap the ground on the existing cargo lights to run one less wire. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09BKWMNJ9?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1 73, N1WV

Looks like pin 19 on BCM. You are adding a momentary contact switch in parallel in the bed to duplicate the cargo switch function. What's nice is it keeps the 10 minute timeout to automatically turn off the lights if you forget. Push on. Push off. Sweet.

I used pin 4 on the headlight switch in the dash. Easier to get to than me crawling under the dash to get to the BCM. Here is the schematic info for both sides - headlight switch in dash and BCM under dash.

I did not contact them. I bought the sway bar off of Amazon for free shipping. The box looked good on arrival. Well packaged. Hardware was in a heat sealed plastic bag. Looked like the plastic bag was original. But, you are right, it could have been a return and not Hellwig's fault at all.

Just got the Hellwig rear sway bar (#7780) for my '23 Silverado. Bar and adapter plates all look good. Nice welds and powder coating. However, Attaching bolts were messed up. Some bolts too short and bolts were 1/2-13 thread with 1/2-20 thread nuts. It's like they threw in the bag what ever they had in bin. Anyway, $22 later at Ace hardware I go the right length bolts and thread pitch for the install. A little disappointed a mature ISO-9001 company like this makes such a basic error. Will comment back later after install.

Added Cargo Bed LED strip lights and a Trailer Spoof circuit to my '23. Used the headlight switch wire described by DasGoob above. Works great. It was easy to get to the cargo bed switch wire in the dash. It took more time to run it under the truck. Still easier for me than trying to access the BCM under the dash. Strip LEDs are from amazon. They are mounted on the underside of my bed cover rails (aluminum) using double sided tape and Lexel caulk (Lowe's) to seal the deal. No drilling needed. Trailer spoof is to turn on the left and right turn signal cams. I like seeing what is beside me before changing lanes. Turn off switch also included. Resistors draw enough current for the BCM to think a trailer is attached. Diodes are to keep the circuits isolated. Used similar switches in the bed (12mm diam) as above and they fit nicely in the bed stake bolt holes on left and right fender sides with a few stainless steel washers. Thanks to all in this thread. Difference is night and day! See on and off pics.

Congrats on the install! Pictures? Agree on the back contortions. Doing it for ~50 yrs has taken a toll. Not easy anymore to "just crawl under the dash" or "snake down the firewall". Any installs with these directions are becoming non-starters for me.

I did buy the '23 used so maybe previous owner did install an eliminator. I am happy they did! Everything else seems to work just fine.

I watched the video. Cool. For now my '23 remembers the previous setting which is "off". Side note, I also hate pulling body panels apart to install things. I always seems to break a tab or two.

Nice! Looks like you have the same weather as in Va.