Jump to content

minibike132

Member
  • Posts

    1,720
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://

Profile Information

  • Location
    Northern Illinois
  • Gender
    Male

Recent Profile Visitors

7,121 profile views

minibike132's Achievements

Senior Enthusiast

Senior Enthusiast (9/11)

4

Reputation

  1.  I'm new to this site and just registered. I think I'm having a problem with a bcm on my 2009 Montana van. I see from an old thread that it appears you are quite knowledgeable on this topic. Is it kosher to ask for your help with my problem even though this is basically GM truck blog?

     

    I'm not even sure how to look for an answer from you but hopefully if you answer I will be able to find your response.  

  2. The fact that it will throw error codes is the reason the EPA mandated the thermostatic plugs. But the reason it will throw error codes is because the start up perameters are EPA mandated as well. If the vehicle off time has been many hours (say all night) and the air intake temp sensor reads -10 but the coolant sensor reads +70 then the PCM thinks there must be an issue with one or the other sensors or their circuits. This causes the PCM to default injector pulse widths and ignition timing to something other then what is optimal for the ambient temp untill the vehicle reaches closed loop. I would think this could be done by manufacturers if they monitored the block heater current and made adjustments in the PCM if the heater were working prior to startup. That sounds like it would take some money and I don't know of a manufacturer that does this yet. I also don't know if the EPA law would allow it.
  3. Over fueling causes raw fuel instead of just vapor into the canister. Once saturated the canister starts to break down and will send it's insides anywhere it can go. During venting they will travel to the vent valve. It is not fuel that effects the valve it is the broken down canister that causes the issues. That said you are correct, over filling has little effect on the valve becuase a saturated canister usually forces people to have the system repaired before the vent becomes an issue.
  4. I'm just following the diagnostic procedure in my repair manual. It says the bcm is the Power Mode Master (PMM) and controls all other modules including the pcm (on my truck anyway). I think your manual is for a newer vehicle, power mode mastering was not used on chevy trucks till 05-06. The wiring diagrams show there is no direct link between the pcm and the diagnostic link connector, it shows the pcm connects directly to the bcm which then connects to the dlc. That is the second clue that the manual is wrong. The diagram should show the bcm and pcm in a loop to a splice pack then to the dlc. The way your truck should be wired is that the bcm and pcm are wired togeather then they have independant circuits back to the dlc so that either module can communicate with the scan tool independant of the other. The bcm is what receives the ignition switch signal and sends out the signals to all other modules to activate. So if the bcm is dead and sends no signal to anything, the truck would not start. Which means the bcm is what is preventing my truck from starting - according to my repair manual. Again on an 07 this would be true but not on an 03. The truck will not start without the bcm because of the security but it does not send out the on signal for the other modules like a new one would. Believe me, I've been all over this truck checking things and testing. At this point my next step is to replace the bcm. But, I need to know about programming the replacement bcm as I asked above to know what to expect. I have three possible scenarios: All that said if you still want to go with the bcm I'll tell you what I know. You could get lucky and need the bcm but I wouldn't put money on it (which you are). 1)I buy a new replacement bcm from my gm dealer, install it, start the truck and drive it to the dealer for programming. You could do this, you will have to program the security code first. Then drive it in to have the RPO's programmed in the BCM. 1 Turn ON the ignition, with the engine OFF. 2 Attempt to start the engine, then release the key to ON; the vehicle will not start. 3 Observe the SECURITY telltale; after approximately 10 minutes the telltale will turn OFF. 4 Turn OFF the ignition, and wait 5 seconds. 5 Repeat steps 1 through 4 two more times for a total of 3 cycles/30 minutes; the vehicle is now ready to relearn the Passlock Sensor Data Code and/or passwords on the next ignition switch transition from OFF to CRANK. Important: The vehicle learns the Passlock Sensor Data Code and/or password on the next ignition switch transition from OFF to CRANK. You must turn the ignition OFF before attempting to start the vehicle. Start the engine. The vehicle has now learned the Passlock Sensor Data Code and/or password. With a scan tool, clear any DTCs, if needed. History DTCs will self clear after 100 ignition cycles. 2)I buy a new replacement bcm from my gm dealer, install it, the truck won't start, I have it towed to the dealer for programming. Follow the above and you should be able to drive it in. 3)I buy a used replacement bcm from the salvage yard, install it, start the truck and drive it to the dealer for programming. You can try this and try the above but I wouldn't know if it would work or not. All year, make and model bcm's are a little different and without trying this on your particular make and model. If you can get the security to work the RPO's might not be able to be programmed, it's really just trial and error with this method. I'm just looking for info from someone who knows for sure which of those scenarios is realistic. Thanks again
  5. I just wanted to say that when my evap solenoid (p0449) went bad I found this very post, and I am so thankful that I did. I went to my stealership handed the attendant a paper with the part number you mentioned. He ofcourse tried to sell me the $150.00 kit, but I declined. Changed the part and saved myself $120.00. Hopefully that will cover the ticket I got for out of date inspection. I only have 2 problems with this. 1 They are not lying when they tell you that at the dealer. They look up the part for the vehicle that you ask for and that is the one that comes up. The parts guy has no way of knowing the difference between the parts weather they are the same or different. 2 valves don't fail from overfilling, canisters do which can kill a valve but if the canister wasn't garbage too then the valve failed from another reason. The most common reason for them to fail is placement. GM only lists the re-located version because if it fails due to location in a year they have to warranty the part. That said I would use the old part and take my chances. BUT if it failed I wouldn't expect them to pay for another one.
  6. Overfilling the vehicle does not effect the vent valve, it saturates the canister. It will not happen the first time it is done, hundreds of overfills is usually what does it. As a general rule don't overfill but again it didn't do the valve in. Hey your awesome thanks for the quick answer. So i guess the canister will dry out as long as I stop filling it up to much. I haven't filled it up since I replaced the part, tanks still full. Incorrect info.....read my posts on this topic....Overfilling or topping off is not saturating the cannister...You can take the cannister apart and see for yourself......The gas is damaging the soleonoid just enough to not send the correct voltage reading back to your truck's computer, thus throwing the P0449 code. The soleonoid is actually still operating just fine when this happens, but the gasoline is messing up the electrical voltage the computer is reading, and using it as a measurement to whether the part is functioning correctly....Drying it out will not help, as it permenatly damages the solenoid as far as the electric current going through it, and back to the computer..... You can fill your tank up, just stop after the first time the gas nozzle shuts off....Dont try to squeeze that extra little bit into the tank to get to the next even dollar, as this is where the problem starts......When the nozzle clicks off, tank is full........Hang up the hose, and go on your way......trying to put more in, will send gas into the hose, and onto the solenoid, and short it out again...... Who has incorrect info? Overfilling does saturate the canister I have cut open plenty of them. Gas cannot possibly effect the electrical feed back of the vent circuit, the two are isolated. He was told that there is an electrical issue and is most likely the valve, not that the canister is the issue. Read it then read it again, you have a pretty good grip on the issue but not good enough to call me out as wrong.
  7. Overfilling the vehicle does not effect the vent valve, it saturates the canister. It will not happen the first time it is done, hundreds of overfills is usually what does it. As a general rule don't overfill but again it didn't do the valve in.
  8. It is disabled to prevent compressor dammage from the viscosity of the oil being too thick to adequately lubricate at low temperatures.
  9. They don't supply it because not every hose will be the same length. This is nothing new though, it gets pretty irritating to get an egr valve with no gasket or hubs with no bolts when the manual states they should be replaced everytime they are removed. I feel your pain.
  10. It's in between the cab and the bed on the bed side all the way at the bottom left (driver side)just above the frame rail. Search is your friend there are pictures here somewhere. Welcome to the site.
  11. Yawn, I love these conspiracy threads. The op states This sounds like a cover my ass warning. The person you talked to was probably a writer and they usually have about as much technical knowledge as a two year old has walking experience. The fact is a C0327 can be traced to a sensor, switch, motor and about 15 different ciucuits some of which don't even show up in the diagram, trust me I've been very surprised to find the ground terminal at the transmission connector (the one that goes directly into the case for the internal switches) being slightly spread out causing the code in one instance and even after knowing where I found the problem it was hard to back track and explain. That code is pretty vague, it's kind of like having a code that states the engine doesn't start. All the code means is the transfer case didn't do what it was supposed to do. Thats a pretty hard thing to guess at when you can't make it happen. Experience says it could be tons of things but it's usually the sensor or motor. Experience also says which ever one I sell, if I was not able to verify and diagnose the problem, it will be the other one and the customer will not be happy. Experience also says if I tell 100 customers I couldn't reproduce their problem so whatever I do is a guess that 90 are going to be pissed. This gets lost in translation between the tech, the writer and the consumer. There are a ton of things you can do to check for intermittants but the question is who is going to pay for it because alot of times you can do over the top testing on a circuit that isn't currently malfunctioning and not come up with anything at all.
  12. Nice you sound like me. When there is something broke around the house and I'm pretty sure it's going to get replaced anyway I'll F with it for hours just checking out how it works and seeing what happened. My girlfriend always says "you know for what you make an hour you could have went to work and bought 2 of that thing your messing with". Well what fun is that and what will I learn. Funny thing is I've probably replaced a thousand vent valves and never messed with one aside from looking into the exhaust port. Guess I'm not that curious at work.
  13. Slim to none but there is an updated part and a kit to move it to an area that isn't as likely to get plugged up. I sent you to a thread with the bulliten on my 3rd post go check out that thread. Again I'm feeling a little stupid because I just don't know I never really paid attention and It has never caused me any troubles. Good luck to you on the fix.
  14. If it's an L59 you can throw everything I said out the window and call me an idiot, Ill be over here in the corner sucking my thumb. Just do me a small favor and disconnect that canister line and tell me what happens.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.