Jump to content

ChevMech

Member
  • Posts

    90
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About ChevMech

  • Birthday 01/03/1990

Profile Information

  • Location
    Victoria, TX
  • Gender
    Male
  • Drives
    2009 Silverado 2500HD

Recent Profile Visitors

4,023 profile views

ChevMech's Achievements

Enthusiast

Enthusiast (3/11)

9

Reputation

  1. You may reach out to The Seat Shop. I ran across them by accident a few weeks back. They may be able to put something together for you. Search "The Seat Shop" on Facebook. Good luck!
  2. Not to hijack this post, but I'm having a similar issue on my '97 C1500 2WD 4.3l. When you get above about 65, the truck starts to buck like it has a misfire. The other odd thing is that the speedometer is reading about 10 mph too fast. For what it's worth, the cruise control doesn't work either. Do these symptoms point to the cluster being bad? Before we go any further, the tires are the correct size, the gearing has not changed, and the shifting is like it should be. This seems to eliminate the need for a VSS....at least from what I've read.
  3. No, they don't fit. I had a buddy take a pair of tow mirrors off of his 2016 GMC (it was a half ton and he was going back to factory) and he gave them to me for my 2009 3/4 ton. If they fit, I would buy them. Anyway, the bolt pattern on the new mirrors, along with the general footprint, was much larger. Go to boostautoparts.com. They have a bolt-on new-style tow mirror with all the the instruction how to make them work.
  4. LMC Truck was the first place I looked. I was profoundly disappointed by their lack of selection. They only had a cover for a straight bench seat. There was nothing for the split bench, or even buckets. I'm going to start browsing classifieds, but I may just wind up taking it to an upholstery shop, like you said.
  5. Ladies and gentlemen of the internet, As the title line suggests, last weekend I picked up a 1997 Chevrolet Cheyenne extended cab, short bed. With only 95k miles on the clock it was too good of deal to pass up. The school district that had it since new seems like they took relatively good care of it. The paint is sun damaged (we'll get to that later), and the driver's seat is shot from 23 years of people sliding in and out of it. And like most GM trucks of this era, the headliner is shot. The rest of the seats are in almost factory new condition. Anyway, back to the question at hand. Does anyone on this forum know of a supplier for reproduction foam and seat covers? The truck has the basic "work truck" cloth seats, but I'm not opposed to upgrading them to the "premium" upholstery. Also, is there an online supplier you guys have used for the materials needed to refurbish the headliner? Like always, any opinions or suggestions are open to discussion with me. Thank you in advance!
  6. I would advise against it. The EMPTY weight of the travel trailer is 7,000 lbs. That's not factoring in water (fresh, gray, and black), and all the gear that will accumulate in the camper, not to mention the people that will probably be traveling with you. In theory, yes, the truck will pull it. The issue is stopping. A half ton does not have the braking capacity or the weight to stop what you're looking to put behind it. You will be better off looking for a lighter trailer or a heavier truck.
  7. As I mentioned on another thread, I have not have backup lights on my '09 Silverado for about 2 years now. I finally replaced the fuse panel, and now everything is working as it should. I still would like to have a switch to turn on the backup lights on my truck when it is not in reverse to hook up trailers, etc. Will it do any harm to fuse-tap the backup light fuse on the panel?
  8. Hello all, I wanted to follow up with everyone about my progress with the aforementioned problems I've been having. This past weekend I stopped by the local parts store and purchased a can of carb cleaner and a can of mass air flow sensor cleaner. I disconnected the batter (to reset the ecm), cleaned the MAF and throttle body. It's hard to say how bad the MAF was, but the throttle body was gummed up pretty bad. I put everything back together and now it seems like the truck has a little more power. What I wasn't expecting is how quiet the engine is under load. Before, it had a pretty audible roar. Now, its much quieter. We'll see how this, combined with a can of Seafoam in the gas, will improve performance.
  9. The check engine light has not come on. I did notice a slight power increase when I replaced the filter, but that was because the other one was insanely plugged. My next step is to do a compression test, and while I have the plugs out, I'm going to pressurize the cylinders to see if I can hear anything in the intake, exhaust, or crankcase. I don't have a leak-down kit, but I'm sure I'll get one since I'm going to have it so far down. Another thing I failed to mentioned is the loud ticking. I've read that these engines are prone to that to begin with, so I've haven't paid it any mind. Everything mentioned above could be causing this now that I'm thinking about it more.....
  10. You do bring up a good point. My apologies for omitting that information. The truck has 135k on the clock. Judging by the CarFax and the amount of oil changes it had a different dealerships in different parts of the county, it has primarily highway miles with regular service. Since I've had it, I've followed a similar patter. Back in December of 2015 I installed a set factory replacement AC Delco plugs and wires. They are gapped to spec. Recently, I installed a K&N air filter. Other than a wheel bearing, I have had no major issues with this vehicle.
  11. As the title implies, I'm having the same problem a lot of people with the GM 6.0 liter have: my truck has no power. I've read extensively online, and I've seen where you can add a performance chip or modified exhaust or intake and you will free some horses. I'm thinking this is more a current failure than it is an aftermarket performance upgrade desire. In the past 6 months, I've noticed my 2009 2500 HD has absolutely no power. It is gear hunting at 75 mph at 2000 rpm with no headwind. I know these are big heavy trucks, but how are you supposed to effectively tow with them if they fall on their face under their own weight? About the same time, I noticed there is now a "catch" in the idle while you're waiting at an intersection or drive through. Could the two be related? Not too long ago, I used my company's 16ft enclosed equipment trailer to move a 350lb machine. The truck would not hold a gear, and I could almost literally watch the fuel gauge zip towards the E. Not long after, I began working with another individual that pulls a similar trailer loaded with equipment constantly with an F-150 with an EcoBoost. My first thought is I would have to forfeit eating to pay for fuel if I had to tow that much with my "HD", while they're getting moving right along down the highway with ease in a much lighter duty truck. and getting much better fuel economy. I was forewarned before I bought the truck that 6.0L were fuel hogs, but I at least expected to have the power to justify it. All of that being said, does anyone have any idea where I should start? I'm not looking to win a pull or race, just be able to use my truck for what it was designed to do.
  12. Just a quick update: I found the problem with my faulty reverse lights: the relay under the fuse panel is blown. I borrowed the fuse panel out of my parents' Tahoe and everything worked as it should. While I was looking for a replacement (let me know if you have one) I found that this is a really really really common problem on GM trucks of this generation. I read that the ground strap from the firewall to the engine cracks/breaks causing power surges of sorts. The most obvious of symptoms: the relay for the backup lights fails. The solution: replace the strap or add a ground wire. For what it's worth, I'm thinking adding the wire will fix the blinking the headlights do when I hit a bump too hard.
  13. So let’s say it is the relay, what’s the next step?
  14. This is going to be my project for this weekend, so I'm going to take a tester to everything that may or may not be related to the backup light circuit. My next question, where is the back-up light switch located on the transmission? I'm not seeing a switch designed for this function on any parts websites. A Google search shows two thing: either one that threads in, or the neutral safety switch.
  15. Okay guys, It's been a long time since I've posted, but I'm having a little bit of a problem. My 2009 2500HD gas has no back-up light. None, nada, zip....nothing. I have run a hot wire to the fuse and they light up, so i know the wiring to the back and the bulbs and sockets are working. They don't, however, turn on when you put the truck into reverse, or when the rest of the perimeter lighting is engaged. I also have nothing on the trailer circuit. Besides running that jumper wire, I have done nothing but check the fuses, and despite what the google machine says, there is no relay on this one. Is there a common failure on these trucks that would cause this problem?
  • Forum Statistics

    245.8k
    Total Topics
    2.6m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    333,236
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Lightning123
    Newest Member
    Lightning123
    Joined
  • Who's Online   3 Members, 0 Anonymous, 766 Guests (See full list)

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.