Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About rjdjbd

  • Rank
  1. My answer would have to be 'no'. My 2003 Suburban (81k miles) is on its fourth intermediate shaft, failing on average every 15k miles. Last one, Chevrolet would not warranty or pay any of the costs. Changed it out myself but what a PITA and not sure that I'll want to do it again.
  2. I'm replacing the rotors and pads on my 2003 Suburban this weekend, but I can say that I've got 90k miles on my original 'junker' OEM pads. The vehicle is 13 years old and getting its first set of replacement brakes.
  3. Thanks for the reply. Is there an easy way to check for the issue, or does the alternator just need to be replaced? I'm not having any charging, starting, battery or electrical issues, other than 'dirty' noise through the radio. Turn off the radio and all sounds good.
  4. I've recently acquired a radio whine that is engine RPM related, and thought I'd check the radio ground. Could someone tell me specifically where the radio ground is? Thank you
  5. Further proof that eBay seller autoandart sucks the it comes to sending out the correct parts, and then makes the buyer pay the full price to return.
  6. Maybe; California vehicle that was purchased out of dealer stock brand-new in 2003. After I discovered the OEM wiring and knew what to verify, I found plenty of mirrors with the longer wiring harness. And the 6" wiring harness only has one plug, but my OEM mirrors has two plugs, and both connect inside the door panel under the switch assembly near the door pull. You can't plug into those plugs with only a 6" wiring harness and only one plug. Must be a completely different wiring system in other Suburbans compared to mine. Also, I note that a couple of YouTube videos showed the plug-in connections right where mine are, so again, you can't get there with only 6" of wiring from the mirror. Anyway, hopefully my experience will help someone else down the road.
  7. Some time back, I had a bad experience with an eBay seller (autoandart / Auto and Art) that sold me a set of new mirrors for my Suburban. My model is an LS and the mirrors are only powered, with no other features, such as being heated, auto-dimming, puddle lamps or turn signals. I bought powered mirrors that based on their fitment guide, should have worked. But when I got them and took off my door panel, I discovered that the OEM mirrors had a 23" long wiring harness and two ten-pin plugs, one blue, one black. The replacement mirrors from autoandart had a 6" long wiring harness and only one black plug of a different style. Went back and forth with the seller, feeling that they in fact sent me the wrong mirrors, but they insisted they were the correct mirrors (impossible!) and was finally able to return them for a refund, but I had to pay the return shipping, which was about half of the original cost of the mirrors. eBay seller AutoAndArt screwed me, plain and simple. Gave up on the whole project but recently decided to try again, ordering mirrors from a different eBay seller. (Car Parts Wholesale, Kool Vue Mirrors) Ah ha! These mirrors have a 23" long wiring harness with two plugs, just like OEM. These mirrors are 'heated', just like the original set I ordered from eBay, even though my Suburban didn't have that feature on the OEM's. Install went perfectly and the power-feature of the mirrors works like it is supposed to. The 'heated' feature of the mirror is turned on by using the rear defroster, but the weather now is too warm to check that out. I'm assuming that the replacement mirrors will not heat up, guessing that my Suburban doesn't have the proper wiring from the wiring harness to the mirror plugs, and I'm okay with that. The point of my post is to let everyone know that there are mirrors out there with the wrong wiring harness and plugs that some sellers will claim will fit and work properly. But you can't plug a mirror wiring harness 6" long into a plug outlet that's 23" away and you can't morph one mirror plug into two! Also, I learned something that I didn't find when searching the forums and YouTube before starting the project... once you disconnect the wiring harness from the passenger door panel, it takes out remote access from the key FOB, takes out the power window from the drivers' side switch, interior lights and the power door locks when you put the transmission in drive. (If you use that feature.)
  8. I'm getting ready to order brake parts for my 2003 Suburban LS 1500 four-wheel drive and priced out the necessary (Ultra-Premium Series) parts at a NAPA auto parts store. But since they are not really a bargin, I decided to price everything out using AC Delco parts. I have a subscription to All-Data but when I tried finding the correct parts using the OEM part numbers from All-Data, everything was coming back as 'item not found'. Presumably, all the part numbers have been superseded but my subscription to All-Data is a current one and it seems that the numbers should be accurate. Anyone have the part numbers available, or a web-site source that I can get the appropriate part numbers from? Looking for: OEM front rotors OEM rear rotors OEM front pads OEM rear pads OEM Parking Brake Shoe Kit OEM front & rear pad hardware kits Thank you.
  9. I'm looking to see if anyone has a picture of a 2003 Suburban LS / Tahoe LS Power Mirror (No heat / no puddle lamp / no turn-signal) wiring colors as it goes into the plug or knows how many wires and the colors that are used for this specific mirror. (Powered mirror only, no other features.) Thank you
  10. I have a 2003 Suburban that I need to remove the door panels to gain access and unplug the exterior mirror electrical plug. I've watched seven different YouTube videos on the subject and all demonstrate the same way to remove the power window and door lock switch panel. I'm supposed to be able to simply pull up from the outer leading edge, lifting that edge towards the door. Doesn't work. It breaks free near the door-pull but not at the top-section. What little I can see when I lift up is that the clip is in the middle of the assembly, not along the leading edge, but that clip may bed to remove all the switches from the housing. No matter how hard I try to pull up, it won't disengage and I even tried to use a large flat-head screw driver to the point I know it was close to breaking. Any ideas? Thank you.
  11. Thank you for your help and information.
  12. What RPO codes would I look for regarding transfer case? Not sure what I have, other than push-button four-wheel drive with a neutral for the transfer case on a K1500 chassis with the 5.3L.
  13. I have a 2003 Suburban K-1500 LS and would like to change out all the fluids / lubricants to the front axle, rear axle, and transmission. What RPO codes or information can I post to get the most current recommendations for fluid-types and quantity. Also, is there a separate fluid for the transfer-case? Thank you
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.