georgecdisc

I thought it operated as such: Truck off = batteries isolated Truck on = batteries isolated Truck running = batteries connected 100A fuse at isolator is so alternator can charge second battery (when truck running) 30A fuse at isolator goes to 12V+ of 7way trailer plug. I think this means you can drain your second battery with a camper and still start your truck with primary battery. I may be wrong, hoping someone else can back this claim. ...i did a little experimenting when wiring in my battery maintainer quick connects (one for each battery). My memory is foggy on those results.

https://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/241266-wheel-well-liners/

my brakes definitely don't have the bite I'm used to in my other cars and last truck. I'm wondering if it is due to brake pad material... something that lasts longer and can take heat. reminds me of my low dust pads on sports car, just don't have the stopping feel like stock brembo pads. my side by side oem pads lasted 2000 miles, they sucked for any sort of aggressive braking. tried cheaper aftermarket ones that were much better at stopping, but lasted maybe 500 miles. overall I'm not impressed with the braking, doesn't feel linear and takes quite a bit of effort. gotta wear the heavy boots. contrast that to a crossover suv I just put in Napa pads and rotors (ie nothing special) it sends you through the windshield with little force on brake pedal.

I'm a little confused how the rack is stressing the welds. is the portion of the rack normally over the cab as your picture shows? if so I can see how bumpy roads might cause that to act as a giant lever and act upon the front of bed. I've got a mesh backrack, but it is not load bearing except for its own weight. mainly there to prevent firewood from bouncing in bed thru the glass window. do you think this would cause similar issues dues to the stiffening (bed can't flex)? seems like stiffening would assist in keeping those welds from popping, but only to lateral loads not front to back.

I think I looked at the 7" B&W, believe the ground clearance was same as 8" weigh safe (I've removed this from my list of options already). what's the coupler height on your boat trailer when level?

im looking to get a new adjustable drop hitch. currently have a 0" drop hitch and own an equipment trailer with adjustable coupler. I have access to a utility trailer and want to get my own (small single axle) , coupler height around 15"+. my quick measurement on not so perfectly flat terrain is 23" to top of shank. I'm undecided between 6" and 8" drops. I want a buy-it-once hitch, but don't want limited ground clearance after truck sag on a loaded 14k lb trailer. fairly certain 10" would be obscene on a stock truck. truck is 100% stock 2020 gasser with 18" wheels (not sure if standard wheel/tire options changes ride height). anyone running trailers in this realm? 8" seems ideal for the range of normal tongue heights but I'm nervous about ground clearance. no plans to go offroading but I do see some rocky uneven terrain, or what I like to call make-shift "parking lots" in the sticks.

straight from my email confirmation: Order Summary VEHICLE 1: 2020 GMC Sierra 2500 HD Standard Cab Pickup Base 4WD Rear Wheelhousing Liner Set Part No.: 84496084 MSRP: $150.00 | Quantity: 1 | Delivery Method: Pickup at Dealer - No Additional cost

I had to order mine, were on backorder for a few weeks at the time part # 84496084

On my '98 Silverado the mounting surface below the sensor began to corrode, causing the sensor to lift. It only lifted like a millimeter, but enough that the sensors would have issues reading. I never had an ABS light go on, but I had issues at stopping speed where my ABS would go off (pulsating pedal). This was because my front sensors could not get a good reading, didn't match with the rear wheel speed, thus a time ABS should engage. I used a wire brush to clean up the mounting surfaces, worked like a charm! Before doing this I put in a paper towel to the hole to plug it up so debris wouldn't go inside it.

Not sure if this pertains to your vehicle or not: Parking Brake Cable Adjuster Enabling If the park brake automatic adjuster has been disabled, the following two person procedure must be performed. -Hold the park brake pedal in the FULL upward position. -Pull rearward on the front park brake cable until the tension is released from the scribe or nail (1) installed through the holes in the pedal assembly. -Remove the scribe or screwdriver (1). -Slowly release the park brake cable until it returns to its original position. -Release the park brake pedal. -Lower the vehicle. -Apply and release the park brake pedal to ensure that there is no binding or sticking.

I think the brake is auto adjusting on the pedal itself. Someone correct me if I am wrong.